Stupid Coolant Question
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bend, OR.
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If your coolant is that color i would definately say flush it. Coolant actually carries a voltage, if that voltage becomes too heavy it can cause the coolant to become acidic and begin eating away your valvetrain.
If you want to test your coolant voltage take a voltameter and just dip it in the radiator, then look up maximum tolerance in your owners manual or online.
If you want to test your coolant voltage take a voltameter and just dip it in the radiator, then look up maximum tolerance in your owners manual or online.
#4
Contributing Member
My guess would be Rust!! You're filling a cast iron engine block with a water based liquid, you're going to get some corrosion. Like the others said flush the system, and fill it with new coolant. Make sure you use 50:50 coolant and distilled water, cheaping out and using less coolant just speeds up the corrosion. And change it every 2 years, or even sooner.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Suisun City, California
Posts: 970
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My guess would be Rust!! You're filling a cast iron engine block with a water based liquid, you're going to get some corrosion. Like the others said flush the system, and fill it with new coolant. Make sure you use 50:50 coolant and distilled water, cheaping out and using less coolant just speeds up the corrosion. And change it every 2 years, or even sooner.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes "rust" is the problem , probably like the previous posts state - not enough anti-freeze in your mix.
Anti-freeze will get dingy and dirty with age , flush and fills are required maintenence on all vehicles to keep corrosion under control .
Anti-freeze will get dingy and dirty with age , flush and fills are required maintenence on all vehicles to keep corrosion under control .
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Birmingham, AL.
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am not as knowledgeable as the others here, but I've never seen it turn from green to red in any of my other vehicles due to age. I do remember that there was an "environment friendly" version that came out several years ago that looked red. I can't remember, but I think it was when they first started trying to make it where it wouldn't kill animals if they drank it.
May be that this is what it is. Anytime I've ever seen rust in my antifreeze, it just looked like flakes of rust in green antifreeze.
Just my 2 pennies.
May be that this is what it is. Anytime I've ever seen rust in my antifreeze, it just looked like flakes of rust in green antifreeze.
Just my 2 pennies.
Trending Topics
#8
Contributing Member
I am not as knowledgeable as the others here, but I've never seen it turn from green to red in any of my other vehicles due to age. I do remember that there was an "environment friendly" version that came out several years ago that looked red. I can't remember, but I think it was when they first started trying to make it where it wouldn't kill animals if they drank it.
May be that this is what it is. Anytime I've ever seen rust in my antifreeze, it just looked like flakes of rust in green antifreeze.
Just my 2 pennies.
May be that this is what it is. Anytime I've ever seen rust in my antifreeze, it just looked like flakes of rust in green antifreeze.
Just my 2 pennies.
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
i bought the truck a few months ago and didnt check it when i bought it (witch i should have) and it is heating up more than normal so i will flush it and change it.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coolant Question
I went to Prep Boys and their book said a 195 degree so I got a 180 so it would run cooler , found out that OEM Yota Stat is 180 degree so all I did was put the right one in , go figure .
#12
Throw a T-Stat in it while you are at it if its running warmer than usual and beware aftermarket recommended temp of 195 degree , OEM is 180 Degree !
I went to Prep Boys and their book said a 195 degree so I got a 180 so it would run cooler , found out that OEM Yota Stat is 180 degree so all I did was put the right one in , go figure .
I went to Prep Boys and their book said a 195 degree so I got a 180 so it would run cooler , found out that OEM Yota Stat is 180 degree so all I did was put the right one in , go figure .
My coolant is also rust-colored and it has smal pieces in it. I do think that it is remains from a sealer that i used to seal "something" that was leaking coolant. Could never figure it out what is was...But its holding up. Should i change the coolant or will it effect the seal?
By the way, is it hard to change the T-Stat...?
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coolant Color
My coolant is also rust-colored and it has smal pieces in it. I do think that it is remains from a sealer that i used to seal "something" that was leaking coolant. Could never figure it out what is was...But its holding up. Should i change the coolant or will it effect the seal?
