Build Ideas for a reasonably priced ($5000 max) 1984-1994 toyota pick-up
01-24-2010, 09:55 AM
#41
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am still willing to sell mine. There are a couple of leaks, but overall it's in good condition. This would be easily ready for the wheeling season if you wanted to drop 200 bucks to rebuild the front axle and I have all the parts for fixing the t-case. Just throwing this out for you.
01-24-2010, 10:01 AM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, now we have a good idea as to what to recommend.
Here's my thoughts:
Xtra-Cab. You don't need a short wheelbase, and that extra room could be real nice.
Here's the priority list:
1) Lockers - Aussie Lockers front and rear, $600
2) Armor - $100 - $300
3) Flatbed / Body mods $1000
4) Tires - $1000
5) Suspension - $2-3000 (depending on vehicle purchased)
1) LOCKERS. The aussies are some of my favorites, good performance on a budget (240-270$), and they get positive reviews everywhere. I have actually never seen a bad review...
2) Armor. Reinforce the crap outa everything. Especially if you are doing the work yourself, this is fairly cheap and can save your ass. Nobody wants to walk home. $100 will get you a lot of peace of mind. You can get weld on armor many places, here's one:
http://www.wabfab.org/products/armor/armor.htm
3) Flatbed/Bed mods. If this is a vehicle to play with, the extra clearance from a flatbed is just plain nice. Build in nice features for how you are going to use it. I personally like the flatbeds with a raised deck with storage below and a canopy above. This can allow for a nice flat, covered sleeping surface with enough room below the deck for tools and spare, and a canopy to keep sun and rain off.
4) Tires. Keep your stock rims, run 33x12.50's without much difficulty. A set will probably set you back about 800-1000 bones. My 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws were a steal at 220$/Ea.
5) Suspension. Oddly enough, for a multi-purpose trail rig like what you need, suspension comes in dead last. You don't need crazy long springs with the ability to go WAY negative, you need to not get beaten to death on the trail. If you do the above three steps right, you ought to be able to spend like $2000 on suspension, that should be all you need. Actually, these two kits for front and rear from Wab Fab might be a good starting point, they are extremely inclusive. In fact, the front kit even includes some dif armor. Maybe the Wabbit could inject his two cents here...
http://www.wabfab.org/products/suspe...assicfront.htm
http://www.wabfab.org/products/suspe...earliftkit.htm
Here's my thoughts:
Xtra-Cab. You don't need a short wheelbase, and that extra room could be real nice.
Here's the priority list:
1) Lockers - Aussie Lockers front and rear, $600
2) Armor - $100 - $300
3) Flatbed / Body mods $1000
4) Tires - $1000
5) Suspension - $2-3000 (depending on vehicle purchased)
1) LOCKERS. The aussies are some of my favorites, good performance on a budget (240-270$), and they get positive reviews everywhere. I have actually never seen a bad review...
2) Armor. Reinforce the crap outa everything. Especially if you are doing the work yourself, this is fairly cheap and can save your ass. Nobody wants to walk home. $100 will get you a lot of peace of mind. You can get weld on armor many places, here's one:
http://www.wabfab.org/products/armor/armor.htm
3) Flatbed/Bed mods. If this is a vehicle to play with, the extra clearance from a flatbed is just plain nice. Build in nice features for how you are going to use it. I personally like the flatbeds with a raised deck with storage below and a canopy above. This can allow for a nice flat, covered sleeping surface with enough room below the deck for tools and spare, and a canopy to keep sun and rain off.
4) Tires. Keep your stock rims, run 33x12.50's without much difficulty. A set will probably set you back about 800-1000 bones. My 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws were a steal at 220$/Ea.
5) Suspension. Oddly enough, for a multi-purpose trail rig like what you need, suspension comes in dead last. You don't need crazy long springs with the ability to go WAY negative, you need to not get beaten to death on the trail. If you do the above three steps right, you ought to be able to spend like $2000 on suspension, that should be all you need. Actually, these two kits for front and rear from Wab Fab might be a good starting point, they are extremely inclusive. In fact, the front kit even includes some dif armor. Maybe the Wabbit could inject his two cents here...
http://www.wabfab.org/products/suspe...assicfront.htm
http://www.wabfab.org/products/suspe...earliftkit.htm
Also I am kinda worried about breaking stuff. As it will be my daily I want to make sure everything will be more than stout enough. Any problem areas I should look after?
