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stock 95 pickup 3.0 very high egts

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Old 10-31-2011, 04:47 PM
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stock 95 pickup 3.0 very high egts

i have a stock 3.0 it was rebuilt about 2000 miles ago and its developed a miss and has very high egts the exhaust heats up very fast after cold crank up. it runs good when i first start driving but once it warms up it feels very sluggish. i put a new set of plugs and new o2 sensor still does it.i also get a code 71 which is a egr temp sensor code dunno if its related. any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Old 11-02-2011, 07:37 AM
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Welcome to Yotatech

Download FSM and troubleshoot.
www.ncttora.com/fsm

Please also don't post multiple threads on same topic.
Duplicates were deleted. Thanks

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Old 11-02-2011, 08:37 AM
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so i pulled the filter out of the egr mod and it was nasty so i left it out and i pulled the tubes and egr valve to check for clogs everything was fine i put it all back on and when i started it up i sucked on the vacum line on egr valve to open it up and it seemed to open up and close but now its running way worse then before it is stumbling very bad at low rpms and backfires when i shift and sounds like a consistant miss at idle. could the egr valve be stuck open now?
Old 11-02-2011, 09:26 AM
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If you connect the wrong vacuum line (constant vacuum) it will hold the EGR open all the time resulting in crappy idle & low power/missing.
Old 11-02-2011, 10:17 AM
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there on there right i checked them and rechecked. the valve is still shut i think i can suck the vacum line and it will go low and almost die and i stop and it goes back to normal idle. its like it went from being lean before i pulled egr to being rich after. it shutters very bad on take off but smooths out some at higher rpm. i had to pull the fuel line on the side of the plenum off to pull egr could that have affected anything? and my exhaust is very choppy sounding after i pulled egr
Old 11-04-2011, 01:10 PM
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95 3.0 misfire

ok so my 95 pickup has been missing and running very lean i was getting code 71 so i pulled egr valves tubes and mod. i had to pull cold start injector line yo get the tube off plenum and i lost one of the crush washers to it and it was leaking and bubbling (very small bubble) on the gas line. i think it was running rich hooked up like this and idle actually smoothed out some (less misfire) but it shuttered very bad in first and second gear. so basically im curious as to why a small gas leak on the csi would cause me to stop running lean and start running rich?

also i replaced crush washer and it went right back to miss and running lean. thanks for any help very much appreciated.

Last edited by turkey; 11-04-2011 at 05:01 PM.
Old 11-04-2011, 05:19 PM
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so i lost a crush washer for the. csi but the leak was so small it took a while to notice it. why would this make it run rich? it actually had smoothed out the miss some
Old 11-05-2011, 07:45 AM
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come on someone i am open to any thoughts i need some help this is my everyday driver and i dont want to keep running lean and burn up a valve on a fresh set of heads
Old 11-05-2011, 09:00 AM
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vacuum gauges

i was wondering where i can get a vacum guage to check my egr vacum and what type of guage do i need to get?
Old 11-05-2011, 09:05 AM
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I mainly use a hand vacuum pump with built in gauge, I think it is a Mityvac brand. Plug it in and use as a gauge-only or you can use the vacuum pump for testing actuators and bleeding brakes, etc.

Old 11-05-2011, 09:12 AM
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where did you get it? does advance or auto zone have any i just need to make sure im pulling a vacum off my throttle body to egr mod.
Old 11-05-2011, 09:17 AM
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Most auto parts stores should carry something like that, I think I got mine from JC Whitney many years ago. There is usually a basic model pump w/o the gauge and then the deluxe kit will have the gauge attached.

Or Amazon:
- http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000.../dp/B00265M9SS
Old 11-05-2011, 09:30 AM
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so i cant just get a guage without a pump to check it? and do you know or have a general estimate as to how much vacum it takes to open an egr?
Old 11-05-2011, 09:49 AM
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Running lean means its the filter thats plugged, or your fuel pump is quitting. its also possible the fuel pressure regulator is failing too. Start cheap with the filter ( under pass. side) then the fuel pressure regulator since its easier. last is the fuel pump, your choice, cut the floor or drop the tank.

last is a set of FI since they may be clogged and cost much more.

Jusat a thought though, you might want to put in a fuel pressure gauge in under the hood to see if you have 44-55psi in the rail. may save you time later down the road.
Old 11-05-2011, 09:54 AM
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Sure you can get a gauge only, but then it is only a single tasking tool. I like tools that can do more than one thing. FSM lists the vacuum readings for the various EGR ports.
Old 11-05-2011, 10:08 AM
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ok thank you for all the info. very much appreciated
Old 11-05-2011, 10:13 AM
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an inline guage? what line would i put it in? and any thought why the tiny leak on the cold start injector fuel line would cause it to start running rich.

while it was leaking i could smell raw gas in the exhaust.

thank you very much for your input this is drivin me nuts.
Old 11-05-2011, 10:15 AM
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if i buy the pump and guage could i test all my vsv's with it?
Old 11-05-2011, 10:21 AM
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:36 AM
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my thoughts exactly lol


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