ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

The brown is the one next to the Coolant Temp that you see in that pic someone posted. If your coolant temp sensor is actually black,....well, that's most likely Napa or another aftermarket CTS. The plug that goes on it is still green, k? The black one sounds to me like the Cold Start Injector plug.... but if it's not, it could be an IACV(Idle Air Control Valve) connector or an AC or Fuel Pressure VSV connector(FPressure VSV is green and blue, usually, from what I remember of most of our 22re's).... AC VSV is black, but usually totally different in looks on the earlier year 22re's.(IOW, it doesn't look like the coolant temp or CSI time switch connector... it's much smaller).

Real quick... Under the Throttle body, do you have an IACV? It should have 2 large vacuum ports, one in front and one in back..... Well, it has a connector on the rear of it, you just can't see it, but you'll surely feel it(granting you have the IACV, which you should).

I will get some pics of my motor and some sensors(even though the 88 is SLIGHTLY different on a couple of the plugs).... and I'll be back with em.(when I have time, k?)

stickmanmitch

Yeah I do have the ICAV, I'll check for a plug on that tomorrow. That would be the black one then, correct?

From what I read the popcorn sound is detonation, so I added octane booster to my gas. I'm going to fix a small coolant leak that could be creating air pockets, and checking the egr system tomorrow. I'll let you know if that and the plug switching/hunting fixes anything. I'll also jumper those terminals and try and reset the timing.

One site that gave me some ideas to try is http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm for reference.

edit: other stuff I checked today: the knock sensor is hooked and has a good connection, and the spark plugs look perfect

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here's a vacuum line video I did for a good guy on here named Lumpy... It might help...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here's another that I think I was looking for............... Done for a guy named Bjork,....so don't think I'm calling you names, k? hahaha.........

stickmanmitch

Thanks for the videos, followed them and went through and checked all the vacuum hoses again. I switched the black for the green sensor, and still can't find the black plug near the BVSV hoses. I re-checked the timing, it's been the best at about 6*BTDC.

But still drives the same. Hard to start from a stop with lots of popping and little power, and will stall out with lots of clutch slip. I don't know what rpm it stops popping at and reving up smooth bc my tach is broken (it doesn't go past 3000k), but then shift to second and it starts popping again. In 4low it runs fine. It does this even cold, so I don't think it's because of overheating or the coolant leak (fixed that too).

I'm getting a compression tester tomorrow the octane booster didn't seem to help if it's even getting in the gas that's burning. It ran without problems before I took it apart, so maybe something went bad over time. Other than that I'm out of ideas.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Seems that maybe your tps is bad. But from the looks of your engine bay, you're using the wrong vacuum lines and your wiring looks super sketch.

stickmanmitch

I'll test the TPS again tomorrow and switch it out with a buddies for good measure and see if I'm still getting the code 11. I know about the wiring, I can hardly drive through puddles without stalling out.

What part of kirkland are you in? I'm usually up in bothell a couple times a year.

stickmanmitch

Pulled off the TPS today and re-tested it. No dead spots, tests out to 4crawler perfectly. Still getting a code 11 and a code 5. I reset the timing to 5* BTDC, but then when I rev up in neutral the timing jumps to about 20* AFTER TDC??? Is this an ECU issue? then when I rev it higher it jumps back the other way to around 25* tdc at higher rpm's. I haven't checked the wires from the ECU from the TPS, maybe the problem is lying there...

I took a video of the timing jump, still trying to figure out where it went on youtube...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Mitch,

The timing DOES, indeed, jump around as you hit the rpms. That's normal. That's why we set it at 5*BTDC/ with TE1 and E1 Jumped/ idling at 750RPM.....

I'm overwhelmed at the moment, info wise, so I need to re-read your first post and what you've done since... I'll be back and see if I can't brainstorm with the likes of some fine Yotatechies like Vitale/etc.! Might not be able to help, but I'll try.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmm, Well, it's clear, that at times, it idles fairly smoothly and on time without missing,....then, under any load, it's "CHUNKIGEWAIAH!" lol.

Interesting that your TPS tested fine... I would have checked that, first thing, as Vitale said(after watching the video, especially). I had one heading south and it did much similar stuff.

