drews256

Ok so my truck a 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 with a 3vze that has 190 thousand miles on it is not starting.

I have in the last six months of owning the truck replaced head gaskets, alternator, valve cover gaskets (x2), ignition lock, 80A fusible link, starter relay, spark plugs and wires.

I went to start my truck and I get nothing. I faint pop noise, which I think are relays (in fact I can feel all of the relays engaging).

I can run the starter by running 12V straight to the starter and get the starter to run just fine. When hooking up the same battery that I just used to run the starter and turning the key to start nothing happens. My voltage drops to about 1.35 volts and that is from all the way behind the ignition lock and all the way to the starter on the black/white cables. I can confirm that my relay is working and all of my fuses are good. I am also getting the same 1.35 volts at the starter, so I don't think it is a wiring issue.

The battery did fail the "test" at oreilly's when I took it in. But it was starting earlier in the day just fine. As well turning my starter with no issue today.

Does anyone have any idea what I should be looking for? Or the next things to check? I am lost and tired to throwing money at things I am not 100% certain about.

Odin

1.35V? That sounds like you have high resistance somewhere in the wiring circuit.
Could be bad grounds, corroded connectors, a corroded or cut wire.

drews256

I would agree with that, I replaced the ignition. And now I have decide that rather than chase gremlins for days, I think I'm going to just rewire it. I know I will be bypassing a relay or two, but I'm tired of chasing.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

like Odin said x3

Just what part of the ignition switch did you replace the electrical or mechanical.

If your battery failed the test it should give you a place to start .

Just how old is the battery ??

It is quite possible the battery fails to hold a charge after it sits for a period of time.

Issues with the clutch safety circuit can cause frustration as well.

drews256

I replaced the mechanical, as it is 24 years old, I figured it was time anyways and I was using a key that wasn't even the correct key for the ignition.

I tried to remove the electrical and I could figure out how to get it off. Any tips?

I know it sounds like a battery problem, but I can through a different (newer, charged) battery on there with the same issues as well as use the battery to connect the starter and get the starter to spin.

I have been told to check my grounds, the starter is grounded to the frame via its being bolted to the frame right? Is there a chance I'm shorting one of the positive cables to the starter?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

No the starter is grounded via the engine block bell housing if it was grounded via the frame it needs to go through the engine mounts and The Trans mounts .

Ground in Wrong location ???

I always run three main grounds one to the inner fender one to the engine block and one to the frame out of habit. From years of wiring trailer plugs to give a good ground at the rear of the truck /Vehicle

If you had a positive wire shorted you would have a open fuse or a wire melted till it was no longer able to conduct or on a first name basis with the fire fighters keeping your melted truck from burning anything else.

Have you given any thought to the contacts or brushes in the starter being a problem going direct to the starter may just give oit enough of voltage to make a difference.