abecedarian

IF the 51 is caused by the TPS, as it likely is, it is because the ECU is not getting the IDL signal (meaning the TPS is not fully closing or the contacts within are bad) when it thinks you should: i.e. when you let off the throttle and the engine rpm's drop low enough to be at idle but the TPS is not saying the throttle's closed. What I suggested above should get the TPS into that operational range, unless the TPS IDL contacts are bad.

abecedarian

edit to add (sorry, didn't want to hijack my own post)...

I figured what I wrote out once when I replaced the TPS on my 88 and couldn't hold the meter probes on the TPS well enough without removing the throttle body. Since I was not in a position to purchase what I'd need to make a new TB gasket, I figured why not let the ECU tell me (by way of the engine idle) that the TPS was registering throttle closed.

ohyeahcrx

Onother issue that has seemed to come up.
Chocolate milk oil.....as far as I know that means one of two things. Either a blown head gasket (which it isnt because my compression is fine.) or the timing chain has worn a hole in the cover, But seeing as I just replaced that whole thing thats not it either.
So my question is, is there something else that could be causing chocolate milk oil? Or could it be some leftover chocolate milk that was in the oil pan from before I replaced the timing cover? So in a way do I need to flush the oil system with oil to get rid of all the chocolate milk?

Any ideas?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Contaminated oil is not good. Coolant (if that is what your using) can cause other problems down the road.

abecedarian

Coolant / water in the oil will deteriorate the main and rod bearings in quick order. It needs flushed as quickly as possible.

ohyeahcrx

How do I flush it? just keep running oil through it?

ohyeahcrx

Any ideas?

ohyeahcrx

So I changed the timing cover, chain, and all that thinking that that was the reason I had water in my oil. Finnished that and nope still have water in my oil. What else can it be? And its not the headgasket cause the compression is fine. What else causes water in the oil. Lay it on me. Every possible thing.
Thanks..

934rnr

The head gasket maybe still leaking or possibly a cracked head just because you have good compression doesn't mean it's not leaking somewhere.
The only other way to check it is to a pressure check of the cooling system. That will only determine you have a leak. You have to find it from there.

Also water can still be hanging out at the bottom of your oil pan when you drain it you still don't get everything out of it there is still at least 1/8 qt of fluid at the bottom of the pan.
Is it water or is it radiator fluid?
After you changed the oil is the oil/water ratio(chocolate milk) any better or is it the same?

ohyeahcrx

And how would I do a compression check on my cooling system?

Yeah thats what i was thinking. But its def water cause it has made a nice milkshake in my engine :/

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Compression test your rad.

934rnr

It's a cooling system pressure tester nothing fancy.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Yep what he said, still try it rule out if HG fixed leak and simply not getting all the fluid out of crank case.

Could be something else besides HG

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

does it have an oil cooler? could be a faulty oil cooler .... if you have one... not sure. And just because your compresion is fine doesn't mean your head gasket is okay. There are several ways a headgasket leaks. Oil to cylinders, water to cylinders, water to oil. Good luck in figuring this out.

ohyeahcrx

So I can just get a cooling system pressure tester at any auto parts store? ha cause ive never heard of it

934rnr

One made by Slant


http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sta12270.html

Or a Craftsman just run down to sears.



http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...id=00946342000

rogerman

Sorry for thread reviving but did you ever solve the problems?