Which lunchbox locker to get?
#1
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Which lunchbox locker to get?
Im looking to get a locker for the rear of my 95 4Runner V6.
Ive read a lot of mixed reviews about lunchbox lockers (Spartans, Aussie, Lockright etc)
What are your guy's take on them?
I want to know which to get, Its between the Spartan and the Powertrax No-Slip.
What is the better locker for onroad use? Which is going to be more quieter and smoother. Ive heard the spartan is quiet and smooth but the Powertrax has syncros to make it even smoother which the Spartan does not.
I cant decide which to get!
Ive read a lot of mixed reviews about lunchbox lockers (Spartans, Aussie, Lockright etc)
What are your guy's take on them?
I want to know which to get, Its between the Spartan and the Powertrax No-Slip.
What is the better locker for onroad use? Which is going to be more quieter and smoother. Ive heard the spartan is quiet and smooth but the Powertrax has syncros to make it even smoother which the Spartan does not.
I cant decide which to get!
#2
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I'll be in the market to buy one soon too.
I've looked into lunchbox lockers for a while now. When I do get one, I'll be getting the Spartan locker. I like the specs (like beefier parts), and the apparent ease of installing it. Last time I checked Summit Racing's website, it was only $266 + free shipping.
I've looked into lunchbox lockers for a while now. When I do get one, I'll be getting the Spartan locker. I like the specs (like beefier parts), and the apparent ease of installing it. Last time I checked Summit Racing's website, it was only $266 + free shipping.
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All lunchbox lockers are pretty much the same. As far as one being easier to install than another, that's marketing for you. They install the same.
I bought a lockrite because it was cheap, like $230 plus shipping. I have to lean out of the window going around turns to hear it ratcheting.
OP you said it was between the spartan or no slip? I believe the no slip is a limited slip not a true locker.
I bought a lockrite because it was cheap, like $230 plus shipping. I have to lean out of the window going around turns to hear it ratcheting.
OP you said it was between the spartan or no slip? I believe the no slip is a limited slip not a true locker.
#4
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All lunchbox lockers are pretty much the same. As far as one being easier to install than another, that's marketing for you. They install the same.
I bought a lockrite because it was cheap, like $230 plus shipping. I have to lean out of the window going around turns to hear it ratcheting.
OP you said it was between the spartan or no slip? I believe the no slip is a limited slip not a true locker.
I bought a lockrite because it was cheap, like $230 plus shipping. I have to lean out of the window going around turns to hear it ratcheting.
OP you said it was between the spartan or no slip? I believe the no slip is a limited slip not a true locker.
#7
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Aussie or Spartan. Spartan has bigger pins and better steel.
Although I am still getting used to my 4.88 equipped Spartan rear. It's pretty noisy and difficult to anticipate. I have a thread in Newbie section called Spartan Locker Concerns. That'll give you my account thus far.
And I think someone mentioned a difference in 4.10 & 4.88 noises.
Although I am still getting used to my 4.88 equipped Spartan rear. It's pretty noisy and difficult to anticipate. I have a thread in Newbie section called Spartan Locker Concerns. That'll give you my account thus far.
And I think someone mentioned a difference in 4.10 & 4.88 noises.
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#8
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I'm running Aussies in mine and my kids and we wheel em' hard on 35's. No problems so far. I'm even running a used one I bought cheap.
I've seen a lot of posts about other brands breaking pins or failing. Haven't seen many complaints about Aussies.
All ratcheting type lockers make noise and pretty much behave the same. My Detroit's sounded and acted the same as my Aussies. They take some getting used to.
Find one with good reviews and a good price and get it.
I've seen a lot of posts about other brands breaking pins or failing. Haven't seen many complaints about Aussies.
All ratcheting type lockers make noise and pretty much behave the same. My Detroit's sounded and acted the same as my Aussies. They take some getting used to.
Find one with good reviews and a good price and get it.
#9
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IMO it took about 5 minutes and a few turns to get used to driving with a lunchbox rear . Coast through turns , stay off the gas in turns , anticipate clunking in U turns .... And the ever constant click click click .
The extra traction is well worth any inconvenience IMO. I had a lock right and 31's , no problems at all.
