92Yoda

i just got a timing belt kit to fix my truck and i noticed that the timing belt doesnt have any white lines on them like the one that came off my truck to set the belt properly, is this a problem? or are the lines just used to line up the cam sprocket? or is there any other significance to it? the belt is the same size, i would assume the same amount of ribs so the only difference is the white lines

92 TOY

you are right. it makes no difference. just make sure you follow the directions COMPLETELY and CORRECTLY and you will get it....eventually.

92Yoda

ok thanks, also, my R cam sprocket is at about 10:00 and the left is at 12 so im trying to get it back to 12 but fighting the compression isnt too fun when trying to turn it, do i take the spark plugs out to get past this?

rworegon

Taking the plugs out will help. You'll still have to overcome valve spring tension.

92Yoda

ok so i took the spark plugs out and it hardly helped at all, could anybody tell me how to get this right so i can continue to put my truck back together please

rworegon

You are on the right track. Just need to slowly turn the cam clockwise....you also have to overcome valve spring tension so there will be some resistance. I normally use a 1/2" ratchet (no cheater bar) and have no problem.
Good luck.

rworegon

See page EG2-44 of the FSM:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/timingbe.pdf

FSMs:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

92Yoda

Does it only need to be turned clockwise once to fix the timing? Or more than once, it keeps shifting from
10:00 to 2:00 so i just keep going back and forth, i thought if i turned the sprocket around once it would mess the timing up so i didnt

rworegon

It does not matter how many times you go around because when those two marks line up you are at TDC. Being a non-interference engine you can go either direction...I prefer to go clockwise though.

Generally, I can get the cam (on the5vz-fe, at least) to about 11:50-11:55 before it wants to spring past....a slow steady hand is good. If I'm fighting it, I leave it at the point just before it spings past that have a second set of hands help bring it to TDC as I slip the belt on.

I then use a soft jawed clamp to keep the belt positioned on the cam where I want it will placing the belt on the other cam.

92Yoda

yea i had it at like 11:55 and thought that wasnt good enough so i tried more and it sprung past. when you say you use a ratchet, are you saying you have a socket on the cam gear bolt and then you turn it clockwise? i was using the old timing belt on the gear and pulling the belt either way lol, works to an extent but im sure the ratchet is a little more controlled

rworegon

Yes, I use the ratchet or an offset box end wrench on the cam bolt. You are right....much more control.

Sometimes, I just grab the cam pulley with gloves on....depends on my mood.

Or, if I don't have the cam bolt in I just slip on the cam and the cam alignment pin/dowel and use this to rotate the cam into position...the bolts slip into and apply leverage to the spokes of the cam:

The link below is probably the easiest crank holding tool to make up (see post #14). It works great holding both the crank and cam. I used a 4' piece of metal and hacked off 1' to make up the short leg.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-201583/


Lots of ways to rotate the cams.

rworegon

FYI: Remember, any reference to right and left is as if you were sitting in the driver seat.

bbrideau

good thing its non interference interference motors suck sometimes

92Yoda

that tool looks quite helpful, is there suppose to be another hole on that tool where the cam bolt is too? if so i think ive found my solution haha!

rworegon

No, the Y shape is sufficient. Just put a bolt it each short leg of the Y. Your socket for the crank bolt will fit between the opening of the short legs. There are other holding tools made out of lumber even....a search here will turn them up for you.

92Yoda

i just used the socket on the cam bolt, started laughing at myself after i realized how much easier it was that way instead of the way i tried it haha so now their both back at 12 and i can move onto my missing bolt for the idler pulley, then hopefuly put this pos back together haha (hate 3vze with a passion) thanks for the quick help!!

rworegon

Laughing is good. Welcome.

92Yoda

ok so i have the timingbelt all setup and the timing is perfect ready to be tightened, but before i tighten anything i just wanted to clarify, is there supposed to be any slack on the timingbelt after its tightened? i havent tightened it yet but when i fiddle with it, it feels as though it could be moved over one more rib but would take 2 people, so maybe there should be some slack? and another thing is after the crank pulley is tightened do i turn it 2 revolutions to check the timing on everything? or do i do that before it is tightened? also, should i mark white lines on the timing belt parallel with the ones on the cam pulleys before i turn the engine to make sure they end up in the same position? here is a pic of where i am WITHOUT tightening anything:

thanks for the help

PowerstrokeJoe

I did a timing belt recently so I'll chime in here. You have the spring tensioner and the way I did it was put he belt on and made sure everything was in time and then tightened the bolt on the tensioner idler down to whatever the service manual said. (I cant remember off the top of my head.) It should have some play back and forth. Its a belt if it is fiddle string tight it will break As for the white lines don't bother they won't line up. One thing I did for future reference is when I installed my belt it was a tooth off. I marked the timing marks on the belt with a silver sharpie marker and it made it a whole lot easier to line up. I would personally leave the crank pulley loose and turn it the two revolutions that way you can get the belt off. I think I answered everything. If not let me know.

92Yoda

so if they dont line up does that mean the timing isnt right? or no? if i were to loosen the tensioner pulley, is the spring the only tension the belt needs? and then it gets tightened in that position? i believe the torque is 27-28ft/lb, if you look at the pic look at the belt between the waterpump and crank you can notice a bit of slack, im gonna work on making the tool to tighten the crank pulley tomorrow, but before i did that i wanted to make sure of the timing. hoping to have this job done in the next few days..