scott90

and as for the gasket kit i will be ordering that on thursday when i get paid but i have read that you dont want to get the fel pro set because they suck and that there is a multi layer steel head gasket (i think thats what its called) that is suppose to be way superior. arp studs is probably a route im going to take,i dont want to have to do this again anytime in the near future lol

scott90

yes definitley going to do alot of cleaning im sure my OCD will kick in by then, and ive noticed something about this tear down..its really not that complicated i just think most people over think it(including myself) and build it up to be harder then it really is

2big4arunner

Don't charge that much.. * damn phone typo LOL

2big4arunner

If you get the DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # HGS950
The head gaskets on that are really really nice. The all metal gaskets need more prep work and due to not having boost are not really necessary. I got a supra as well running over 10lbs on a stock turbo gasket and setup and that barely warrants the metal gaskets don't want you to throw away money if you don't want to. At bare minimum, take those gaskets to your machine buddy and ask him what he thinks first.

after you pull the heads, set the motor to tdc on #1 and check to make sure you haven't spun the harmonic balancer. I have seen it happen before so its good to double check. Then when you put the heads back on you align the marks with the front cover, manually rotate the motor 2 full rotations. Check your marks and adjust if necessary. Very easy of you think about it. Don't over think what others couldn't do right. They never double checked before putting the rest back together.
Ps. Double check All bolts and don't over torque into the aluminum. Its a pain in the ass to fix stripped bolts.

scott90

I looked at that kit and is it just me or does it only have one intake gasket showing? Have you used it before?

2big4arunner

yup, it does show one but for some odd reason they only show one exhaust heat gasket (large metal guy) they probably didn't see there was two together. I can vouch that its a great kit. If your at all worried, you can call and ask them to double check the package before it leaves

scott90

Ok sweet I'll take your word for it and order it,heading out to pull the heads off and take them in

scott90

had a slight hicup, went to pull the cam pulleys off and realized they are quite hard to remove once the timing belt is alread off so i improvised and unbolted the black cover and decided to pull both cams at once and deal with the cam pulleys later on so i can get the heads off

2big4arunner

LOL... I did that once as well. Easy cover to fix or find. Just cut it in half in the middle of there engine if you have issues pulling them off the head guides. You willdefinitely need to remove the exhaust crossover though.

rworegon

Make up this tool for holding the crank and cam pulleys....especially helpful when re-torquing the crank bolt:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

scott90

I just used tin snips and cut it in half and unbolted the exhaust manifolds straight off the heads or do I still have to unbolt the crossover pipe?

2big4arunner

You need to undo the cross over pipe unless you undo the exhaust headers from the heads. otherwise it will be a serious handful talking them off.
Guide pins and fairly heavy heads prevent the heads going straight up too. Be careful not to scratch the heads

did you say you were going the arp head studs for putting it back together? Did you find them?

scott90

yea i just unbolted the exhaust manifolds straight off of the heads,and no i have not found them yet i just got off work and got access to a computer so now the search begins,i already orderded the head gasket kit from rock auto.

2big4arunner

Well there are a couple ways just incase the prices from your local shop are too high

http://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-He...-p/1024065.htm

I could buy the individual pieces cheaper from my local machine shop so I ordered that way
You will want to have the shop triple check the numbers but they are as follows

2big4arunner

LOL... OK ..... I got all the numbers somewhere....... 2 hours later I found them minus one
the bolt is 11mm x 1.25 and 3.75inches long
Washers are 200-8510
6 sided hex nuts 200-8605
Hope that helps

scott90

ok got the heads off finally lol and i have to admit something,i did use a form of the miracle head gasket fix in a can awhile back and after having my heads off i can see now that it did more damage then good here is some pictures of where the head gasket failed, cylinder number 2 is clean as a whistle and you can see in the picture where the head gasket failed,glad i decided to tear it apart instead of just slapping a intake gasket on it lol, i checked on my gaskets and they were shipped yesterday,im going to take my heads in tomorrow to get done up(do i need to take the lifters out for the shop?) and im going to order those head studs from the link that you showed me tomorrow!

2big4arunner

Yeah.... one of the things I hate to see is when i tear down a recent purchase and find someone has used a sealer to try and seal up a head gasket.
Its always good to check anyways... its the only way to be 100% sure that your not throwing the money away.

I would leave the lifters in the head for sure. cam and all when you travel and have them set the valves and pucks.

Glad to see your taking up the right way of doing this job. have you thought about eliminating the crossover pipe for the exhaust yet?

scott90

I have thought about it but have not exactly thought how to go about it, I'd have to take a better look at it but headers have crossed my mind a time or two lol

2big4arunner

Headers will cost you between 400 to 600 plus another 100 or so to tie them in.
If you just re-route the original header down instead of across. That will gain most of the power just from having a more free flowing system. its anywhere from 10-15% gains

scott90

I'll have to look into it,with those arp head studs my roommate told me toy have to get a special tool to torque down the studs so they are stretched out and won't move so you can get a accurate torque when you put the nuts on.