01-24-2010, 10:11 AM
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a thread with some pictures of my 89 xtra cab truck I had.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ations-149336/
First thing I did to it was trim the fenders and install 33" tires. I had a set of A/T tires for the street, and swampers for the trail. Added sliders and wheeled it a bit more, then added a locker. Eventually made a front bumper for it, bobbed the bed and made a rear tube bumper to go with it. For suspension, the front was bone stock, replaced the shocks. The rear I first ran some Add a Leafs, but didn't like the ride quality. Ended up with a set of 2" downey rear springs and was very happy with that setup.
The truck did everything I wanted out of a IFS rig, never let me down on the trails. Always got me home, and got 18-19 mpg with the stock gearing and 33's. Lower gearing would have been nice, but wasn't in the budget at the time.
Prices off the top of my head -
Truck $2500
Sliders $240 (4xinnovation DOM sliders with kickout, strong stuff!)
lockright locker $200
Used 33" swampers and 1 new swamper $400
New Cragar steel rims $200
Used AT tires on stock rims $300
Front and rear bumper material $250
Replacement bed $100
Tube doors and hinges $300
Total $4490
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ations-149336/
First thing I did to it was trim the fenders and install 33" tires. I had a set of A/T tires for the street, and swampers for the trail. Added sliders and wheeled it a bit more, then added a locker. Eventually made a front bumper for it, bobbed the bed and made a rear tube bumper to go with it. For suspension, the front was bone stock, replaced the shocks. The rear I first ran some Add a Leafs, but didn't like the ride quality. Ended up with a set of 2" downey rear springs and was very happy with that setup.
The truck did everything I wanted out of a IFS rig, never let me down on the trails. Always got me home, and got 18-19 mpg with the stock gearing and 33's. Lower gearing would have been nice, but wasn't in the budget at the time.
Prices off the top of my head -
Truck $2500
Sliders $240 (4xinnovation DOM sliders with kickout, strong stuff!)
lockright locker $200
Used 33" swampers and 1 new swamper $400
New Cragar steel rims $200
Used AT tires on stock rims $300
Front and rear bumper material $250
Replacement bed $100
Tube doors and hinges $300
Total $4490
Also thats a dam good lookin truck
01-24-2010, 10:18 AM
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
stud if u dont mind, i was in your shoes about 6 months ago, looking on ebay craigslist any where else to find a 85 fuel injected ext cab yota what i drove almost 1 thous miles 1 way was to pick up a 85 carb reg cab 4inch lift w/other mods. i hate the tiny space but i love my truck thoe. be patient there out there. that is if u wanna drive far?
01-24-2010, 12:32 PM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Sonora, CA (Central Sierra)
Posts: 447
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are some sources for what to carry, etc.:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...heeling-76478/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...ery-kit-16190/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...roading-58706/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f153...s-pics-128138/
01-24-2010, 04:41 PM
#46
Registered User
i drove to north carolina to get mine and the only rust is well the entire inside of the bed but that will get replaced when i get $$$$$. a little advice every1 i looked at down south were rust
01-24-2010, 04:59 PM
#47
Registered User
V-6 (3vze) is a pos.. it tends to have problems and it hardly beats the 22re for power. Get a 22re for sure, i've had 6 carb'd toyotas and the carb is a pain in the ass.
If you want a capable off road rig i would recommend an 84 or 85 the straight axle tends to be a little less problem prone and with a lift will outperform the IFS. It's also MUCH easier and cheaper to lift
I'm running an extreme budget build here are some of the mods i have done myself to save money.
Lift-
Chevy half ton springs in the rear $30
Add a leaf with rear springs in the front $0
Lockers-
Welded rear $20 (gear oil gasket maker and welding consumables)
Lockright front $100 on craigslist
Steering-
Trail Gear histeer $300
You would probably be looking at $250 to $800 for a decent set of meats. Since you want good gas mileage i would also get some ring and pinion gears to reduce your gearing a little bit. You could run anything from a 33 to a 36.. possibly 38's but it doesnt sound like you want to go that big.
