M@

My 93 T100's rear drums seem rusted to the axle shaft. Is this common and are there anyways to seperate them? I'm thinking about using my propane torch to heat the drum about half way between the lugs and the edge to try and expand the drum enough to let me hammer of drum off.

I should mention that I have never had toyota drums off. So if there is some mystery bolt that the manual doesn't mention let me know. Also I've adjusted the brake adjuster all the way in. You can tell that the drum hasn't moved enough to hit the shoes anyway. I've used a minisledge to tap on the drum and I don't think I should hit it any harder for fear of damaging some axle retainer. Can I swing away at this drum or are there easily damaged parts in the axle that wouldn't normally experience a load like this?

Thoughts?

M@

...and the drum is a waste. It will be replaced so destructive solutions can be tried.

bigarms23

put a lot of wd40 and it should loosen up

CJM

WD40 isnt lube dude, Water Displacement formula 40

Buy some PB blaster, spray it around the studs and backing plate, then bang away in a circular pattern with a large hammer of small sledge around the face of the drum. SHould pop right off, if not take a small pick tool and go into the back of the drum where you can adjust the shoes, find the little wheel and put the pick tool behind it and feel for some tension, if you reliave the tensiopn you can de-adjust the shoes.

M@

bad deal then. I have used PB blaster alot. The drum isn't getting stuck on the pads(atleast not yet).

CJM

You try the hammer? If the hammer dont work, head around the studs, but be carefull not to much.

M@

yeah I've beat this thing pretty hard. I'll keep trying and then spraying. It sounds like it should come off eventually.

CJM

Yea, it should eventually come off-it will be a royal pain though.

nv4runner

There should also be two threaded holes that you can put bolts in to pull the drum off of the axle. if that doesn't work then I suggest you put the lug nuts back on the studs a ways (to clean up the threads if you happen to smack them) and beat the snot out of it in between the studs with a BIG hammer. I had to use a 5 lb ball peen hammer with a 2 foot handle to get the drums off of my dad's 93 suburban. My yota drums only needed the bolts.

bigt

i live in canada and my rusted drum s and axles came off with the 4 nuts and brake lines then just hit them in a circular pattern..slid right out

M@

The holes have the threads so rusted I can't see them. Does anyone know what thread it is? Maybe I can get one to thread in.

M@

I tried compressed air at 140 psi into the holes and it still didn't loosen. Some of the holes have air seeping from them to the luggs now so hopefully it will continue to improve.

The torch method keeps comeing to mind. Rear drums get hot during use don't they? I'm not sure how this could damage the axle shaft or seal. Does anyone have any comments on heating the drum slowly with a small propane torch?

By the way I have removed a small section of the dust shield so I can now hit the drum from the center of the truck. No luck yet though.

M@

Ok so I don't think my torch will get hot enough to make a difference. Either that or it will take too long. I sanded most of the rust off of the part of the axle shaft that I can see, and I put the wheel back on with the torque up pretty high. Hopefully it will squeeze stuff around.

As far as the adjuster. If I turn the nearest part of the adjuster down will that release tension? I think I've gone so far that it won't matter, and I keep being able to turn it more.

CyMoN

you have to adjust them back a lot then use a bolt in the threaded holes I think the bolt that holds the skid plate on is the same size as the threaded hole on the drum.
so you can remove one of those and take it to the hardware store and buy 2 4inch bolts that match that thread get the highest grade bolt.

I have used the bolts from a steering wheel puller before and we had one strip out halfway and it took forever to get the bolt out.

best way is to tighten the two bolts back in forth to push the drum away from the axle.
also make sure your parking brake is not engaged.

M@

I'm sure as of now the drum is not hitting the pads because the drum can freely rotate. If I break loose the drum and it does hit, do I turn the nearest side of the gear down? The manual says clockwise, but those silly Japs didn't consider which way you look at the adjuster.

CyMoN

try smacking it with a rubber mallet on the outer edge of the drum.

M@

Yeah I've been doing that for a week. Well I'm giving up for now due to this:

zlathim

Uh-Oh, looks like trouble. Some dude has removed the cylinder heads and lifted the block halfway out of the engine compartment. I've seen it a thousand times, and it always ends up being followed by a bunch of cussing and throwing tools to get back to normal. Good luck.

linuxrunner

You seem to have misplaced a cylinder... Perhaps it fell on the ground

CyMoN

seems like brakes are the least of your problems.