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T100 manual hub swap HELP!

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Old 03-14-2017, 12:18 PM   #1
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T100 manual hub swap HELP!

So i scrounged up some manual hubs for my T100 until i sas and slapped them on this weened but they wont disengage. if i loosen the cover screws for the dial and move it back about 1/8" when in the unlocked position it becomes free but it is just not quite disengaging enough.


any one else ever ran into this?any ideas of what to check?
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:47 PM   #2
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Hard to tell without looking at your hub assemblies in person, but I think it's possible to incorrectly assemble the hubs to where the spring and retainer won't permit the splined dog to come all the way free.

Also, are you sure that you have the correct hubs for your application??
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Old 03-14-2017, 03:01 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by millball View Post
Hard to tell without looking at your hub assemblies in person, but I think it's possible to incorrectly assemble the hubs to where the spring and retainer won't permit the splined dog to come all the way free.

Also, are you sure that you have the correct hubs for your application??
i never disassembled the splined outer hub gear from the retracting fork as they seemed to be the same side to side so i assumed they were right.

as for the right hub i only know of 3 toyota Asin manual hubs:

strait axle- 30 spline inner gear
IFS 86-95- 27 spline inner gear
tacoma 96+- whole body is different.

are their other variations i am not aware of? from what i understand from SA hubs and IFS hubs the only difference is the inner hub gear spline count right?
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:00 PM   #4
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Yes, as far as I know, the only difference in the SFA and IFS hubs is the different spline count on the locking piece.
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:23 PM   #5
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Subbed.

I have a T100, and a set of IFS manual hubs I plan to throw on it, so watching encase I run into the same thing.
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:24 AM   #6
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Well guys, I found the problem. I am hesitant to tell you because you are going to laugh but it was the gaskets. I had assembled the hubs with rtv in a hurry thinking that if it was sealed it would be fine. Wrong. Luckily I have a couple knuckle rebuild kits sitting in the garage and threw in new gaskets on both hubs and now both work perfectly. I did need the dial gasket and the gasket to put the hub body on the bearing hub. Those two gaskets spaced it out just far enough to work fine.
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:47 AM   #7
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Makes sense, the tolerances must be too tight for RTV in the manual hub assembly. Good thing to note when I go to do this. Wonder if RTV would be ok between the manual hub and bearing hub. The locker section would spin freely for sure, just not sure if the axle would hit the manual hub body or not (I'd think not).
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:06 PM   #8
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Makes sense, the tolerances must be too tight for RTV in the manual hub assembly. Good thing to note when I go to do this. Wonder if RTV would be ok between the manual hub and bearing hub. The locker section would spin freely for sure, just not sure if the axle would hit the manual hub body or not (I'd think not).
I tried that first, only putting in the hub dial gasket and the hub still clicked when driving unlocked. Threw in the bearing hub to locking hub gasket and it went away. I think the snap ring inside the hub gear was pushing the hub hear out just slightly making it just barely touch the clutch gear in the dial. Put on the bearing hub to locking hub gasket and it went away
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:08 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info, saves a lot of people a headache including myself
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