Heres my rig. Obviously its a beater trail rig but you could do some of the same mods and keep a clean good looking truck
If you want a capable off road rig i would recommend an 84 or 85 the straight axle tends to be a little less problem prone and with a lift will outperform the IFS. It's also MUCH easier and cheaper to lift
I'm running an extreme budget build here are some of the mods i have done myself to save money.
Lift-
Chevy half ton springs in the rear $30
Add a leaf with rear springs in the front $0
Lockers-
Welded rear $20 (gear oil gasket maker and welding consumables)
Lockright front $100 on craigslist
Steering-
Trail Gear histeer $300
You would probably be looking at $250 to $800 for a decent set of meats. Since you want good gas mileage i would also get some ring and pinion gears to reduce your gearing a little bit. You could run anything from a 33 to a 36.. possibly 38's but it doesnt sound like you want to go that big.
Heres my rig. Obviously its a beater trail rig but you could do some of the same mods and keep a clean good looking truck
01-25-2010, 06:58 AM
#49
Thanks 
I wheeled it 4-8 times a year, would drive it about 200 miles to the trail, and wheel a full day all on 1 tank of gas. Fill up for the next day, wheel some more then head home the following day. Never broke anything on the trail, unless you count dents
I found the 3vze to be very reliable, don't listen to all the negative crap the internet has to say about it. Though when something does go wrong, it can be a bear to work on, very cramped in that little engine bay. Once the HG blew at 265k I let the truck go, and picked up my 4runner to build up
I wheeled it 4-8 times a year, would drive it about 200 miles to the trail, and wheel a full day all on 1 tank of gas. Fill up for the next day, wheel some more then head home the following day. Never broke anything on the trail, unless you count dents
I found the 3vze to be very reliable, don't listen to all the negative crap the internet has to say about it. Though when something does go wrong, it can be a bear to work on, very cramped in that little engine bay. Once the HG blew at 265k I let the truck go, and picked up my 4runner to build up
09-28-2010, 04:18 AM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LCE does make a supercharger kit for the 22RE, but it will run you well over two grand. IF you ant power you could rebuild a 22RET, but I don't know how much that will cost you, either. I'm just throwing out ideas.
If you aren't doing any serious wheeling, then you don't need to go crazy with a lift. I run 32's with the stock IFS setup and can go almost anywhere in 4-LO, I just have to replace ball joints like they're going out of style. The money and time you put into SAS could be put into another area of your rig, especially if you're only willing to spend 5k on it.
And what you hear about the 3.SLOW is true, no power, poor gas mileage, but it is a motor and it runs. Just beat it into the ground and start all over again.
If you aren't doing any serious wheeling, then you don't need to go crazy with a lift. I run 32's with the stock IFS setup and can go almost anywhere in 4-LO, I just have to replace ball joints like they're going out of style. The money and time you put into SAS could be put into another area of your rig, especially if you're only willing to spend 5k on it.
And what you hear about the 3.SLOW is true, no power, poor gas mileage, but it is a motor and it runs. Just beat it into the ground and start all over again.
09-28-2010, 10:24 AM
#53
Registered User
I'm not an expert by any means, but here's the two cents I earned buying my rig.
My mpg experience echos what others here have said- it's the diff gearing not the tire size.
Yotas aren't aerodynamic no matter what tires they got. Running 10.5 in width rather than 12.5 couldn't hurt though.
Remember that with an old 80's yota, some cash will probably have to go into the 'truck' end of things, limiting the amount of cash you'll get to spend upgrading the 'trailrig.'
My suggestion is to try and find a really really mechanically solid truck, and consider any trail upgrades you inherit a bonus. And remember that some trail upgrades wear through parts. If the thing's got a big ole' lift in it and it's IFS, the CV's might be on the way out and the steering might be badly stressed. Check for welds on the cab - rollovers. It's not the end of the world, but it should bring the price down.
