What a day! CV joint experiance! BUILD UP THREAD...LOL
#21
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I didnt rub, I had 8" wide wheels.. Had I had 10" wheels it would have rubbed. The instructions even call for 8" wide wheel with BS not to exceed 3.5", mine are 3.75", but it works..
I dont think you demonstrated it well... let me try to do it with words.. as its hard to draw with alphanemerics...
sine the BS is only .1 different I will talk about them as if they are the same...
Yes on both rims the inside of the tire will be at the same point. Then the 10" wide wheel is 2" wider at the outer edge, Since the tire must center on the rim the outer edge will be 2" further. The center of the tire is only moved 1".. Make sence?? So when I had 33's, or even now with my 35's, the only place I ever came close to rubbing was the pinch weld, at full turn. The part that almost rubs is the edge of the tread. One my 33's (33.7" tall TSL's) and my 35's I had to do some pinchweld smashing... But if the tires had been on a 10" rim and the lugs had been 2" further out I would not even have been able to turn fully because the tread would have hit the pinch weld about 1.5" from the edge of the tire...
Its the outer edge that you have to worry about on our rigs, its really the only place rubbing occurs... You can also think of it this way.. If you had two 8" rims but one had 3.75"BS and one had 1.75" BS, the one with 1.75" BS would rub really badly on the picnch weld, on the 1.75" BS tire the outer edge of the tire is in the same location realative to the hub as a 15x10 with 3.75" BS is...
Toyota guys dont run 15x8's just cuz they look better.. they run them because its what is needed to fit the tire properlly. A 12.50 wide tire wears much better on a 10" wheel.. but you wont fit it in the same place you can with a 8" wheel.
I dont think you demonstrated it well... let me try to do it with words.. as its hard to draw with alphanemerics...
sine the BS is only .1 different I will talk about them as if they are the same...
Yes on both rims the inside of the tire will be at the same point. Then the 10" wide wheel is 2" wider at the outer edge, Since the tire must center on the rim the outer edge will be 2" further. The center of the tire is only moved 1".. Make sence?? So when I had 33's, or even now with my 35's, the only place I ever came close to rubbing was the pinch weld, at full turn. The part that almost rubs is the edge of the tread. One my 33's (33.7" tall TSL's) and my 35's I had to do some pinchweld smashing... But if the tires had been on a 10" rim and the lugs had been 2" further out I would not even have been able to turn fully because the tread would have hit the pinch weld about 1.5" from the edge of the tire...
Its the outer edge that you have to worry about on our rigs, its really the only place rubbing occurs... You can also think of it this way.. If you had two 8" rims but one had 3.75"BS and one had 1.75" BS, the one with 1.75" BS would rub really badly on the picnch weld, on the 1.75" BS tire the outer edge of the tire is in the same location realative to the hub as a 15x10 with 3.75" BS is...
Toyota guys dont run 15x8's just cuz they look better.. they run them because its what is needed to fit the tire properlly. A 12.50 wide tire wears much better on a 10" wheel.. but you wont fit it in the same place you can with a 8" wheel.
#22
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I didnt rub, I had 8" wide wheels.. Had I had 10" wheels it would have rubbed. The instructions even call for 8" wide wheel with BS not to exceed 3.5", mine are 3.75", but it works..
I dont think you demonstrated it well... let me try to do it with words.. as its hard to draw with alphanemerics...
sine the BS is only .1 different I will talk about them as if they are the same...
Yes on both rims the inside of the tire will be at the same point. Then the 10" wide wheel is 2" wider at the outer edge, Since the tire must center on the rim the outer edge will be 2" further. The center of the tire is only moved 1".. Make sence?? So when I had 33's, or even now with my 35's, the only place I ever came close to rubbing was the pinch weld, at full turn. The part that almost rubs is the edge of the tread. One my 33's (33.7" tall TSL's) and my 35's I had to do some pinchweld smashing... But if the tires had been on a 10" rim and the lugs had been 2" further out I would not even have been able to turn fully because the tread would have hit the pinch weld about 1.5" from the edge of the tire...
