22r Valve adj. and timing chain Q?
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22r Valve adj. and timing chain Q?
First off i have searched both of these questions and could not find a clear answer.
Ok so heres my dilemma my driver side timing chain guide has broken, it just broke on the top bolt goes through it. So now there is slack in the timing chain only on the drivers side, is this normal? or only because the guide is now broken, if it is normal how much slack is supposed to be there.
Valve adjustment, i originally took everything apart so i could adjust the valves because i thought that is where my noise is coming from, I have a link to a FSM http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/7cylinder.pdf and i have looked at other threads regarding this topic and no one had a clear cut answer. The fsm states to warm up engine before adjustment but gives cold adjustment specs, so now i would think that they would be loose because i adjusted to specs when it was warm, Do i just adjust when cold or do i use a different spec? If so what is it. When i tried to get a feeler gauge in there when it was warm i had to loosen them a lil bit, were my valves most likely fine and i just made them worse? Every thread i looked at about this people were debating the cold vs warm but no specs were delivered, now i am just confused. when the valves are at tdc cold should they have any up and down play in them? they did not then they were warm, it makes sense to allow for expansion i am just confused and do not want to further harm by truck.
final question is it only the online dealers that carry the metal backed timing chain guides i am going to upgrade it since i am in there. also my guides do not look worn at all is it possible that the chain does not need to be replaced and it was just a faulty guide or someone not working on it properly in the past. If the chain can be reused how can you tell, is this totally wrong for me trying to do this and save a lil cash or should i just replace all of it.
Ok so heres my dilemma my driver side timing chain guide has broken, it just broke on the top bolt goes through it. So now there is slack in the timing chain only on the drivers side, is this normal? or only because the guide is now broken, if it is normal how much slack is supposed to be there.
Valve adjustment, i originally took everything apart so i could adjust the valves because i thought that is where my noise is coming from, I have a link to a FSM http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/7cylinder.pdf and i have looked at other threads regarding this topic and no one had a clear cut answer. The fsm states to warm up engine before adjustment but gives cold adjustment specs, so now i would think that they would be loose because i adjusted to specs when it was warm, Do i just adjust when cold or do i use a different spec? If so what is it. When i tried to get a feeler gauge in there when it was warm i had to loosen them a lil bit, were my valves most likely fine and i just made them worse? Every thread i looked at about this people were debating the cold vs warm but no specs were delivered, now i am just confused. when the valves are at tdc cold should they have any up and down play in them? they did not then they were warm, it makes sense to allow for expansion i am just confused and do not want to further harm by truck.
final question is it only the online dealers that carry the metal backed timing chain guides i am going to upgrade it since i am in there. also my guides do not look worn at all is it possible that the chain does not need to be replaced and it was just a faulty guide or someone not working on it properly in the past. If the chain can be reused how can you tell, is this totally wrong for me trying to do this and save a lil cash or should i just replace all of it.
Last edited by Ed H.; 03-09-2009 at 02:19 PM.
#2
Only the online dealers carry the metal guides, as its an aftermarket componet, not a factory option. I would replace everything in the front end, chain included since you will already be in there. No sense cutting corners if you are that far.
Adjust the valves when warm, to .08 and .12 (Intake and Exhaust)
Its pretty normal for the drivers side guide to be broken, thats why you always hear about the chain rubbing through the timing cover on that side. Its good that you caught it now, before any real problems could happen.
Adjust the valves when warm, to .08 and .12 (Intake and Exhaust)
Its pretty normal for the drivers side guide to be broken, thats why you always hear about the chain rubbing through the timing cover on that side. Its good that you caught it now, before any real problems could happen.
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Only the online dealers carry the metal guides, as its an aftermarket componet, not a factory option. I would replace everything in the front end, chain included since you will already be in there. No sense cutting corners if you are that far.
Adjust the valves when warm, to .08 and .12 (Intake and Exhaust)
Its pretty normal for the drivers side guide to be broken, thats why you always hear about the chain rubbing through the timing cover on that side. Its good that you caught it now, before any real problems could happen.
Adjust the valves when warm, to .08 and .12 (Intake and Exhaust)
Its pretty normal for the drivers side guide to be broken, thats why you always hear about the chain rubbing through the timing cover on that side. Its good that you caught it now, before any real problems could happen.
This kit is from parts dinosaur, made by preferred components inc. http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1.html it seems kind of cheap i just want to make sure i am putting quality parts in my truck, the stock replacement one from napa was 119.00 this one is 44.00 plus gaskets. Also i have seen the kit for the dual row chain is it just as easy as swapping all of the parts over. I read something about the oil pump drive spline needing to be changed but it is not offered in any of the kits i have seen.
Last edited by Ed H.; 03-09-2009 at 04:18 PM.
#4
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Check out engnbldr.com. You can email that address or visit the site under the same name. Great people and even if you don't buy from them they'll answer all your questions.
I would think the only reason to adjust valves cold is if you've just replaced them or rebuilt the engine. You want them somewhere near spec before firing the engine back up, then, once it's warm, you adjust them to where they really need to be.
Slack is normal, within a certain amount. I think depeding on where you are in relation to TDC, there will be slack on one side or the other, just not both. It's kind of up to you...but if the chain is loose enough to where it broke a guide, just replacing the guide is a bandaide, and much worse things could happen before the next time you pull the cover and peek in there.
I've also heard you need an extended oil pump drive spline for the dual row chain.
I would think the only reason to adjust valves cold is if you've just replaced them or rebuilt the engine. You want them somewhere near spec before firing the engine back up, then, once it's warm, you adjust them to where they really need to be.
Slack is normal, within a certain amount. I think depeding on where you are in relation to TDC, there will be slack on one side or the other, just not both. It's kind of up to you...but if the chain is loose enough to where it broke a guide, just replacing the guide is a bandaide, and much worse things could happen before the next time you pull the cover and peek in there.
I've also heard you need an extended oil pump drive spline for the dual row chain.
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