And don't scour the earth for a truck with the exact specs you're looking for. When I was looking, I reeeeally wanted an 81 - 83. Love the way they look, love the wheelbase, and I wanted that SFA to build on. But all the 1st gen trucks in my price range that I test drove needed major mechanical work before I could even consider trail upgrades. After two months of looking, I wound up spending 3500 bucks on an '87 longbed with IFS and a 22R carb'd motor. But it had no body lift and it came with 33x12.5's, 4.88 gears, two locked diffs, and both ends trussed. The engine was in unreal shape and it stayed in first gear when I put it there (check for that!) I just couldn't pass it up. I painted it, rhino lined the bed, and then spent the rest of my cash on armor and a reeeeal sweet set of GoodYear Wranglers with the Kevlar lining (and I highly recommend them. Best upgrade I've done. Woth the 1200 bucks). It gets about 20 mpg, I still haven't really hit its limits offroad and now I can focus on the details like poly bushings, bolted-in battery box, etc. Next up is a budbuilt crossmember.
And remember that gearing is expensive and running big tires with the wrong gearing wrecks your mileage onroad and limits your crawling offroad. And for real good wheelin, especially IFS, front and rear lockers are a big bonus because you will hardly ever have all four wheels on the ground at the same time.
So my suggestion, in conclusion-
Don't worry too much about 22R vs. 22RE and find a mechanically sound truck you like sittin' in. Put your cash into 33's if you don't mind a little rubbin (or if you don't mind hammering in your pinch weld) and 31's if you do mind, install lockers front and back, and get the right gearing for your tires. If it comes with some of that done already, put the cash into armor and making sure your steering and suspension components are bomber.
Good luck and keep us posted!
My mpg experience echos what others here have said- it's the diff gearing not the tire size.
Yotas aren't aerodynamic no matter what tires they got. Running 10.5 in width rather than 12.5 couldn't hurt though.
Remember that with an old 80's yota, some cash will probably have to go into the 'truck' end of things, limiting the amount of cash you'll get to spend upgrading the 'trailrig.'
My suggestion is to try and find a really really mechanically solid truck, and consider any trail upgrades you inherit a bonus. And remember that some trail upgrades wear through parts. If the thing's got a big ole' lift in it and it's IFS, the CV's might be on the way out and the steering might be badly stressed. Check for welds on the cab - rollovers. It's not the end of the world, but it should bring the price down.
And don't scour the earth for a truck with the exact specs you're looking for. When I was looking, I reeeeally wanted an 81 - 83. Love the way they look, love the wheelbase, and I wanted that SFA to build on. But all the 1st gen trucks in my price range that I test drove needed major mechanical work before I could even consider trail upgrades. After two months of looking, I wound up spending 3500 bucks on an '87 longbed with IFS and a 22R carb'd motor. But it had no body lift and it came with 33x12.5's, 4.88 gears, two locked diffs, and both ends trussed. The engine was in unreal shape and it stayed in first gear when I put it there (check for that!) I just couldn't pass it up. I painted it, rhino lined the bed, and then spent the rest of my cash on armor and a reeeeal sweet set of GoodYear Wranglers with the Kevlar lining (and I highly recommend them. Best upgrade I've done. Woth the 1200 bucks). It gets about 20 mpg, I still haven't really hit its limits offroad and now I can focus on the details like poly bushings, bolted-in battery box, etc. Next up is a budbuilt crossmember.
And remember that gearing is expensive and running big tires with the wrong gearing wrecks your mileage onroad and limits your crawling offroad. And for real good wheelin, especially IFS, front and rear lockers are a big bonus because you will hardly ever have all four wheels on the ground at the same time.
So my suggestion, in conclusion-
Don't worry too much about 22R vs. 22RE and find a mechanically sound truck you like sittin' in. Put your cash into 33's if you don't mind a little rubbin (or if you don't mind hammering in your pinch weld) and 31's if you do mind, install lockers front and back, and get the right gearing for your tires. If it comes with some of that done already, put the cash into armor and making sure your steering and suspension components are bomber.
Good luck and keep us posted!