By the way, is it hard to change the T-Stat...?
By the way, is it hard to change the T-Stat...?
If I had stuff floating in my coolant I would change it just for General Purpose so it wasn't in there wandering around , flushing and re-filling would not hurt a seal at all unless your talking about that Radiator Stop Leak mess , in that case a aggressive shop stye compressed air flush may affect that a little bit .
I I have a '91 3VZE motor and the T-Stat is just to the right of the water pump (follow top hose on radiator to motor and it should be there) , only 2 screws and a gasket (which local parts place didn't have -had to get from dealer) , you can use RTV if you wish but I would go with the OEM Gasket.
I think I mentioned in a previous thread to be careful about the temperature of the stat as the recommended stats at Prep Boys and such are inaccurate (they list a 195 degree when it should be 180 degree).
Outside of that it should be very easy to do and if I had chunks of gasket and or anything in my radiator I would definately flush and fill it .
Just remember previous post also , there are some coolants that are red in color and your may be that type and just dirty , but the chunks of stuff or particles of any type should not be in coolant system unless you have used that Radiator Stop Leak mess .
Last edited by n4ynu1010; 10-06-2007 at 12:33 PM.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
i dont have stuff floating in mine and it may be that red coolant but as soon as i get a free few hours im going to change it out and hope that it is just dirty
#15
\
If I had stuff floating in my coolant I would change it just for General Purpose so it wasn't in there wandering around , flushing and re-filling would not hurt a seal at all unless your talking about that Radiator Stop Leak mess , in that case a aggressive shop stye compressed air flush may affect that a little bit .
I I have a '91 3VZE motor and the T-Stat is just to the right of the water pump (follow top hose on radiator to motor and it should be there) , only 2 screws and a gasket (which local parts place didn't have -had to get from dealer) , you can use RTV if you wish but I would go with the OEM Gasket.
I think I mentioned in a previous thread to be careful about the temperature of the stat as the recommended stats at Prep Boys and such are inaccurate (they list a 195 degree when it should be 180 degree).
Outside of that it should be very easy to do and if I had chunks of gasket and or anything in my radiator I would definately flush and fill it .
Just remember previous post also , there are some coolants that are red in color and your may be that type and just dirty , but the chunks of stuff or particles of any type should not be in coolant system unless you have used that Radiator Stop Leak mess .
If I had stuff floating in my coolant I would change it just for General Purpose so it wasn't in there wandering around , flushing and re-filling would not hurt a seal at all unless your talking about that Radiator Stop Leak mess , in that case a aggressive shop stye compressed air flush may affect that a little bit .
I I have a '91 3VZE motor and the T-Stat is just to the right of the water pump (follow top hose on radiator to motor and it should be there) , only 2 screws and a gasket (which local parts place didn't have -had to get from dealer) , you can use RTV if you wish but I would go with the OEM Gasket.
I think I mentioned in a previous thread to be careful about the temperature of the stat as the recommended stats at Prep Boys and such are inaccurate (they list a 195 degree when it should be 180 degree).
Outside of that it should be very easy to do and if I had chunks of gasket and or anything in my radiator I would definately flush and fill it .
Just remember previous post also , there are some coolants that are red in color and your may be that type and just dirty , but the chunks of stuff or particles of any type should not be in coolant system unless you have used that Radiator Stop Leak mess .
Thanks for the info!
And yes, i used Radiator Stop Leak mess...
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
well did a full coolant flush and oil change, also threw some seafoam in and now im running well except now my idle goes up and down when i brake i know this is a common problem with these so im just going to leave it i think
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
the1998sr5
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
15
07-14-2020 08:35 PM
nframe
3.4 Swaps
3
08-16-2015 09:03 AM
TJWilly
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
6
07-31-2015 02:05 PM
itzmywife's
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
2
07-25-2015 04:55 PM
Avenged
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
4
07-09-2015 07:55 AM