Trail-Gear sliders $140 shipped
#22
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#23
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I would think a Trail Gear distriubtor/shop would be able to do it for pretty cheap since you are already giving them money. There are a LOT of TG distributors now
#24
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$300 is insane, you need to look into local clubs or ask for assistance, i'm only 1 1/2 hrs away from you and would have welded for free, or a box of chocolate chip teddy ghrams.
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I'd definitely say look for a local wheeling club. Aside from the tacking/welding. I installed my sliders by myself.
Last edited by Djlarroc; 06-04-2008 at 03:51 PM.
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#29
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I ordered them two days ago and they already came! Super fast shipping, and its free! I got them sliders for $130, then another $24 for the gusset kit. I spoke to the guy over the phone too, he was really helpful. Anyways, just letting people know that it was a pretty good deal. now I gotta get to installing them...
#30
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i have the TG sliders in my garage for about 8 months now, and it's still in the box. weld-on slider installation is something you want to do it once and do it right. from what i'm reading it's a 3-step process, first is to messure, cut, prep frame and tack weld. next is to take out, weld the scab, legs to the slider body, prep, paint, let the paint set and cure(in some cases, multiple times). 3rd would be final fitting, tag, weld the scab to the frame, touch up paint. it's not something you would go to the shop and have it done right a way.
i have seen someone paint their sliders with spray-on bedliner after it's welded, the finish was kinda messy, IMHO.
i have a Millermatic 250 welder, i'd like to weld it myself, but there are 2 things scared me off. first, quality of the weld, i'm just not that confident about my overhead welding skills. second, the placement is very critical, putting it on at the wrong place at the wrong angle, it won't do you any good.
i have seen someone paint their sliders with spray-on bedliner after it's welded, the finish was kinda messy, IMHO.
i have a Millermatic 250 welder, i'd like to weld it myself, but there are 2 things scared me off. first, quality of the weld, i'm just not that confident about my overhead welding skills. second, the placement is very critical, putting it on at the wrong place at the wrong angle, it won't do you any good.
#33
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i have the TG sliders in my garage for about 8 months now, and it's still in the box. weld-on slider installation is something you want to do it once and do it right. from what i'm reading it's a 3-step process, first is to messure, cut, prep frame and tack weld. next is to take out, weld the scab, legs to the slider body, prep, paint, let the paint set and cure(in some cases, multiple times). 3rd would be final fitting, tag, weld the scab to the frame, touch up paint. it's not something you would go to the shop and have it done right a way.
i have seen someone paint their sliders with spray-on bedliner after it's welded, the finish was kinda messy, IMHO.
i have a Millermatic 250 welder, i'd like to weld it myself, but there are 2 things scared me off. first, quality of the weld, i'm just not that confident about my overhead welding skills. second, the placement is very critical, putting it on at the wrong place at the wrong angle, it won't do you any good.
i have seen someone paint their sliders with spray-on bedliner after it's welded, the finish was kinda messy, IMHO.
i have a Millermatic 250 welder, i'd like to weld it myself, but there are 2 things scared me off. first, quality of the weld, i'm just not that confident about my overhead welding skills. second, the placement is very critical, putting it on at the wrong place at the wrong angle, it won't do you any good.
The Trail Gear website says that you should paint them after they are installed. Any reasons for recommending that I paint prior to installation? I think I'm probably going to use Rustoleum paint and primer. I already have some Duplicolor spray on liner, but I haven't been super happy with it thus far. Plus, I figure Rustoleum will be easier to touch up in the future.
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to properly paint with an aerosol can, you need to keep the nossel perpendicular to your work and 6 inches away, how could you do that after the slider is on?
whatever the material you are painting on, proper prep is EVERTHING. metal in some way, just like human skin, it has pores, which can deposit tiny oil particles. that is the cause of paint peeling off. i have painted skid plate on my old 94 with Duplicolor bedliner, it worked out really good. you need to be very patient, first, grind out the sharp edges, then wipe it down with gasoline soaked shop rag to get rid of the surface oil, grease. let it dry. at last, burn all the oil out with a bernzomatic butane torch.
on the other hand, it may take the bedliner just 5 minutes to dry, but it takes much longer to cure.
oh, by the way, do yourself a favor, go to harbor freight buy couple of these for $2 each, your fingers will thank you alot.
whatever the material you are painting on, proper prep is EVERTHING. metal in some way, just like human skin, it has pores, which can deposit tiny oil particles. that is the cause of paint peeling off. i have painted skid plate on my old 94 with Duplicolor bedliner, it worked out really good. you need to be very patient, first, grind out the sharp edges, then wipe it down with gasoline soaked shop rag to get rid of the surface oil, grease. let it dry. at last, burn all the oil out with a bernzomatic butane torch.
on the other hand, it may take the bedliner just 5 minutes to dry, but it takes much longer to cure.
oh, by the way, do yourself a favor, go to harbor freight buy couple of these for $2 each, your fingers will thank you alot.
Last edited by TC4RNR; 06-14-2008 at 12:08 AM.
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#37
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to properly paint with an aerosol can, you need to keep the nossel perpendicular to your work and 6 inches away, how could you do that after the slider is on?
whatever the material you are painting on, proper prep is EVERTHING. metal in some way, just like human skin, it has pores, which can deposit tiny oil particles. that is the cause of paint peeling off. i have painted skid plate on my old 94 with Duplicolor bedliner, it worked out really good. you need to be very patient, first, grind out the sharp edges, then wipe it down with gasoline soaked shop rag to get rid of the surface oil, grease. let it dry. at last, burn all the oil out with a bernzomatic butane torch.
on the other hand, it may take the bedliner just 5 minutes to dry, but it takes much longer to cure.
oh, by the way, do yourself a favor, go to harbor freight buy couple of these for $2 each, your fingers will thank you alot.
whatever the material you are painting on, proper prep is EVERTHING. metal in some way, just like human skin, it has pores, which can deposit tiny oil particles. that is the cause of paint peeling off. i have painted skid plate on my old 94 with Duplicolor bedliner, it worked out really good. you need to be very patient, first, grind out the sharp edges, then wipe it down with gasoline soaked shop rag to get rid of the surface oil, grease. let it dry. at last, burn all the oil out with a bernzomatic butane torch.
on the other hand, it may take the bedliner just 5 minutes to dry, but it takes much longer to cure.
oh, by the way, do yourself a favor, go to harbor freight buy couple of these for $2 each, your fingers will thank you alot.
#38
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nope, no primer as the instructions said on the can. the key is spray evenly and as thin as possible. if you over spray, it will create puddles. you can apply the second layer later buy gotta let the first pass cure(not just dry) competely.
#39
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who cares, if your gonna be on rocks and such the paint is coming off anyway. i painted all but 4" from the welding surface, weld them on. then paint the rest as best you can
#40
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so how hard have you guys hit the rocks with these? i really want to get a set but dont want to waste money on anything thats going to fold right up the first time it takes a decent hit on a rock