Aussie seems to get great reviews though , and same price as Lockright ...
The extra traction is well worth any inconvenience IMO. I had a lock right and 31's , no problems at all.
Aussie seems to get great reviews though , and same price as Lockright ...
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When I take off from a stop light/sign I accelerate normally to me and my locker won't engage, now if I have to pull out in front of somebody or take off fast it will lock.
#13
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When I take off from a light and have to turn, I gas it in a straight line to get rolling and step on the clutch and coast through the turn.
I have no idea how a locker behaves with an automatic though.
I have no idea how a locker behaves with an automatic though.
#14
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Feel free anyone to correct me if I mess up this explanation:
In a left hand turn from a light , your outer wheel must rotate faster than the inside wheel because it has a longer distance to travel , basic wheel speed differentiation . The force of the outer wheel spinning faster causes a cam inside the spider gears to disengage, or separate, the clutch on the right side of the locker. The right side clutch that previously locked the spider gears to the right side axle shaft, can now rotate freely allowing the right wheel to spin faster in the turn .
Keep in mind that all the mating surfaces , or teeth , inside the locker are splined , they do not meet and lock at 90* angles , this allows them to disengage and engage easily .
When the vehicle is finished with the turn , and is again in a straight line , power input from the pinion gear locks the clutches on both sides to the spider gears and to the axle shafts, powering and turning both axle shafts the speed of the pinion gear .
Like most things that sound complicates , installing or viewing a lunchbox in person does way more to help you understand how they work ...
In a left hand turn from a light , your outer wheel must rotate faster than the inside wheel because it has a longer distance to travel , basic wheel speed differentiation . The force of the outer wheel spinning faster causes a cam inside the spider gears to disengage, or separate, the clutch on the right side of the locker. The right side clutch that previously locked the spider gears to the right side axle shaft, can now rotate freely allowing the right wheel to spin faster in the turn .
Keep in mind that all the mating surfaces , or teeth , inside the locker are splined , they do not meet and lock at 90* angles , this allows them to disengage and engage easily .
When the vehicle is finished with the turn , and is again in a straight line , power input from the pinion gear locks the clutches on both sides to the spider gears and to the axle shafts, powering and turning both axle shafts the speed of the pinion gear .
Like most things that sound complicates , installing or viewing a lunchbox in person does way more to help you understand how they work ...
#15
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... and to answer your question , IMO experience , I would gently accelerate through the length of a turn , no problems at all. Just don't try any burnouts from the left hand turn lane !
Last edited by v_man; 02-27-2014 at 10:36 AM.
#16
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^^ this doesn't apply to lunchbox lockers. There are no clutches. That seems to be a limited slip you're describing. Aussies, Spartans, Lockrite, etc, use teeth on drivers that must overcome a few springs and jump teeth. Then when power is applied, the cross pin is forced into a small part of the oval it resides in, thereby forcing the driver teeth to stay engaged and becoming locked. When there is no power applied, the cross pin is allowed to move and the driver can overcome the engagement and then "ratchets" when going around corners and such.
#17
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Howdy all... I'm new here
Recently picked up an '87 4Runner that needs lots of love. I'm pondering the same for my diff's and really struggling to decide...obviously because a lot of this comes down to preference, your situation, etc, etc.
I've read some old posts (~10 yrs ago) with all sorts of vehicles of guys with spartan lockers in the front AND rear and LOVE THEM.
Today I was told by a reputable, experienced source that it can be a challenge to get used to mechanical lockers, that I'll hate them and will have trouble turning in the front unless I have arms of steel and I'll have to keep getting out to unlock one of the hubs and ARB's are the way to go and to just suck it up and go with air lockers, the rear is most important and that's why nearly every manufacturer today goes with air or electric lockers.
(He also told me I should re-gear from the 4.10 to 5.29's with my 33's...which I will *NOT* do...probably go 4.56's)
I live in the desert, but mountains & occasional snow are a ~2 hr drive.
Open diff's on a 4x4 just seems WRONG, WRONG, WRONG! ...IMHO.
I'd really, really, really PREFER to NOT spend $2,000++ on an air locker setup, though I'm sure they're super nice.
So, does anyone have any experience with, say, spartan lockers in the front AND rear?
