S2S Tuning 3VZ-E Cam Disscussion
#81
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
274! wow very nice man!!!
thats = to about 3 vortec engines right there.
THe price currently is 440cdn or 375usd.
That is for regrind @ regular price. Billets normally go for about 250 more then that (roughly $600) but i need a buy in of at least 15-20 people as i cannot afford the billets to sit around. (banks dont take beer as payment )
Group buy price will see about 400cdn/345usd with 3+ people.
thats = to about 3 vortec engines right there.
THe price currently is 440cdn or 375usd.
That is for regrind @ regular price. Billets normally go for about 250 more then that (roughly $600) but i need a buy in of at least 15-20 people as i cannot afford the billets to sit around. (banks dont take beer as payment )
Group buy price will see about 400cdn/345usd with 3+ people.
#83
Registered User
Indeed that IS a hell of a deal!
...maybe that knock could be rod bearings...it's only there at 5000+ rpm and occasionally at cruise and it's octane dependant. 87 and it sounds like marbles in a paint can on the paint mixer and 93 octane and zero ping save what I said above.
So this is the stage one cam, is there going to be a stage 2?
...maybe that knock could be rod bearings...it's only there at 5000+ rpm and occasionally at cruise and it's octane dependant. 87 and it sounds like marbles in a paint can on the paint mixer and 93 octane and zero ping save what I said above.
So this is the stage one cam, is there going to be a stage 2?
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-05-2006 at 06:07 AM.
#84
Registered User
I may be interested.. because i will be changing the timing belt and valve cover gaskets.. and some more power would be nice at the same time... but do i have to send my cams in to get them reground or do you send them to me and i send you my old ones?
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bumpin Yota,
A stage 2 cam would yeild...great highway results but idle would be affected (have to up the idle to 1000-1200) This is meant for racing only or for peopel who can tolerate it. I may get a set made and get dynod but Geoff (cam grinder) said its not worth it as the S1 cams are awsome.
I will Also be looking into a supercharger camset as well....for uhh.....future...devlopment-
Greg,
I have a core system in place but its going to cost a hefty amount for cores (300cdn). Of course that will be refunded when i get the cores back and in good condition.
You will all also get a shim that goes under the factory shim that pritty much puts your cams back into the same "clearence" range as they were when sent to me.
Of course this is for people who send me their cams, if we do a core exchange then you should always make sure you check cleanrences after. Its time consuming but in the end its worth it. Billets do cost a lot more
A stage 2 cam would yeild...great highway results but idle would be affected (have to up the idle to 1000-1200) This is meant for racing only or for peopel who can tolerate it. I may get a set made and get dynod but Geoff (cam grinder) said its not worth it as the S1 cams are awsome.
I will Also be looking into a supercharger camset as well....for uhh.....future...devlopment-
Greg,
I have a core system in place but its going to cost a hefty amount for cores (300cdn). Of course that will be refunded when i get the cores back and in good condition.
You will all also get a shim that goes under the factory shim that pritty much puts your cams back into the same "clearence" range as they were when sent to me.
Of course this is for people who send me their cams, if we do a core exchange then you should always make sure you check cleanrences after. Its time consuming but in the end its worth it. Billets do cost a lot more
#86
Registered User
had any takers yet? Im in the slow process of doing a little bit of dyno math at various RPM levels given the other dyno chart of a 3vze that was floating around here....once that's done it should really raise some eyebrows...hehe
#87
Registered User
sigh.... oh well... had we wrapped this up like even a month ago i would have bough some, but as it is, the motor is complete and waiting to go back in (its bolted to the trans and everything) this weekend.
#89
Registered User
This kind of died which sucks butt!
Im going to open up a credit card with a nice low apr and get my top end rebuild done asap with the untimely demise of my HG on cylinder #6....
I have 2 questions:
With oversized valves going in my heads, both intake and exhust, along with a mild port and polish, do you see any issues? (also going to be getting NWOR headers too)
Another question, should I do your cams and the new heads all at once or let the rebuilt heads break in before putting in your cams?
Im going to open up a credit card with a nice low apr and get my top end rebuild done asap with the untimely demise of my HG on cylinder #6....
I have 2 questions:
With oversized valves going in my heads, both intake and exhust, along with a mild port and polish, do you see any issues? (also going to be getting NWOR headers too)
Another question, should I do your cams and the new heads all at once or let the rebuilt heads break in before putting in your cams?
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 06-09-2006 at 03:01 PM.
#90
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its not dead...the cams are being made and here and i have recently sold them to come local customers all are running smooth If there was enough interest i would start a group buy as a min order of 3 can bring the price down.
DO the head and cams all at once there really is no break in period as the cams just let that air in nothing special
There is no issue with the cams and your other work, infact the gains should be even higher as you are allowing the head to flow as much as the cams will allow now so thats great!
DO the head and cams all at once there really is no break in period as the cams just let that air in nothing special
There is no issue with the cams and your other work, infact the gains should be even higher as you are allowing the head to flow as much as the cams will allow now so thats great!
#92
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have a quick question about the installation of these cams. how hard is it to swap cams on a 3.0? i have changed lifters and installed cams on a VW 2.0 butr i have never had a reason to tear the 3.0 down.
#93
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The problem with going any more aggressive in these cams is that you will have conflicts with the computer at idle. It will run really rough at idle and low rpm but once you hit the sweet spot it will pull.
For now it will stay with this set that sees improvements across the board including your emissions.
As far as install, the VW's are a CAKE walk compaired to this. Ssame concept in doing so tho but more time involved in these.
For now it will stay with this set that sees improvements across the board including your emissions.
As far as install, the VW's are a CAKE walk compaired to this. Ssame concept in doing so tho but more time involved in these.
#94
Registered User
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
With oversized valves going in my heads, both intake and exhust, along with a mild port and polish, do you see any issues? (also going to be getting NWOR headers too)
Another question, should I do your cams and the new heads all at once or let the rebuilt heads break in before putting in your cams?
Another question, should I do your cams and the new heads all at once or let the rebuilt heads break in before putting in your cams?