Aisin Carb Electric Choke Problems
#1
Aisin Carb Electric Choke Problems
Hello,
I have a 1982 Toyota Pickup with a 22r motor. I just recently de-smogged the motor and installed 4 block plates. When I reconnected my carb I hooked up all fuel lines. I then went and ran two lines from my vacuum advance. One went to the lower part of the carb on the passenger side and the other went to the upper part of the carb. Another three lines were ran from the bvsv to the choke opener, aap, and another part also on the drivers side of the carb. When I start the truck it idle's very high. I tried retarding the timing all of the way. Yet this has yielded minor results. The real problem is that the "butterfly???" valve on the passenger side of the top of the carb will not close up at all when the engine warms up. It just stays open. You can move it by hand but it will just go back again to the open position again. It seems to me that the electric choke isn't working. When I remove the line going from the vacuum advance to the lower part of the carb on the passenger side, the idle speed does go down a little. When I reconnect it, it goes right back up again. Help! I need to figure out how to get the engine to idle back around the normal speed it did before my modifications.
Jevo
I have a 1982 Toyota Pickup with a 22r motor. I just recently de-smogged the motor and installed 4 block plates. When I reconnected my carb I hooked up all fuel lines. I then went and ran two lines from my vacuum advance. One went to the lower part of the carb on the passenger side and the other went to the upper part of the carb. Another three lines were ran from the bvsv to the choke opener, aap, and another part also on the drivers side of the carb. When I start the truck it idle's very high. I tried retarding the timing all of the way. Yet this has yielded minor results. The real problem is that the "butterfly???" valve on the passenger side of the top of the carb will not close up at all when the engine warms up. It just stays open. You can move it by hand but it will just go back again to the open position again. It seems to me that the electric choke isn't working. When I remove the line going from the vacuum advance to the lower part of the carb on the passenger side, the idle speed does go down a little. When I reconnect it, it goes right back up again. Help! I need to figure out how to get the engine to idle back around the normal speed it did before my modifications.
Jevo
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Edgewater Colorado
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Is the plug for the idle mixture screw already removed? Have you tried just adjusting the idle down with the idle speed screw? You were probably disconnecting the vacuum advance on the distributor when the idle went down a bit, its supposed to do that. Thats why you disconnect it and plug it when your doing timing. Also you said when you start the truck it idles high? If its cold its gonna do that until it gets to temp, then it should idle down. make sure its warmed up before you mess with the mix screw, speed screw, and the timing.
#3
Registered User
??? electric choke only helps close the butterflies once it warms up the choke loosens and allows the butterflies to open. They should not be closed at all when the engine is warm . Did it idle high before removing the EGR etc etc? One of those vacum lines (rear most) on the distributer is supposed to be connected to a vsv not to the carb. The vsv allows vacuum to that port to retard the timing while the engine is cold, once warmed up it takes away the vacuum allowing the distributor full advance from the regular vacuum advance from the carb. If anything you can run it blocked off just like us with the webers have to do.
#4
@xxxtreme22r
the butterfly on the top passenger side of the carb always stays open now that i desmogged the engine and i have no idea why. Even when the motor reaches temp, it will still stay open. It did not idle high before the egr was removed. By vsv do you mean bvsv? What are you telling me to block off?
@deadrabbitsyota the idle mixture screw plug???? not sure what that is. I've tried adjusting the idle speed screw with no effect after the engine has reached temp.
I just ran this truck on a 5 hour round trip on the highway going an avg of 75 mph. It was hard to keep at any given speed due to the erratic function of the carb. It only seemed to run well with the foot to the floor. As a result, i suffered decreased gas mileage. I will try hooking the vaccum advance (rearward) to the bvsv to determine if that is the problem.
the butterfly on the top passenger side of the carb always stays open now that i desmogged the engine and i have no idea why. Even when the motor reaches temp, it will still stay open. It did not idle high before the egr was removed. By vsv do you mean bvsv? What are you telling me to block off?
@deadrabbitsyota the idle mixture screw plug???? not sure what that is. I've tried adjusting the idle speed screw with no effect after the engine has reached temp.
I just ran this truck on a 5 hour round trip on the highway going an avg of 75 mph. It was hard to keep at any given speed due to the erratic function of the carb. It only seemed to run well with the foot to the floor. As a result, i suffered decreased gas mileage. I will try hooking the vaccum advance (rearward) to the bvsv to determine if that is the problem.
#5
Registered User
take look at this site.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
It's been a while since I have had my factory carb on my truck and don't have it anymore to look, but I believe both top choke plates are connected by the same rod and other then mechanical failure of the carb, there is no reason why they should move independently of each other.
I sounds as though your surprised that it stays open when warm when you say "even when it's warm it stays open." Which leads me to believe you think it should be closed when warm, when that is not the case.
The high idle can be caused by a missed or crossed vacuum line causing a vacuum leak which ends up having the truck idle high. Does it idle high both when cold and warm?
P.S. What size tires and gears are you running on your truck. Even with a rebuilt engine these truck generally do like to run on the highway on any types of inclines as they don't have alot of power to begin with. Especially when running bigger tires without regearing.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
It's been a while since I have had my factory carb on my truck and don't have it anymore to look, but I believe both top choke plates are connected by the same rod and other then mechanical failure of the carb, there is no reason why they should move independently of each other.
I sounds as though your surprised that it stays open when warm when you say "even when it's warm it stays open." Which leads me to believe you think it should be closed when warm, when that is not the case.
The high idle can be caused by a missed or crossed vacuum line causing a vacuum leak which ends up having the truck idle high. Does it idle high both when cold and warm?
P.S. What size tires and gears are you running on your truck. Even with a rebuilt engine these truck generally do like to run on the highway on any types of inclines as they don't have alot of power to begin with. Especially when running bigger tires without regearing.
#6
My bad on not understanding that the valves should open when warm. But they do move independently of one another. I've tried re-routing some lines but with no success. The truck is a 2wheel drive and has 14 inch mud tires. Nothing special here. I really need a diagram to show me what I need to hook back up to my stock carb and how after desmogging it.
take look at this site.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
It's been a while since I have had my factory carb on my truck and don't have it anymore to look, but I believe both top choke plates are connected by the same rod and other then mechanical failure of the carb, there is no reason why they should move independently of each other.
I sounds as though your surprised that it stays open when warm when you say "even when it's warm it stays open." Which leads me to believe you think it should be closed when warm, when that is not the case.
The high idle can be caused by a missed or crossed vacuum line causing a vacuum leak which ends up having the truck idle high. Does it idle high both when cold and warm?
P.S. What size tires and gears are you running on your truck. Even with a rebuilt engine these truck generally do like to run on the highway on any types of inclines as they don't have alot of power to begin with. Especially when running bigger tires without regearing.
http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
It's been a while since I have had my factory carb on my truck and don't have it anymore to look, but I believe both top choke plates are connected by the same rod and other then mechanical failure of the carb, there is no reason why they should move independently of each other.
I sounds as though your surprised that it stays open when warm when you say "even when it's warm it stays open." Which leads me to believe you think it should be closed when warm, when that is not the case.
The high idle can be caused by a missed or crossed vacuum line causing a vacuum leak which ends up having the truck idle high. Does it idle high both when cold and warm?
P.S. What size tires and gears are you running on your truck. Even with a rebuilt engine these truck generally do like to run on the highway on any types of inclines as they don't have alot of power to begin with. Especially when running bigger tires without regearing.
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