Bypassing window lock button
#1
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Bypassing window lock button
For a 1987 4runner
How do I bypass the button for the rear window lock? There are four wires in the connector and I'm not electrically intelligent to figure out how to pull this off. Me + Metal = good, Me + Electrical = BAD.....
Here is the connector that the switch plugs into....
One of these days I should try to understand electrical a little better, but it's just something that's always frustrated me.
How do I bypass the button for the rear window lock? There are four wires in the connector and I'm not electrically intelligent to figure out how to pull this off. Me + Metal = good, Me + Electrical = BAD.....
Here is the connector that the switch plugs into....
One of these days I should try to understand electrical a little better, but it's just something that's always frustrated me.
#2
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Is this that stupid of a question? I'm sure people have done this when moving the switches to the dash...... Guessing this one may be a trial and error sort of thing
#3
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My switch didn't work which caused the back window to not work, so I went to the junkyard and got a new window lock switch for $5
Never seen anyone bypass this before, maybe try cleaning out the connections inside the switch if yours is bad.
Never seen anyone bypass this before, maybe try cleaning out the connections inside the switch if yours is bad.
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It actually works just fine, I just want to get rid of it since I'm building a new console and trying to consolidate things. It seems pretty unnecessary to me but perhaps I'll just keep it.
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Yeah, I may just do that. Just figured I'd clean things up a bit while I was doing stuff. The original plan was to relocate the switches up to the two spots above the radio, hence the wanting to remove the Lock switch, but I'd have to extend the wires and I'm just not really wanting to go to that much effort, so I'll just leave them relatively where they're at and build a new console that'll work with my dual cases.
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#8
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I can't find my switch, but I'll walk you through what I did to figure it out, and it worked.
Carefully open the switch. I think I used two butter knives, one on each side. When you have the switch open, you will see the connections. IIRC, there are 2 wires in the middle (centered below the button) and 2 on the outside. It's the 2 wires in the middle that you want to tap together.
The reason you have to open up the switch is to discover which 2 wires are the magical ones. Then, make sure you find the corresponding wires on the vehicle end of the harness and tap them together.
WAIT. I have a pic in my build-thread, let me go find it.
Carefully open the switch. I think I used two butter knives, one on each side. When you have the switch open, you will see the connections. IIRC, there are 2 wires in the middle (centered below the button) and 2 on the outside. It's the 2 wires in the middle that you want to tap together.
The reason you have to open up the switch is to discover which 2 wires are the magical ones. Then, make sure you find the corresponding wires on the vehicle end of the harness and tap them together.
WAIT. I have a pic in my build-thread, let me go find it.
#13
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Haha, no problem!
And now that you have probably gone out and tapped those 2 wires together, let me give you a new suggestion.
Don't bother with them. Go find about 60' of wire, as small of a gauge as the stock wires, or in my case, 12, because it's all I had. And all this is to make your window switch perma-hot. So incase you walk out one day to get something out of the back and you forgot your keys on you, you don't have to go back for your keys.
If that interests you, I'll tell you every wire you need to work with and where to locate them.
And now that you have probably gone out and tapped those 2 wires together, let me give you a new suggestion.
Don't bother with them. Go find about 60' of wire, as small of a gauge as the stock wires, or in my case, 12, because it's all I had. And all this is to make your window switch perma-hot. So incase you walk out one day to get something out of the back and you forgot your keys on you, you don't have to go back for your keys.
If that interests you, I'll tell you every wire you need to work with and where to locate them.
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sorry I am out of my league here but just wanted to throw this out there.
Isn't part of this switchgear a safety feature engineered in to keep you from extending the window when the tailgate is down? Then the glass is not exposed to potential damage.
Perhaps I am not understanding this completely-but with electrical once you start to mess with it you introduce a whole host of un-necessary complications for little gain.
just my 2 cents...
Isn't part of this switchgear a safety feature engineered in to keep you from extending the window when the tailgate is down? Then the glass is not exposed to potential damage.
Perhaps I am not understanding this completely-but with electrical once you start to mess with it you introduce a whole host of un-necessary complications for little gain.
just my 2 cents...
#16
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sorry I am out of my league here but just wanted to throw this out there.
Isn't part of this switchgear a safety feature engineered in to keep you from extending the window when the tailgate is down? Then the glass is not exposed to potential damage.
Perhaps I am not understanding this completely-but with electrical once you start to mess with it you introduce a whole host of un-necessary complications for little gain.
just my 2 cents...
Isn't part of this switchgear a safety feature engineered in to keep you from extending the window when the tailgate is down? Then the glass is not exposed to potential damage.
Perhaps I am not understanding this completely-but with electrical once you start to mess with it you introduce a whole host of un-necessary complications for little gain.
just my 2 cents...
I hope I answered your guys' questions.
#18
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I believe the window lock is there to keep you from accidentally raising the rear window while you have the top off. With nothing to hold the sides of the window, I would imagine that the wind at highway speed could eject the window into the road. My lock switch was ruined by, I'm guessing, several spilled drinks over the years. From Toyota, that switch is like $90 if I remember right. I did the bypass on mine and put a generic, marine up down momentary switch to replace my bad window up down switch. It worked out just fine. I have some extra rocker switches so then next time I pull the console, I think I'm going to put one in there between the blue wires. I pull the top off mine a lot so it would be nice to have that switch working and matching switches would clean up the look of the switch panel.
#20
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My window will go up with the top off. I did some reading to figure out how that safety switch worked and it said that one of the bolts is different and when it is in all the way it closes the circuit. All of my bolts are the same so I guess someone before me lost the magic bolt and when the window wouldn't work anymore, they wired around the safety switch. It may have even been me that did it. I know the window didn't work when I got it and I can't remember what all I did to fix it. I think I'll go back in there and fix it right. Thanks for sir.