93-98 T100s All T100 trucks

1994 T100 RWD 3.0L Standard

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-15-2016, 06:07 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
thoslos's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question 1994 T100 RWD 3.0L Standard

I just bought this truck yesterday. Full specs:
1994 T100 DX Regular cab 8' bed
3.0L 3VZ-E V6
Standard, RWD
5000lb GVWR

- 1/2 ton? I think so, but I can't say for sure until I take it to a weigh station to get dry weight + me + fuel.

- If possible, I want to turn this thing into a 1-ton truck. What needs to be changed? I am assuming I'll need to upgrade the brakes and shocks, add leaf springs, and maybe upgrade the wheels and axles, but what else? Yes, I know a 3.0L V6 is under-powered by today's standards, but I drive like an old lady (the kind that drives slowly, not the crazy speed-demon kind).

- This truck will serve as a general daily driver, and on the weekends it will haul loads home so I can build my house, which is likely to be down some pretty rough roads. I take it pretty slow when I can and I'm not into off-roading as a hobby. Should I add some dead weight to the back for extra traction when I'm not hauling anything?

- Is it possible to modify the 3VZ-E to use a timing chain instead of a timing belt?

Currently this truck is out of commission - the shocks are about done, the brakes need some serious help, the speedometer doesn't work, the power steering is out, and the passenger side mirror is gone. Mileage is unknown, because the odometer is broken as well, sitting at something like 155k. Previous owner says it's WAY over that.

The synchronizers also feel like they're shot, and the shifter bushings are probably shot, too. The transmission and engine both feel healthy. There is probably an oil leak, but that's just an assumption, since I just bought it yesterday. I'm not sure about the timing belt yet, but at least the 3VZ-E is non-interference!

If there is anything in particular I need to check immediately or some glaring omission from my 'preliminary report', I would appreciate a heads-up!

I found a full FSM set for this truck on E-bay, and it should arrive here in a week or two. I'll be happy to look things up if anybody has OEM questions.

Thanks for any help! Links to previous posts are just fine. In the meantime I'll be searching the forums myself and accumulating info in this thread.

Wait! Also, is there any way to change the color scheme on this forum? The contrast is going to make me go blind!!!

Last edited by thoslos; 05-15-2016 at 06:11 AM.
Old 05-15-2016, 12:43 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
MudHippy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,106
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes on 20 Posts
1. How much it weighs has nothing to do with hauling capacity(whether it's 1 Ton or not).
2. GVWR of 5000lb. 4x2 with a V6 means it's a ½ Ton. 1 Ton is 6000lb. 4x4 is 5500lb.
3. Upgrade the rear axle and suspension to 1 Ton parts. Then it's a 1 Ton.
4. Timing chain? No way in hell. And you wouldn't want to if you could. Timing chains suck.
5. Odo doesn't work because the speedo doesn't work
6. Bottom left corner of the screen. Where it says "Yotatech Extreme sizeable fonts w/ mud". Change that. If you can. I can't make it work with Windows 10. IE or Edge.
Old 05-31-2016, 12:42 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
thoslos's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
1-3:
Looking back, I get what you're saying about weight having nothing to do with hauling capacity. However, I figured if I could get a number to subtract from its GVWR I'd know how much more it was rated to handle.
But yeah - I have a 1/2 ton model. Dang it. Speaking of which, it sounds like DX means it's a 1/2 ton truck, considering there is a model called '1-ton'...
From what I've found so far in terms of a conversion from 1/2 ton to 1 ton:
- Brakes will be larger (along with larger wheel cylinders)
- Master cylinder has a larger bore to accommodate the larger brakes
- Rear differential seems to have a different ratio, according to http://www.usedrearaxles.com/search/Toyota~T100/...but of course there are different ratios for ABS vs non-ABS, 4WD vs RWD, etc. And for V6 1-ton non-ABS RWD MT, which is what I'm hoping to move toward, there appear to be two different ratios, maybe for different engines. This is assuming the ratio is referring to the differential, of course. I'm over my head...
- more (or thicker?) leaf springs
- probably higher-capacity tires and maybe hubs, too. (maybe that just goes with the larger brakes)

So...I think I need to be content with simply reviving this 1/2 ton truck as factory self, and if/when I get to build a shop and decide to upgrade it I'll post a thorough write-up for anyone interested. For now, I just need a running truck. That long bed is quite simply fabulous and lovely! Why is nearly every truck these days a jacked-up, 4-door car with an open trunk?!

4: The only bad thing I've read about timing chains, aside from cheaping-out in recent years with lighter chains, is weird harmonics in the valves. A belt might be quieter and more efficient, but from what I've read the difference is so minor it really isn't a consideration. So what other issues make a belt better than a chain?

5: So it's probably the speed sensor/gear in the transmission, assuming the odometer gets its rotation from that same input. Or the cable housing has gone bad and it's frozen, or something like that. Not sure yet...

6: Yep...at first there were no other options, but now I've got a white screen with black text. I'm using Chrome on Windows 10, if you are interested in using Chrome.

I finally got my factory service manuals. I've been searching through methodically for distinctions between 1/2 ton and 1 ton models in the diagrams. I was hoping for part numbers, but I guess the FSM doesn't offer those. I wish I'd known that before I bought the manuals. The diagrams are pretty detailed, though, even if the books are kind of difficult to navigate. I've had better luck so far browsing parts online to see which parts are listed with distinctions made. Mainly this is just making me nervous, because some sites will say 'yep, this is the ONE for that model!' while other parts will offer parts with different specs for different models.

I miss my old truck, where the only differences were between 4WD and RWD, and parts were so limited that I just got lucky when the only part I could find would fit (with the exception of a pitman arm that turned out to be the wrong one three times in a row).

Does anyone have some recommendations for brake part brands? I'm replacing the master cylinder and all four wheel cylinders. The brake booster seems to be fine.

Last edited by thoslos; 05-31-2016 at 12:45 AM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gravel Maker
Vendor Advertising
10
05-18-2017 04:16 PM
'86 Xtra cab 4wd
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
05-01-2016 08:11 PM
Jungleman
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
2
04-21-2016 04:31 AM
Der_Mich
93-98 T100s
0
04-18-2016 08:48 PM



Quick Reply: 1994 T100 RWD 3.0L Standard



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:26 AM.