banditbuggy145

I need to replace the rear diff cover on my 95 pickup SR5 because the road salt has eaten through the stock one. I just got the new cover from Barnes 4wd. As i have to pull all the internals of the axle out anyways, I'm wondering if i should replace any seals(mainly the axle seals) while im in there? Oil isnt leaking anywhere but from the diff cover (as of right now). Truck has 110K miles on it, but i dont want to have to do this job again. Was wondering if i should go ahead and get them from autozone as there are only about 6 bucks each.

waskillywabbit

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MudHippy

He's talking about major axle housing modification type "rear diff cover". As in...




http://www.barnes4wd.com/Toyota-Heav...ver_p_228.html

waskillywabbit

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banditbuggy145

That would be exactly what im talking about. People patch the stock housing with jb weld and other epoxies, but once it starts rusting it keeps going. Also, i've heard that if it rusts out(you have moisture in the housing). I bought the truck used over the summer, and have already changed the oil and cleaned the breather, but it wouldnt hurt to inspect the inside. I've heard these axle seals are very delicate(when removing and installing axle shafts). Just want to have everything ahead of time so im not out an axle for more than a day. I will try to be aware of warping the axle. I doubt it would warp, but i'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully getting it all done tomorrow, but we'll see.

Huckm80

Hey, how did it go welding on that diff cover? I don't see the axle housing warping as long as one welds a small section at a time and cooling it off between welds. They did it at the factory.

I'm trying to find a solution to my friends rusted rear diff on his 2000 tundra. I can't find a pre-made cover like the one you got. That company doesn't make one for the tundra.

I guess I'll be fabricating my own one! Do you have any tips from your experience.

banditbuggy145

Well i didnt have to worry too much about warping cause i only have a 120v welder. I had it cranked all the way to weld the cover on. i believe the barnes cover was made out of 3/16 plate(so its damn strong),but if its for a daily driver i dont think it needs to be that thick. The stock one isnt anywheres near 3/16, but i would probably go with 1/8 at a min. If you make your own just make sure you leave enough space for the pumpkin and oil. Also, with the barnes cover, the edges of the cover that you weld to the housing aren't really at a great angle to weld, so some grinding was needed to get it the way i wanted it. So if you make your own cover just keep this angle in mind(do a 45 or a 90 for that piece just to simplify things). Also dont be too afraid to make a couple passes with the welder ( the cover isn't really for strength especially on a DD), but you want to be sure you have it sealed. To make it easier you could model the look of the barnes one and start tacking pieces to the housing and work away from the housing then finish weld. Some people have done this repair without taking the pumpkin out and just draining the oil and brake cleaner, but its much easier to work on when its completely apart especially if you are making a custom cover. I managed to get away with using the old axle seals as they werent leaking. While your there might as well do the brake lines(if they're lookin old).