The surge is back...back again!
#61
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I don't think the screwdriver would do the trick....I still say blow the line out with air pressure...mine did the exact same thing , high idle with the screw turned all the way in, surged when warmed up and at times it would idle normal the at the next red light the surge would be back .
highway
highway
The idle isn't changing...its just not coming up in the morning like it should. It won't start when cold unless my foot is on the gas.
My theory is the AAV valve is working backwards somehow. Somehow my idle gets higher as it warms up...lol.
Definitely thanks for the help!
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so no matter what you do (except for adjusting the AAV) you can't get the idle speed down to normal spec... so
either the throttle body itself is not adjusted properly
the PCV valve is stuck OPEN
or there is a vacuum leak somewhere allowing air around the throttle body.
does the truck have a/c? if so, have you checked the lines to the idle up valve, or tried adjusting the valve in to lower the idle?
either the throttle body itself is not adjusted properly
the PCV valve is stuck OPEN
or there is a vacuum leak somewhere allowing air around the throttle body.
does the truck have a/c? if so, have you checked the lines to the idle up valve, or tried adjusting the valve in to lower the idle?
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so no matter what you do (except for adjusting the AAV) you can't get the idle speed down to normal spec... so
either the throttle body itself is not adjusted properly
the PCV valve is stuck OPEN
or there is a vacuum leak somewhere allowing air around the throttle body.
does the truck have a/c? if so, have you checked the lines to the idle up valve, or tried adjusting the valve in to lower the idle?
either the throttle body itself is not adjusted properly
the PCV valve is stuck OPEN
or there is a vacuum leak somewhere allowing air around the throttle body.
does the truck have a/c? if so, have you checked the lines to the idle up valve, or tried adjusting the valve in to lower the idle?
And no a/c either. Truck doesn't even have power steering. lol.
have you tried blocking the tube that goes down to the PAIR valve? (through that toilet-bowl float looking thing)
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holy smokes.. would it of hurt to clean up your timing cover, head and intake.
hope you get it figured out. seems there has been a lot of people with idle problems this month
hope you get it figured out. seems there has been a lot of people with idle problems this month
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I do admit that the AAV wasn't all of my problems...but...it sure runs a hell of a lot better!
Didn't adjust the AAV at all. Slapped it on...and then adjusted the idle screw. Purrs at 750 rpm. Amazingly it idled at 1500-1600 rpm in the morning! like its supposed to. But, I STILL have to put my foot on the gas to start it.
So, I'm thinking my intake could be really dirty. Or, the cold start injector is somehow screwy...although it barely starts just idles for a little bit and dies.
So whattaya think?
Didn't adjust the AAV at all. Slapped it on...and then adjusted the idle screw. Purrs at 750 rpm. Amazingly it idled at 1500-1600 rpm in the morning! like its supposed to. But, I STILL have to put my foot on the gas to start it.
So, I'm thinking my intake could be really dirty. Or, the cold start injector is somehow screwy...although it barely starts just idles for a little bit and dies.
So whattaya think?
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starts, idles then dies...
hmmm....
got a vacuum gauge? prolly not....
seriously though... now it's starting to sound like a leak between the throttle and AFM or a problem with the afm.
you didn't mutz with that back when you were banzai'ing down the street way bak when did you?
hmmm....
got a vacuum gauge? prolly not....
seriously though... now it's starting to sound like a leak between the throttle and AFM or a problem with the afm.
you didn't mutz with that back when you were banzai'ing down the street way bak when did you?
#73
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Could be. I had a simaliar(sp?) starting issue with my '91 3.0 truck. Had to give it a lot of peddle to start on cold mornings, and if I quick tapped it after I got it started, it would stumble and die. I replaced my cold start injector. That fixed my problem. But like I said, that was on my 1st '91 3.0, tho.
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a4r-
I read the problem like this: that it's hard to start, but with some pedal it will start and once it starts it idles fine. I don't see the CS injector or time switch being a problem here since it will start once (what I would argue) the AFM turns the fuel pump on. Getting what I'm thinking? But I'm open to discussion.
I read the problem like this: that it's hard to start, but with some pedal it will start and once it starts it idles fine. I don't see the CS injector or time switch being a problem here since it will start once (what I would argue) the AFM turns the fuel pump on. Getting what I'm thinking? But I'm open to discussion.
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starts, idles then dies...
hmmm....
got a vacuum gauge? prolly not....
seriously though... now it's starting to sound like a leak between the throttle and AFM or a problem with the afm.
you didn't mutz with that back when you were banzai'ing down the street way bak when did you?
hmmm....
got a vacuum gauge? prolly not....
seriously though... now it's starting to sound like a leak between the throttle and AFM or a problem with the afm.
you didn't mutz with that back when you were banzai'ing down the street way bak when did you?
Never messed with the AFM before...but it does kinda sound like its the problem. Also, I used to do some mudding and have got my truck pretty deep into water...so it might be dirty.
I'll test it. But yeah it starts and idles for a sec then the idle goes south and dies. So then I'll start it and give it gas and it will idle fine...but low.
Could be. I had a simaliar(sp?) starting issue with my '91 3.0 truck. Had to give it a lot of peddle to start on cold mornings, and if I quick tapped it after I got it started, it would stumble and die. I replaced my cold start injector. That fixed my problem. But like I said, that was on my 1st '91 3.0, tho.
a4r-
I read the problem like this: that it's hard to start, but with some pedal it will start and once it starts it idles fine. I don't see the CS injector or time switch being a problem here since it will start once (what I would argue) the AFM turns the fuel pump on. Getting what I'm thinking? But I'm open to discussion.
I read the problem like this: that it's hard to start, but with some pedal it will start and once it starts it idles fine. I don't see the CS injector or time switch being a problem here since it will start once (what I would argue) the AFM turns the fuel pump on. Getting what I'm thinking? But I'm open to discussion.
Last edited by 91Toyota; 10-19-2008 at 07:43 PM.
#76
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I see where your going Abe, and I do agree. But the reason I even said anything 'bout the CSI, was when I had the 3.0 replaced at Hamer Toyota in 2000 (new engine to the tune of $8k!) I did have no start/interment start condition. When I get it to start in the morning, (4:30-5am) it would stumble, run rough til it warmed up. If I pressed the gas, it would stumble more, almost die. Sometimes it would. But after the engine warmed up, no problems at all. Went thru all the obvious, and not so obvious.Nothing. When I pulled the CSI, the techs at Hamer had used my old injector, and placed both the lil brass spacers on the inside of the banjo bolt. Not 1 on the inside and the outside of the bolt, like it was suppose to be. When I replaced the injector (didn't test it) and placed the spacers correctly on the bolt, solved my problem.
It could have been just the incorrect placement of the spacers, or the injector itself. I'm thinkin of the both, in my case. Thats why I brought it up....I don't know if 91toy had messed with the CSI at all or not
It could have been just the incorrect placement of the spacers, or the injector itself. I'm thinkin of the both, in my case. Thats why I brought it up....I don't know if 91toy had messed with the CSI at all or not
Last edited by a4runnerfreak; 10-19-2008 at 08:20 PM.
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what he meant is there are two copper 'washers' and one goes on each side of the banjo fitting (a.k.a. fuel line) to the cold start injector, and the dealer placed BOTH washers on the same side of the injector.