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So, I have been trying to troubleshoot my tailgate window/wiper etc and why the switches didn't work. I have read all the guides which have been very helpful. It's slow going because I don't really understand how to read schematics and test continuity with a multi-meter (I am learning slowly though.)
I grounded the blue wire on the switch and boom. Everything worked. The window switch, wiper, washer fluid, everything. My question is, is this a bad idea? I would eventually like to get everything working as it does from the factory, and I don't want to bypass and hack the harness (with the exception of adding the constant hot rear switch in the cargo area).
I guess I just want to know 1. What does grounding that blue wire do? 2. Will I damage anything? 3. Am I bypassing anything critical? The console switch still needs to have the ignition on to work, but I am fine with that. On a side note, when grounded, the key switch also tries to work, but the lights dim and it sounds like it has maxed out going up or down, even when it is in the middle.
You guys are the best, and I am really enjoying the process of rebuilding one of these awesome rigs!
So, I have been trying to troubleshoot my tailgate window/wiper etc and why the switches didn't work. I have read all the guides which have been very helpful. It's slow going because I don't really understand how to read schematics and test continuity with a multi-meter (I am learning slowly though.)
I grounded the blue wire on the switch and boom. Everything worked. The window switch, wiper, washer fluid, everything. My question is, is this a bad idea? I would eventually like to get everything working as it does from the factory, and I don't want to bypass and hack the harness (with the exception of adding the constant hot rear switch in the cargo area).
I guess I just want to know 1. What does grounding that blue wire do? 2. Will I damage anything? 3. Am I bypassing anything critical?
Blue wire from tailgate key switch provides ground to the switch. Directly connecting it to ground will bypass the safety interlocks... See the path it takes to get from that point to body ground below.
IF you promise to remember to operate your switch only when conditions are safe, you'll be OK. However, if you forget and operate the window when there is an unsafe condition, you could cause damage or injury.
To do this cleanly:
1) Move that jumper from ground and make your way back at each point between interlocks. Where door stops operating you know the interlock you just passed is the culprit.
2) Trace your wires based on schematic below to make sure you have no broken wires.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-26-2017 at 11:54 PM.
Blue wire from tailgate key switch provides ground to the switch. Directly connecting it to ground will bypass the safety interlocks... See the path it takes to get from that point to body ground below.
IF you promise to remember to operate your switch only when conditions are safe, you'll be OK. However, if you forget and operate the window when there is an unsafe condition, you could cause damage or injury.
To do this cleanly:
1) Move that jumper from ground and make your way back at each point between interlocks. Where door stops operating you know the interlock you just passed is the culprit.
2) Trace your wires based on schematic below to make sure you have no broken wires.
Ok, I think I actually am starting to put it all together now. I didn't realize that all those interlocks basically just blocked the path to the ground, and if they all check out they pass the path to ground. That's why you touch the various wires along the side to ground. To figure out which one isn't passing ground? Does that ground path also control the wiper as well?
Side question. How is the rear window lock switch supposed to function? Is it supposed to click down and stay depressed? Or does it click and pop back up? Mine goes down and comes back up. It doesn't click or anything. Just thought it seemed odd that it doesn't stay down.
With it wired like that the window will operate any time the switch is moved .
The hatch can be open the wiper can be moving .
If it is only you around the 4Runner it is no big deal one of mine has been wired like that for years
One of those emergency repairs that was never finished
Thanks for the reply.
My previous 88 had a hard wired toggle switch in the dash bypassing the console switch. Worked every time, ignition on or off didn't matter. I lived with it for 7 years with no issue, so I am not worried about operating the switch accidentally. I am more just interested in restoring it to how it came from the factory. I bought my 88 in 2001. It was only 13 years old with like 145,000 miles. I should have just kept that one!!!
Ok, I think I actually am starting to put it all together now. I didn't realize that all those interlocks basically just blocked the path to the ground, and if they all check out they pass the path to ground. That's why you touch the various wires along the side to ground. To figure out which one isn't passing ground? Does that ground path also control the wiper as well?
Cool. That's the way to troubleshoot. Stand back, see how it works first, then look at things that might keep it from working.
Looking at schematic, I think only the rear window limit switch affects wiper operation.
... How is the rear window lock switch supposed to function? .
It should stay down in one position, but it should not affect tailgate key switch function - although I would like to modify mine so it does to prevent a short in the tailgate from opening it when I don't want it to (i.e., rain when left at the trailhead).
Sometime in the past 30 years, someone may have spilt coffee, beer or soda on that switch - LOL! It is in such a bad location and it takes up space that should be for a cupholder, so I relocated mine.
It's a simple matter of shorting its pins 2 & 4 (Blue-Red, Blue-green) to eliminate it as suspect. Be careful because there is a hot wire there for the illuminated switch.
03-26-2017, 09:16 PM