10-12-2010, 03:39 PM
#54
Registered User
you can get pie cutter tires 32" or 33" less drag on the road maintenance is key on these wittle guys
you can get a cheap block lift kit or you can buy a real lift kit for 1000 - 1500+ which pretty much overhauls your whole suspension which inturn is smoother and safer than blocks but mucho expensive i myself am a cheap bastard...
invest in the lockers most important thing when it comes to any real 4wheeling which i dont do... im a trail guy hint the cheap bastard part.. :-)
year wise you should go with the solid axles the ifs is annoying to much going on down there for me but i myself have ifs and have wet dreams of solid fronts...
INVEST IN SAFETY!!! fab or buy atleeaaassst a roll bar if you plan on crawling learn how to weld and save yourself some money on a exo...
motorwise its up to you really the v6's are known to have continuous problems but not always depends on maintenance and i dont know too much about them but never really heard anything good...
the 22r - carb can be a beootch to mess around with especially if you have to smog oh say in CA its a nightmare and i heard crawling on steep inclines the carb can load up but are fine on downhills i hear some people reverse them the fuel injections sound easier to me but dont come on the solid front axle years as far as i know
motor mods?? some people do 20r head conversions on the 22r for more compression dont really know what this entails but im sure its not just a bolt on swap or is it? you can also get a new high per carb, headers/exaust ect. give or take your smog restrictions
you can get a cheap block lift kit or you can buy a real lift kit for 1000 - 1500+ which pretty much overhauls your whole suspension which inturn is smoother and safer than blocks but mucho expensive i myself am a cheap bastard...
invest in the lockers most important thing when it comes to any real 4wheeling which i dont do... im a trail guy hint the cheap bastard part.. :-)
year wise you should go with the solid axles the ifs is annoying to much going on down there for me but i myself have ifs and have wet dreams of solid fronts...
INVEST IN SAFETY!!! fab or buy atleeaaassst a roll bar if you plan on crawling learn how to weld and save yourself some money on a exo...
motorwise its up to you really the v6's are known to have continuous problems but not always depends on maintenance and i dont know too much about them but never really heard anything good...
the 22r - carb can be a beootch to mess around with especially if you have to smog oh say in CA its a nightmare and i heard crawling on steep inclines the carb can load up but are fine on downhills i hear some people reverse them the fuel injections sound easier to me but dont come on the solid front axle years as far as i know
motor mods?? some people do 20r head conversions on the 22r for more compression dont really know what this entails but im sure its not just a bolt on swap or is it? you can also get a new high per carb, headers/exaust ect. give or take your smog restrictions
10-12-2010, 07:38 PM
#55
Registered User
if you are going to go wheeling every month you need a solid axle.
I have a 1991 IFS 22re/5 speed 4 runner. it does very well but all of my flex comes from the rear ( old man emu 900's with 14 inch travel bilstein shocks.) so I made it many places, BUT THW IFS IS WEAK !!!!
I have gotten 20-22 on my way to and from work. not bad at all, and I am running 31 10.5 bfg mt's and stock 4:10 gears
so do your self right and get a 22re with a SOLID FRONT AXLE. I had a carbed 85 with a solid frot axle and it was bomb proof compaird to ifs.
If you like the body style get a 90-95 truck (I got the 4 runner because i need the back seat.)and then get a solid front axle. just my 2 cents
I have a 1991 IFS 22re/5 speed 4 runner. it does very well but all of my flex comes from the rear ( old man emu 900's with 14 inch travel bilstein shocks.) so I made it many places, BUT THW IFS IS WEAK !!!!
I have gotten 20-22 on my way to and from work. not bad at all, and I am running 31 10.5 bfg mt's and stock 4:10 gears
so do your self right and get a 22re with a SOLID FRONT AXLE. I had a carbed 85 with a solid frot axle and it was bomb proof compaird to ifs.
If you like the body style get a 90-95 truck (I got the 4 runner because i need the back seat.)and then get a solid front axle. just my 2 cents
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
6th Gear
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
19
12-10-2019 07:31 AM
FS[SouthEast]: 3rd gen 5 spoke with Michelin MS2
Csefiroth0
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
3
06-30-2015 02:19 PM
greenmachine93
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
06-25-2015 07:50 PM
saphirekosmos
Newbie Tech Section
1
06-22-2015 10:26 AM
