frozenSurf

Funny enough, rear sag is not an issue unless I'm really loaded down. OK then, If I'm leaving the suspension at stock height, what shocks does a guy want to put in?

This got much more complicated than I thought.....

-jeff

chimmike

Bilstein 5125's or 5150s, IMO. Both excellent shocks. 5125s more basic, 5150s have an external reservoir (which might be more suitable for uneven washboard)

MudHippy

I had stock rear leaf springs and 2" lift blocks on my truck when I bought it. Rancho 5000 for shocks. I then installed a 2" add-a-leaf which stiffened the spring rate significantly. And my NECK as well. Not only was the comfort of the ride GONE, but the ability to "soak-up" the bumps in the road was also ABSENT.

NOT GOOD! Now it feels like the rear is "froggy", wants to jump around instead of stick to the ground. Causing more lack of control than the stock springs, by far. THE OPPOSITE of what some are trying to teach here. Stiff suspension is ONLY good for the street.

PreRunner suspension is soft in the rear, slightly stiffer in front to compensate for the weight of the engine and reduce bottoming out. The correct recipe for success.

deathrunner

For the record, you need to be stiff for speed.

Big Bumps + Speed = Big Impact

It takes increased spring rate or shock valving to control the impact.

Mine is setup soft and there is a limit to my "prerunning".

For a cheap setup, I would run a downey hoop with dual bilsteins or gas charged pro comp shocks. Resevoirs are nice if you do this for long distances/periods of time. The extra shock fluid keeps the shock from "fading". (In otherwords, to keeps the gas and oil from mixing). Also having the fluid away from the shaft and main body keeps it cooler.

MudHippy

Maybe that says something for Rancho shocks then? I'm still gonna ditch the stiff rear springs ASAP. Dangerous.

Once again, what do I know? I only do this kind of driving every other day.

Maybe your limits are defined by your driving ability or better yet the over all ability(or lack there of)of a short wheelbase vehicle in general for this type of driving, no offense, just a theoretical.

slosurfer

No one has said it yet, but for a stock setup, one of the things that helped out immediately on rough forest service roads, was removing the front antisway bar. I originally removed it to be able to get as much articulation as I could on trails, but I was hugely surprised at how it helped smooth out rough roads. It allows your IFS to really do it's job and work independently. Other than that, what everyone else has said.

deathrunner

I guess, but baja bugs are pretty capable and have very short wheelbase.

A longer wheelbase can help smooth out some of the whoops, but it hinders a vehichle's abilities in many other areas. No driving situation that I have experienced has been continuously one terrain all through. I like my improved breakover angle, cornering ability in trails, and more compact size. But, I don't do it every other day.

Driving my vehichle to and from the trail is definitely my biggest limiting factor. Changes the way you drive, and that's when you really gotta put on your A game. That's your ride home.

drew303

Whats wrong with procomp shocks?

I've been very pleased with my setup on forest roads and I have a pickup so the rear is much lighter then you runner guys.

I have Procomp ES9000's all around with bj's up front and now with the stock torsions back on this truck is handles the gravel much better.


I'm very very pleased with the ride and handling. Though I'm much more interested in crawling, mud and technical... It is fun to get up to 50mph on some of the long gravel roads through the prairies here near where I live.

You can't really do anything about the washboard roads in any toyota. It will ring the teeth and brains out of anyone in any vehicle just about. The only thing that I've noticed is the LARGER rigs (more weight) with the LARGER tires see less of the vibration.

anyone with enough experience driving loose gravel washboard roads will know what speed reduces the least vibration and best control and traction. Speed is your friend over those tractor ridden gravel roads.

frozenSurf

Nobody has mentioned an adjustable system like the Rancho Rancho RS9000 RCX ?? Is this a viable option, of just a gimmick? The other option I was looking at is the ProComp MX6 or the Blistein 5150.

Any comments?

Jeff

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Ball joint spacer info:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml

Keeping stock torsion bars will give the softest ride, unless your bars are sagging and already maxed out on adjustment. I found that my old KYB GasAjust shocks gave a very decent ride on gravel/washboard. I also like my current Rancho 9000s w/ in-cab controller. Lets me dial in the ride as I drive.

Biggest win is to air down. I'll run 15-20 psi on gravel for a smoother ride. 20psi if I need to do stretches of pavement and down to 15 if not. I once drove from eastern CA across NV and UT mostly on gravel and stayed aired down in the 18-20 psi range for that entire trip.

ewong

IMHO adjustables for off road are a gimick.

Adjustables for on road race cars are OK if they are say Konis or Bilstiens PSS-9 ... you get what you pay for...