runethechamp

With the thread on the first page, how do people here break in their engines after a rebuild? I know I've seen it here somewhere, but can't find the appropriate threads right now.

TNRabbit

Here was mine after a complete rebuild:

1. 0-100 miles: first oil was standard 10w-30 with easy driving, no engine work over 3000 rpm and no full throttle
2. 101-1000 miles: changed oil to standard 10w-40, still driving easy with no engine work over 4000 rpm and no full throttle
3. 1001-3000 miles: changed oil again with standard 10w-40, gradually increased pressure on engine, occasional full throttle, periodic forays up to 5000 rpm at the end of this period
4. 3001-8000 miles: changed to Mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50, began to drive it like a regular truck (not babying it, not abusing it) with a few hard runs to see if it would stay together! I took a 2,000 mile trip with it during this period. with no problems and average speed of about 75 miles per hour.

MonsterMaxx

My breakin procedure is pretty close to Rabbit's, except I delay the switch to syn for at least 10,000-15,000 miles. Got to give the rings a chance to seat first.

Also, these engines are DESIGNED for low viscosity oils (5w-30). Running 20w-50 and other 'thick' oils will stretch the oil pump housing and result in lower oil pressure. Also 'thicker' oils will cost you MPG.


The death of my last 3.turd was due to some inferior parts too. Hopefully you got rid of them before you finished the build.
Burnt & cracked piston

runethechamp

Almost all new parts I am putting in here are original Toyota parts. More expensive than the kit from engnbldr, but you get what you pay for. I figured it was worth it all things considered. It's not like I am fixing this engine to just run it for another year or two.

BTW, the engine overhaul gasket kit from Toyota is pretty sweet. You get more or less everything you need in that one, including headgaskets and the gaskets/washers for the fuel lines. I think the only extra pieces I've had to pick up are the o-ring and gasket/seal for the oil cooler.

89pickupsr5

hey rune, do the coolant valleys on the head gasket match perfectly with the block? and has anyone ever considered a radiator style engine oil cooler?

I wish you the best of luck

Thanks, Drew

runethechamp

No they don't. The holes were smaller in some places in the head gasket compared to the block.

runethechamp

Just adding a couple of pictures from before the intake went on

idanity

good write up, and pix too.

thanks.
as i will most likely be rebuilding mine too. (but outside and in a dirt lot).

runethechamp

Ha, this engine was outside on our deck all summer when I was disassembling it. The assembly has been taking part in the, ahem, kitchen. I've kept dirty stuff out of there so it's worked ok, but both I (and my wife) are ready to get it out, something that might very well happen this weekend.

runethechamp

Question for the injector experts here. Why does the FSM tell me specifically NOT to use engine oil on the o-rings when I install the injectors? I think it says to use gasoline or spindle oil, but NOT normal engine oil. Why is that?

runethechamp

Just to add a couple of pictures I had with a headgasket on the block and on the head.

runethechamp

Aaargh. The egine is in the egine bay, with the input shaft aligned (I'm pretty sure about this from the relative position of the egine to the transmission), but I can't get them together. I have used the elveler in all kinds of ways, but with no luck. Any more advice from anyone before I contemplate dropping the transmission to get this done?

runethechamp

Update. After trying all kinds of ways to make this work, including dropping the transmission, I was giving up for the day. I just wanted to have the engine in the engine bay and the transmission at least not hanging down on the ground. Lowered the engine in, on the mounts, then tried to lift up the transmission at the crossmember so I could try to get at least on bolt in there. I got one bolt in and pryed and swore some and could suddenly get them all in. When I then looked up at the transmission where it bolts on to the engine, it was closer than it had ever been before. I could actually get a bolt in and start tightening it, and by some kind of freaking miracle, it all lined up and the transmission is bolted on.

Blurr

awesome dude. keep up the good work! (more pics too, if you have them!)

nate V

congrats dude on getting it to the final stages
what kind of clutch did you instal? oem or aftermarket?

runethechamp

OEM. Got the flywheel resurfaced for $30 at the machine shop that did my other work and was lucky and got a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throwout bearing from someone on craigslist for $100. Hope it works

runethechamp

And it starts! On the first try after about one half of a second!

More later.

TNRabbit

Congrats! How's it running?

Georgiadave

Rune - To seat the rings, you need to lug the engine some, which creates some extra pressure on the pistons and rings. Accelerate from 20 to 50 in 3rd gear about a dozen times to seat the rings. I second the use of thinner oil. 5-30 or 0w-30 is the way to go for optimum flow, lubrication and cooling.

runethechamp

Well, what can I say.... It runs more or less perfect. No misses, no stuttering, no crazy sounds, no CEL. Timing was just a tad off when I checked it after it warmed up. Makes me kind of scared something big will show up later. But so far it's like it was never taken apart (with the exception of the rod knock of course).