ovrrdrive

Absolutely. There are those on here that swear you don't need to do it but they're wrong. To do the job correctly you have to pull the head or there's a 80% chance you'll damage the front of the headgasket and have oil leaks. If your guides are broken you need to pull the pan and clean it out too, otherwise you can get by with just dropping the pan a few inches to get the TC on right.

I got quotes from $900-1800 for the job.

The first time I did it it took me about 2 weeks working on weekends and after work. I found out I had a bad timing cover and had to go back in. Second time was basically a week working on the weekend and after work and found out I had bent valves. Third time I did it in a weekend.

It's a big job. Don't underestimate it. If I were to do it again and had the help of a buddy I could do it no sweat in a weekend.


Engnbldr single row all the way and get the steel drivers side rail too. That's the one that breaks up and causes all the problems in the first place. And don't overtighten the bolts on the tensioner either. It's a common mistake and will cause the case to distort and the tensioner to not work.

Yodaforce

$500 to change the timing chain and guides, wouldn't touch the gasket unless there is a problem.

surf4runner

i would wait.
i had 235K on a 22RE before the HG went, didnt replace the TC, looked like new and was w/in tolerance.
did replace all the seals and pumps.

dunno of any recommended intervals for any timing chain(NOT belts!) as long as its w/in spec.


engbldr parts =

SC2WD

What are the specs for timing chain? I have looked around but not found anything. I had my valve cover off to adjust the valves and checked the guides (they're fine). The chain didn't seem to have too much slack but, I didn't really know how much is too much.
I do experience a rattle when it starts and it idles fast .
After a second or two, everything goes back to normal.
1994 22re @ 84,000 miles.
Thanks!

Georgiadave

The chain is measured (out of the engine) between a set number of links. If too long, it is out of spec. Not much help in diagnosing the chain while in the engine. I would look at the guides for wear, and the side of the timing chain cover.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

your tensioner is taking a little while to build up pressure on the chain, that might be the cause of the rattle.

SC2WD

I assume the tensioner is taking time to build pressure on the chain--does that mean that it is worn out and needs to be replaced? There is such a wealth of conflicting information about how often to change a timing chain, and it is such a big ($$) job--what is the answer??

Georgiadave

And the answer is - Take the valve cover off and LOOK at the guides. If they are good, leave the chain alone. If they are broken, replace the chain.

84sr5yoty

You probably just have an oil filter with a bad anti drain-back valve. Try using a Mobil 1, Wix, or Napa gold (made by Wix) oil filter and it should eliminate your start-up rattle. I've had the best luck with Mobil 1 filters in regards to timing chain rattle.

SC2WD

i use the dealer filters. They appear to have an anti-drain-back valve. Is it a bad one?