Pumpkinyota

Also, 22R timing guides from '80 to '82 were steel. You can pick these up pretty easily, and they slap right in.

Pumpkinyota

Let me give you a word of advice:

If the inside of your cylinder looks like that, and the PO didn't drive it for 6 months, that water and coolant is all over the inside of that block. You will hate yourself in 10,000 miles if you just clean up the top end and bolt it back together. You basically have two good options:

1) Buy a rebuilt motor, from Attarco or the like. You are looking at 650-750$ for this, but you get a newly re-built motor very quickly, and you can slap it right in with no problems and no further work to engine internals. Attach, tune up, slap in some belts and plug wires, and drive off.

2) Pull your motor and rebuild it. Your crank bearings are dubious after marinating in coolant for 6 months, and so are you rings, cam bearings, cylinder walls, etc. This will cost anything from 450$ to $2,000, depending on how crazy you get during the rebuild. An average rebuild with moderately good parts will cost you about $600.

For most armchair mechanics, the smart money is on the rebuilt motor, instead of re-building your own. Re-building your own is wonderful, if you have the tools, space, time, and money to do it well. I have done both, and if you just want to get a running truck in a hurry, grab the rebuilt from Attarco, you can't lose.

tried4x2signN

Whoops... good catch... But they're all the same... (AFAIK) 79-83

I also agree... BUT, some ppl don't have time and money as an option...

It's nice that the 22R is an engine that can go 10,000 in that condition though... if it had to...


Another option is to just pull the pistons and glaze break it...

You can put lower bearings in and new rings, and just pay to have the head reworked...

Easy and doable... and cheap...

I love these motors...

Damngit! Profanity warning,,, guy drops the F bomb...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89AxuhEHc3o

MortonPhotographic

Pumkinyota, thanks, that is what I am thinking. Basically I don't have much trust in what the OP said. He was a nice guy, but I never trust what anyone says when they are trying to sell me something.

I just can't do all the work on top and let this mess go on the bottom. For me, having this one rebuilt, or getting a remanufactured one is the only way to go.

So my top choices are autospecengines.com which is here in AZ, has a 2 year warranty, and I talked to Phan and he said he can use metal valve guides and timing chain guide for a little extra. He is out of cores so he will actually rebuild mine--which I kinda like for some reason. Also, I am gonna spring $150 extra for a new head, as long as it is a new casting.

I also have another builder here in AZ getting me a quote on a Jordan remanufactured longblock. Somehow I think this will be in the $1500 range.

And Attarco is something I will look into.

Basically, I just want it done right so I don't get stranded when I am out in the desert!

MortonPhotographic

So new rings for sure... but are those pistons any good???

MortonPhotographic

I just went to Attarco's site... they say their 22RE is new, and they don't want a core. New?

MortonPhotographic

This was the reply I got within a few hours from Attarco.

"The engine is a brand new engine. The valve guides are metal, the timing guides are the stock plastic. The engine comes with a 6 month warranty. Shipping to a business with a forklift or loading dock to unload the engine from a freight truck, or shipping to the freight terminal for pick up will be $125."

Wow, this sounds really good. But I can't change out the timing chain guide without pulling the front cover and head, correct? If so I think I would just leave it.

MortonPhotographic

One of the bolt holes on my intake manifold is broken. No big deal but I figured I would get a new one if I could find one cheap. So I look on Craigslist and there is one for $25! Sweet! I e-mailed and got a reply this evening...

"Sorry, went off to scrap today."

Bummer! What a waste!

MortonPhotographic

I got the engine out completely and did some pressure washing. I got a little ahead of myself when pulling the engine and forgot to take off the hood. Then I got it all the way up and the lower part of the oil pan wouldn't clear the core support--it was actually pretty funny as I held up the hood and then just lifted the back end of the engine over the core support!

This engine was trashed IMHO. There were metal shavings in the pick up and the bottom of the oil pan was just mud and muck! No problem though. By taking my time and listening to the advice on this site I have everything read to go to autospecengines.com. I went down there and talked to Phan. He is a great guy and I like what I see. He will upgrade to a new casting head, metal valve guides and metal timing chain guide for reasonable money.

Wish me luck!

Pumpkinyota

Sorry for the lack of replies, I have been SWAMPED for weeks now...

You can change the TC guides without pulling the head, all you need to pull is the timing cover. If you wanted, you could get away with a lot of mileage without replacing those guides though. On the flip side, the easiest time to replace the guides would be with the motor out, so its a 50/50 wash...

Pumpkinyota

Pistons are probably fine, but you should probably replace your rings and re-hone the cylinders.

MortonPhotographic

No problem man, thanks for all the input! I am just excited to be moving forward.

Hey, is there a place you like to get part from? Like power steering hoses and transmission mount...

Oh, and is there a radiator upgrade? I have searched a few times but can't find anything. And then there is the question of clutch fan over electric.

Sorry to keep asking! 8)

Pumpkinyota

As far as parts houses, I have always had fairly good success with Kragen/CSK and Napa. There are some online sources that are reputed to be excellent, the only one that I have had any personal dealings with is LC Engineering. They have a premium product, and great customer support, but sometimes you pay a premium price for their product. Still and all, my experiences with them have been awesome.

As far as clutch fan vs electric, I suppose this question depends on your usage. Clutch fans are very reliable, I have never personally had one fail. Electric fans allow you a little more finite control, and are better if you will be at idle or low speeds for long periods of time.

There are some radiator upgrades, I have stumbled across them from time to time, but I have never used any and could not offer any advice here.

hilandfrog

I "think" the v-6 jobs have a bolt in 3 core that may be used w/ a 22re:dunno

Anyone.....

Bueler

Repo

MortonPhotographic

What's left of my 22re is down at Autospec... Head was totaly cracked and had been milled too many times. The rust was too deep into the block si Phan suggested another one--I'm not gonna half ass it like the PO did.

Gonna go down and shoot pics when he builds it!

MortonPhotographic

Guess what I got today...

92 TOY

make that bigger than a thumbnail....this ain't small stuff anymore........this is the good stuff now.....i want full page.....full screen YOTA PRON.

MortonPhotographic

How do you do that here? You can click on it and it blow up, right? I would like to post fullsize pics though.

92 TOY

if you are using photobucket choose the IMG code rather than the THUMBNAIL one.

MortonPhotographic

I just upload them from my computer. I will have to put them on Flickr or get a Photobucket account I guess. Thanks for the info!