EVANS NPG+ Waterless Coolant
06-26-2007, 09:08 AM
#21
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
I got converted over to the NPG+ and so far it seems to be working as advertised with no problems.
I pretty much followed Tom's instructions above. One thing I did in addition to his recommendations was to hook up a shop vac hose to the system after it was competely drained to help dry the water out in the low spots.
I just left the vac running for a few hours and let the air flow help evaporate the water.
A wet vac was also a big help with flushing out the heater core because I only had to disconnect one heater hose (the one by the water flow valve is very easy to reach). I was careful to not to let the shop vac unleash its full power on the little heater core. Not sure if full power would damage it or not, so better to be on the safe side and just gently apply suction.
I hooked up a spare heater hose I had to the water flow valve to made it easier to pour to prep into the heater core. I covered the openings with an old t shirt to keep something from getting sucked into the open hoses while running the vac:
I used a gal of the prep fluid to flush the heater core and engine block out. I recovered a good portion of it and it can be recycle later:
I also installed an aluminum core radiator to replace my copper/brass rad:
One interesting site I found was the Aero Propulsion Technologes site and under their Rotax Aircraft Engine instruments info they have these temp guide lines:
http://www.rotaxservice.com/documents/4STref.pdf
If you look closely at the cylinder head temp guide lines you can see a significant rise in the allowable CHT if using the NPG+ coolant. For one aircraft engine the CHT can go as high as 275 deg F with NPG+ and with another it can go to 300 deg F.
I pretty much followed Tom's instructions above. One thing I did in addition to his recommendations was to hook up a shop vac hose to the system after it was competely drained to help dry the water out in the low spots.
I just left the vac running for a few hours and let the air flow help evaporate the water.
A wet vac was also a big help with flushing out the heater core because I only had to disconnect one heater hose (the one by the water flow valve is very easy to reach). I was careful to not to let the shop vac unleash its full power on the little heater core. Not sure if full power would damage it or not, so better to be on the safe side and just gently apply suction.
I hooked up a spare heater hose I had to the water flow valve to made it easier to pour to prep into the heater core. I covered the openings with an old t shirt to keep something from getting sucked into the open hoses while running the vac:
I used a gal of the prep fluid to flush the heater core and engine block out. I recovered a good portion of it and it can be recycle later:
I also installed an aluminum core radiator to replace my copper/brass rad:
One interesting site I found was the Aero Propulsion Technologes site and under their Rotax Aircraft Engine instruments info they have these temp guide lines:
http://www.rotaxservice.com/documents/4STref.pdf
If you look closely at the cylinder head temp guide lines you can see a significant rise in the allowable CHT if using the NPG+ coolant. For one aircraft engine the CHT can go as high as 275 deg F with NPG+ and with another it can go to 300 deg F.
12-29-2008, 09:22 AM
#23
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, it's been doing good. I've slept about 400-500 nights since I bought it all, (so memory has faded out) but seems like the rad was about $150-160, something like that. The coolant is pretty expensive too. I guess its was about $250 for everything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LittleUgly
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
15
01-02-2020 01:30 PM
kcaudill
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
19
10-10-2015 02:39 PM