Tell me something........... have you adjusted the Air/Fuel Adjustment Screw? It's worth a check to be sure that thing isn't screwed all the way in. Looking at the picture you posted, part one...... I could be wrong, but that Idle Air Screw looks COMPLETELY screwed all the way in. Granted, if you've not touched it, ok, then maybe it ran before and should still,..... BUT, if it's been screwed all the way in, you'll have a hell of a time keeping it running properly. Could you do me a favor and screw that all the way in, then out 2.5 full turns?(Count how many turns it takes to put it all the way down, clockwise, first, k???)

Looking at that picture you posted, part 2; ... HOLY CRAPULA, that's a mess... And I KNOW, we start with what we have and go from there.... Been there, not raggin on ya. But please, get on that, asap, yeah? Vacuum hose at O'Reilly is really cheap(any of them). Don't bother at this point with any of that colored stuff, etc.... Just get some fresh, pliable hoses and swap all that out(2 sizes, for most of it, a 3rd size for the booster/PCV and Breather).

Far as the timing, as long as it's idling at around 750 and reading 5*BTDC at that idle.... I think we need to either look deeper at the actual mechanical timing, after ruling out all the items that effect things are hooked up properly/actually wired in(not having pins backing out the back of the connectors), like Sensors, ECU.

It just really seems like something is building up pressure, then gassing out due to vacuum leak and bogging down at idle, etc. ... So, the first thing to check is that IDLE Air Adjustment Screw, ok?

stickmanmitch

Just to be sure... the IAC screw is the flathead one on the throttle body, not the screw at the end of the cable with the lock nut, correct?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yep, it's a bigger screw that is recessed into a housing in the throttle body. Those get really gummed up in there, and I removed mine and cleaned it out really well in there. DON'T do that, just yet... They have a grommet in there, stock, I believe(???)... At least someone who SHOULD know told me so, lol.... Anyway, yeah, just adjust that screw if it hasn't been and report back..... A "Just in case", ya know?

stickmanmitch

Checked the IAC today. It was screwed all the way in, probably because the dash-pot thing is sticky and the idle doesn't drop all the way back down to where it should be all the time (could be why). I unscrewed it the two and a half turns. Rechecked the drivers kick panel fuses and found the ECU fuse was blown. I replaced that and that fixed some of the timing issues I had with the TPS and had no CEL anymore!

BUT, when I would jumper the terminals for timing, I got a code 3, 4, and 5 at different times with no CEL on. The idle and timing audibly and visibly drop now though when the jumper is connected. So I reset the timing to 5* BTDC and it doesen't jump way back anymore when I rev it up. Taking it for a test drive, the engine has a lot more power and isn't hesitating as much, but I still have the popping/backfiring under load at low rpms. Still a definite improvement. Tried retarding the timing still but it didn't fix the problem and just bogged the engine down and made it worse. Advancing didn't really help much either. I did a compression test and got 119, 129, 126, and 120, probably because the rings haven't set yet. I'm beginning to think the timing chain could be one link off and opening the exhaust valves too soon? I'm going to do more reading and testing and try to figure it out.

I also tested the coolant temp sensor and cold start time switch, both tested perfect with a warm engine, I'll try it again cold and see what it says.

One other weird thing that happened a couple times was when trying to start the engine cold. I had the timing light hooked up but it missed a few times, but once it started it never happened again.

I'm also still having a hard time starting the engine but it's getting easier every day, maybe because the engine still isn't broken in? Or a slow fuel pressure leak somewhere? Cold start injector issues?

Can someone also help me with the FSM ECU diagnosis, do I leave the wires plugged in and put the multimeter leads in from the bottom? Do I unplug the plugs and test the wires (what I have been doing but haven't got any results close to what they should be), or plug directly into the ecu?

Getting closer and closer every day...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Right on, way to persevere..... but DON'T GIVE UP OR SETTLE, YA HEAH? LOL.

ECU testing is not that intimidating once you dive in and check through the AFM, TPS., etc., etc., a few times. There are two tests, one for voltage and one for resistance. In one test you test from behind the pins/still connected. The other is with it disconnected.

Keep reading in the FSM and you'll get to the secondary testing... but first if you look in the intro, it will explain that there are two things you're going to test for. One is for voltage, one is resistance, it says so(maybe in other words.... but not likely, lol).

I have this, what you're about to dive into, well documented in my troubleshooting and build threads, both in my signature. The build thread is over 3500 posts... so start with the troubleshooting one, you should find the Pictures and Paint Shop results from ECU testing and you'll know you're in the right area.