Thanks! -Mike
Recently picked up an '87 4Runner that needs lots of love. I'm pondering the same for my diff's and really struggling to decide...obviously because a lot of this comes down to preference, your situation, etc, etc.
I've read some old posts (~10 yrs ago) with all sorts of vehicles of guys with spartan lockers in the front AND rear and LOVE THEM.
Today I was told by a reputable, experienced source that it can be a challenge to get used to mechanical lockers, that I'll hate them and will have trouble turning in the front unless I have arms of steel and I'll have to keep getting out to unlock one of the hubs and ARB's are the way to go and to just suck it up and go with air lockers, the rear is most important and that's why nearly every manufacturer today goes with air or electric lockers.
(He also told me I should re-gear from the 4.10 to 5.29's with my 33's...which I will *NOT* do...probably go 4.56's)
I live in the desert, but mountains & occasional snow are a ~2 hr drive.
Open diff's on a 4x4 just seems WRONG, WRONG, WRONG! ...IMHO.
I'd really, really, really PREFER to NOT spend $2,000++ on an air locker setup, though I'm sure they're super nice.
So, does anyone have any experience with, say, spartan lockers in the front AND rear?
Thanks! -Mike
Last edited by 87runner_; 03-03-2014 at 02:30 PM.
#18
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The turning and such on-road would suck. But if your on the highway, you don't really need your hubs locked, so that really a non-issue, in my opinion.
And they do take some getting used to. It's not horrendous, but it will bang and pop and buck, which will have to ease into your normal driving noises.
Gearing to go back to stock feel, should be about 4.88s, but 4.56 will help and still leave you some highway legs. (Less RPM). I'm running 4.88s with 35s and a 3RZ and it does great.
And they do take some getting used to. It's not horrendous, but it will bang and pop and buck, which will have to ease into your normal driving noises.
Gearing to go back to stock feel, should be about 4.88s, but 4.56 will help and still leave you some highway legs. (Less RPM). I'm running 4.88s with 35s and a 3RZ and it does great.
#19
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Brand doesn't really matter as far as operation. (auto lockers)
I doubt I could tell what brand locker was in my truck by driving it.
A locker in the rear wants to push your truck straight in turns out on the trail. The benefit of having the locker exceeds the quirks you have to get used to.
A locker in the front can be felt in the steering effort but it isn't THAT bad. With a front locker you will keep digging even if you hang a wheel in the air. I've NEVER had to unlock a hub to steer.
I have NO REGRETS running lockers in both axles. My truck kicks ass with them.
Yes an ARB would be nice. I ain't paying that kind of money for it. Not in my budget.
I doubt I could tell what brand locker was in my truck by driving it.
A locker in the rear wants to push your truck straight in turns out on the trail. The benefit of having the locker exceeds the quirks you have to get used to.
A locker in the front can be felt in the steering effort but it isn't THAT bad. With a front locker you will keep digging even if you hang a wheel in the air. I've NEVER had to unlock a hub to steer.
I have NO REGRETS running lockers in both axles. My truck kicks ass with them.
Yes an ARB would be nice. I ain't paying that kind of money for it. Not in my budget.
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So, I just discovered this AWESOME thread here:
Spartan Locker Review
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f105...review-229162/
...from 3 years ago.
I've decided on the Spartan lockers in the front AND rear.
I'm a little concerned about the rare times I'll be driving in snow, but I'm thinking I can just get a set of chains and put them on the front when driving on the highway in snow/ice. Unlikely to lose traction (and I don't hot-dog it on ice, either). Otherwise, they should be nice. Like some, I don't drive w/ my hubs locked unless I'm exclusively off-road or specifically need 4wd.
Spartan Locker Review
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f105...review-229162/
...from 3 years ago.
I've decided on the Spartan lockers in the front AND rear.
I'm a little concerned about the rare times I'll be driving in snow, but I'm thinking I can just get a set of chains and put them on the front when driving on the highway in snow/ice. Unlikely to lose traction (and I don't hot-dog it on ice, either). Otherwise, they should be nice. Like some, I don't drive w/ my hubs locked unless I'm exclusively off-road or specifically need 4wd.
Last edited by 87runner_; 03-03-2014 at 06:47 PM.