Its the outer edge that you have to worry about on our rigs, its really the only place rubbing occurs... You can also think of it this way.. If you had two 8" rims but one had 3.75"BS and one had 1.75" BS, the one with 1.75" BS would rub really badly on the picnch weld, on the 1.75" BS tire the outer edge of the tire is in the same location realative to the hub as a 15x10 with 3.75" BS is...
Toyota guys dont run 15x8's just cuz they look better.. they run them because its what is needed to fit the tire properlly. A 12.50 wide tire wears much better on a 10" wheel.. but you wont fit it in the same place you can with a 8" wheel.
I dont think you demonstrated it well... let me try to do it with words.. as its hard to draw with alphanemerics...
sine the BS is only .1 different I will talk about them as if they are the same...
Yes on both rims the inside of the tire will be at the same point. Then the 10" wide wheel is 2" wider at the outer edge, Since the tire must center on the rim the outer edge will be 2" further. The center of the tire is only moved 1".. Make sence?? So when I had 33's, or even now with my 35's, the only place I ever came close to rubbing was the pinch weld, at full turn. The part that almost rubs is the edge of the tread. One my 33's (33.7" tall TSL's) and my 35's I had to do some pinchweld smashing... But if the tires had been on a 10" rim and the lugs had been 2" further out I would not even have been able to turn fully because the tread would have hit the pinch weld about 1.5" from the edge of the tire...
Its the outer edge that you have to worry about on our rigs, its really the only place rubbing occurs... You can also think of it this way.. If you had two 8" rims but one had 3.75"BS and one had 1.75" BS, the one with 1.75" BS would rub really badly on the picnch weld, on the 1.75" BS tire the outer edge of the tire is in the same location realative to the hub as a 15x10 with 3.75" BS is...
Toyota guys dont run 15x8's just cuz they look better.. they run them because its what is needed to fit the tire properlly. A 12.50 wide tire wears much better on a 10" wheel.. but you wont fit it in the same place you can with a 8" wheel.
If you go back to the diagram and imagine that the symbol } is the inside of the rims that are the same in relation to the vehicle, then count the symbol - those represent inches. The symbol ] is the outside edge of the tire with the correct number of - between the rim and edge of tire.
Last edited by slosurfer; 10-19-2006 at 02:23 PM.
#23
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Yeah, i see what you are saying, I think it moves a bit more that 1", probally not a full 2". The tread width cannot change, but location can.. the side wall on a 10" rim is moved 2" or so.. the tread follows, and splits the difference... I may have not been super clear decyphering between sidewall and tread..
The section width of the tire will be different, your diagram shows them the same.. thats why i disagree with your diagram.
Take my 35's, on a 10" rim they are advertised to have a 12.5" section width, on my 8" rims I would guess its about 10 - 11".. and with the extra width you get a tire that is about 2" wider.. You actually have a little more clearance on the inside too..
_hub___(---[--------]---) 8"
_hub____(--[----------]--) 10"
thats a little closer... but still hard to say the exact amount.
A 12.50 wide tire on a 8" rim has a bowed tread at x psi, a 12.50 tire on a 10" will have a much flatter tread at x psi..
EDIT: Looking at your diagram its backwords from mine and now I realize they are the same... I was just thinking inside out, you were thinking outside in
So really were thinking the same, just minute differences in numbers... and each tire size/brand will be different.. my point is that tires that dont rub with a 8" wheel will probally rub with a 10" wheel.. not to mention the 8" wheel holds a bead better.
The section width of the tire will be different, your diagram shows them the same.. thats why i disagree with your diagram.
Take my 35's, on a 10" rim they are advertised to have a 12.5" section width, on my 8" rims I would guess its about 10 - 11".. and with the extra width you get a tire that is about 2" wider.. You actually have a little more clearance on the inside too..
_hub___(---[--------]---) 8"
_hub____(--[----------]--) 10"
thats a little closer... but still hard to say the exact amount.
A 12.50 wide tire on a 8" rim has a bowed tread at x psi, a 12.50 tire on a 10" will have a much flatter tread at x psi..
EDIT: Looking at your diagram its backwords from mine and now I realize they are the same... I was just thinking inside out, you were thinking outside in
So really were thinking the same, just minute differences in numbers... and each tire size/brand will be different.. my point is that tires that dont rub with a 8" wheel will probally rub with a 10" wheel.. not to mention the 8" wheel holds a bead better.
Last edited by AH64ID; 10-19-2006 at 02:43 PM.
#24
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Ha, ha, yeah I had a heck of a time doing that diagram. Everytime I got it done I would post it and it would just move it all the way to the side. I was thinking that just the sidewall bulge would be different not the actual tire tread width, but I could see how it could be slightly different. I agree that the 1"-2" difference is more than enough to get much more rubbing. I like these kind of conversations, it makes me think and learn stuff all at the same time.
#25
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Ha, ha, yeah I had a heck of a time doing that diagram. Everytime I got it done I would post it and it would just move it all the way to the side. I was thinking that just the sidewall bulge would be different not the actual tire tread width, but I could see how it could be slightly different. I agree that the 1"-2" difference is more than enough to get much more rubbing. I like these kind of conversations, it makes me think and learn stuff all at the same time.
#26
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Either way I will see just "how much" the tires will rub. From there like I said earlier I can make some changes to the frame or where ever it rubs at.
Not a big deal to me.
Imagine how much my Supra rubbed at full lock:
Rubbing is the least of my worries.
Not a big deal to me.
Imagine how much my Supra rubbed at full lock:
Rubbing is the least of my worries.
#29
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All the parts are in. I just need to settle on some tires, still juggling the idea around of different brands and prices.
Pretty deep lip. Just what i wanted!
I will primer/paint the fender flares, and see if I can retain the stock mud flaps, but thats after I see how far the tires stick out. If the new backspacing/offset sits the tires/wheel out too far the mudflaps will:
1. Look Stupid
2. Be useless
I will most likely have to remove the mudflaps and step rail ends (those plastic things which have broken clips anyways). Probably fab up some custom side step rails.
-Jonathan
Pretty deep lip. Just what i wanted!
I will primer/paint the fender flares, and see if I can retain the stock mud flaps, but thats after I see how far the tires stick out. If the new backspacing/offset sits the tires/wheel out too far the mudflaps will:
1. Look Stupid
2. Be useless
I will most likely have to remove the mudflaps and step rail ends (those plastic things which have broken clips anyways). Probably fab up some custom side step rails.
-Jonathan
Last edited by Simann; 10-23-2006 at 01:30 PM.
#30
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Update:
I've had alot of tests and studying to do for school so I still have not put on the lift kit yet. Bummer.
But, after a 5 hour escapade (by myself) I finally managed to put on the two front CV axles.
Although I was plannig to put on the entire lift kit and all the other goodies today, I figured after I felt like a cow patty that I might want to save the other fun for later in the week.
-Jonathan
I've had alot of tests and studying to do for school so I still have not put on the lift kit yet. Bummer.
But, after a 5 hour escapade (by myself) I finally managed to put on the two front CV axles.
Although I was plannig to put on the entire lift kit and all the other goodies today, I figured after I felt like a cow patty that I might want to save the other fun for later in the week.
-Jonathan
Last edited by Simann; 11-08-2006 at 02:02 PM.
#31
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Would anyone be interested in buying my wheels? The polished aluminum Eagle alloys in my pics above. 5" lip, 4runner 6 lug bolt pattern. 15x10.
$300+shipping.
I paid $360 shipped to my address. But that was from Morsville N.C. to TN.
They are still in their boxes, came with new lugs and wheel centers. I just need some cash for X-mas.
-Jonathan
$300+shipping.
I paid $360 shipped to my address. But that was from Morsville N.C. to TN.
They are still in their boxes, came with new lugs and wheel centers. I just need some cash for X-mas.
-Jonathan
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