I went through NIGHTMARISH troubleshooting, Bud, .... just trust me when I tell you that 'you're not alone', lol.

Keep at it,

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Many might get confused by the "IAC" notation.... it's too much like IACV(idle air control valve) AKA- AAV(Auxiliary Air Valve in the FSM), with works WITH the "Fuel/Air Adjustment Screw".... but is not the same thing. Before I go on in this one... Does the FSM call it IAC? hahahaha. If so, I would still just call it "Idle Air Adjustment Screw" or "Air/Fuel Adjustment Screw".

PSS> I had an intermittent issue that drove me crazy... When i'd let it sit for a bit, it'd start right up...... it was the C.O.R.(Circuit Open Relay).... Which is in the kick panel near the glove/ECU... It was getting hot, due to a windshield leak that had consequently caused BAD corrosion in the C.O.R., thus causing it to overheat and TRIP!(it would NOT start under hot soak, and even began to stall).... My point in mentioning this is that, well, many will say, "Nope, the COR just goes out"... NONSENSE, and so, my point,..... ALWAYS look a lil deeper than the first couple responses, ESPECIALLY MINE, lol... and ALWAYS trust firstly the Guru's like Roger(4crawler.com).... Go through his troubleshooting and you'll save yourself LOTS of guessing, etc. (I'm sure you've been fishing through his stuff... but trust me, we miss things, am I right? lol.... I went through the TPS thing 3 TIMES before I realized that I was checking one step improperly.... Had I caught that, I would have saved myself another 20 hours of fishing into things that were NOT the issue, ya feel me?)

sebastianholmes

i have this gut feeling that your distributor is off one tooth

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah,... we did go over that but AGAIN, it's very possible to miss things/mis-read "I got it right!"....when it's actually not. But hey, he's even questioning the alignement/assembly of the timing gears/chain.... so yes, it might be worth it to yoink the valve cover, get it to EXACTLY TDC on compression stroke, take at look at that dizzy gear and make SURE that dimple is at 11:55, exactly one notch before the cam's-dizzy drive gear. It's definitely worth another look before ripping the dang timing cover off again, eh?

You'll get it!

stickmanmitch

Tried that both ways... It just made the problem worse. Last time I set the distributor I took the valve cover off, dot was at 11:55 with the piston at absolute top looking at it with a spark plug out. And the timing is at 5* BTDC with the timing light. I was reading about the chain being off a link and I don't think that's it... I think it's another electrical issue.

My truck did sit for a while with TORRENTIAL rains, like a foot and a half over november, and the weatherstripping is gone on the outside of the windshield. I'll definitely check that circuit opening relay next. (Do you know what it does btw? I read some stuff about somewhat similar problems people were having that recommended testing it.)

I was checking voltage with the ecu unplugged, should I have been checking resistance? I'll read through the manual again and your threads.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

The C.O.R. is a relay, that, when you turn the ignition to almost 'START'(where it actually begins cranking), it throws power to the fuel pump. It's not some hugely complicated unit.... just a box-relay, like many in here... But it CAN cause problems. 4crawler.com, Roger covers the C.O.R., I'm pretty sure. Just google "4crawler, COR, cheap tricks".... and it will get you, if you can fish around ok, to a section which helps rule out fuel pump relay/AFM/etc., type issues. You can also google "4crawler, TPS" and "4crawler, Timing Chain", ..... which I think you said you've touched on, somewhere above in your posts(sorry, just a bit overwhelmed right now, ...lil nuts at the moment, lol).

Far as the ECU, like I said, there are resistance tests and voltage. Many of the tests tell you how the ECU is relaying stuff.... Other's simply read the voltage or resistance between 'WHATEVER SENSOR/COMPONENT' that's in question and the ECU, which helps narrow down 'WIRING GREMLIN' issues, ya know? (Cuz it's telling you if it's simply something in the harness between the two). Example; If you're reading really good readings from the AFM, directly... .And then, you test the AFM at the ECU and it's WAY OFF, ....Hmmmm, would probably be 'wiring issues'. ECU issues are much more rare. But, it's a quick check if you have a spare of the same year/model, ya know? Most testing done there is actually to test the rest of the rig/wiring, ya know?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here's a couple reads for ya.;

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-cor-235993/


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...wiring-235292/

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml