Well, I'm back with a new project:)
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Well, I'm back with a new project:)
I'm going to be needing some help with this one
My boss's, fathers RIP 1987 Toyota pickup 22r. I have it at my house now and will be working on it a bit at a time...
The issue that was reported to me was. The engine ran hot, blowing white smoke out the exhaust (in my mind, sounds like a classic blown head gasket) and was shut down. The engine has over 200,000 on the clock. The information was given to me as to what happened and that is all I know at this point.
The truck was delivered to my house with the engine in the bed and almost all external parts removed I know that this will make it a bit easier for me, however if you work on engines like I do...it's really nice to have the engine still in the vehicle before starting to diagnosis what is causing or caused the issue.
I will do a cylinder compression leak down test once I get the engine on the stand in a few weeks and go from there...
I will need help with what external components with the correct bolts, go in it's proper place ect, when I get to that episode.
Sooooo here we go....
I have also read that the timing chain cover guides will burn a hole in the cover, causing fluid to leak in the pan, however there must be fluid in the cylinders or cylinder too...I have some investigating to do within the next few weeks.
Currently, I've got to complete my Mercruiser engine rebuild so I can get it back in the boat, then I'll check out the yota
thanks or any input
My boss's, fathers RIP 1987 Toyota pickup 22r. I have it at my house now and will be working on it a bit at a time...
The issue that was reported to me was. The engine ran hot, blowing white smoke out the exhaust (in my mind, sounds like a classic blown head gasket) and was shut down. The engine has over 200,000 on the clock. The information was given to me as to what happened and that is all I know at this point.
The truck was delivered to my house with the engine in the bed and almost all external parts removed I know that this will make it a bit easier for me, however if you work on engines like I do...it's really nice to have the engine still in the vehicle before starting to diagnosis what is causing or caused the issue.
I will do a cylinder compression leak down test once I get the engine on the stand in a few weeks and go from there...
I will need help with what external components with the correct bolts, go in it's proper place ect, when I get to that episode.
Sooooo here we go....
I have also read that the timing chain cover guides will burn a hole in the cover, causing fluid to leak in the pan, however there must be fluid in the cylinders or cylinder too...I have some investigating to do within the next few weeks.
Currently, I've got to complete my Mercruiser engine rebuild so I can get it back in the boat, then I'll check out the yota
thanks or any input
Last edited by buckz6319; 04-02-2015 at 02:21 AM.
#2
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Aww, just pull it apart
Get a head gasket, surface the head, maybe a valve job, chain & guide set.
Assemble, install, adjust and rock on.
After all..........
Assemble, install, adjust and rock on.
After all..........
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thanks for the input, but first I need to evaluate the condition of the internals and go from there. I don't want to waste his money, if the engine need a total rebuild. I will pull the pan too and check the bottom main bearing to see what they and the journals look like...
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Since it's sat partially assembled in the back of the truck, a total teardown might be in order. A leakage test might tell you something, but pulling the drain plug might tell you more.
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The boss's son was going to put a Celica engine in the old yota, but decided against it after I showed him some things wrong with the block and internals, that's why the engine is out of the tuck. The son then decided to work on the original 22r on the bench, but had too much going on to try and figure out what cause the issue(Greenhorn) ...so I started working with him, pointing out some ways to check stuff, but at his age 22 and a Built Mustang Gt of his own well u get the picture...
The compression leak down test can tell me quite a few things, but not all I need to know...
thanks for the input I appreciate it!
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#8
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Wait, so the engine IS or IS NOT still in the truck? Pulled externals, like intake manifold? Valve cover? Oil pan?
spark plugs?
Does it turn over by hand?
Good luck to you, I hope it doesn't turn ugly.
spark plugs?
Does it turn over by hand?
Good luck to you, I hope it doesn't turn ugly.
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Thanks for the good luck! I appreciate it...and it I determine that the engine internals are shot because of overheating, or just worn out.The boss will buy a rebuilt engine with a warranty and I'll install it
☺
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Ok, change of plans...
I now have the Toyota truck and want to put another engine it( not going back with the 22R).
I want to know what engines will work with the least amount of fabrication?
I'm looking into building this little truck into a sleeper, but on a budget.
I still have the original engine and parts, also the original drivetrain hasn't been messed with.
soooo let's here some opinions?
I'm looking forward to reading what y'all got to say 'bout this build
thanks!!
I now have the Toyota truck and want to put another engine it( not going back with the 22R).
I want to know what engines will work with the least amount of fabrication?
I'm looking into building this little truck into a sleeper, but on a budget.
I still have the original engine and parts, also the original drivetrain hasn't been messed with.
soooo let's here some opinions?
I'm looking forward to reading what y'all got to say 'bout this build
thanks!!
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started another thread, because the truck has changed hands, from his to mine
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...90-22r-291131/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...90-22r-291131/
#12
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drop a 350 in it....that's popular and easy... just have to clearance the radiator...... but why not rear into the 22r? at 200k, it should get bearings, so check the crank out. unbolt the head in proper sequence and probably do the timing set. the carberuated version isn't that bad of a motor, so it might still be an option. i had one with nearly half a million miles and still ran good. if anything, refreshing it could be worth the money to get into the new powerplant you cant to run. you are apparently familiar with a mercruiser 350, so an older 3.8, or a 3.4 is quite similar to build up.... the 4.3 using the same 5.7 parts mostly, just keep the carb under 500cfm unless you have a nasty cam.
Last edited by AKHeathen; 09-28-2015 at 05:12 AM. Reason: 4.3, not 3.4.... chevy, not pontiac, lol...
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