Problem with bj spacers after install
07-13-2010, 02:56 PM
#21
Contributing Member
You'd rather replace a U-joint on the trail?
Ever replaced a toyota ujoint before? You can do it without a press, but its hard. Changing a driveshaft, sure, but when you have custom shafts, that gets expensive.
I can change a CV in 15 minutes without jacking up the truck or removing a tire.
As for clearance, yes, it does, especially if you run a belly pan.
More importantly, I wasn't referring to the driveshaft binding. Its the angle. You get wicked vibes at 50-60 miles per hour when that joint is out of alignment.
Anyway, I agree that the OP needs to do something to keep his CV's from binding. I run spacers, with stock bumpstops and stock axles. no binding at full droop.
All that being said, I don't really see ball joint spacers as that great of a modification, having had them for quite some time.
Off road, they do provide a little extra flex, but not anything to write home about. No extra clearance for larger tires like a bracket lift, so trimming/cutting is inevitable unless you run spacers on your compression stops (eliminating some of that extra travel that was just installed).
The added stress to the steering components is a pain, and is what eventually got me to relax my torsion bars so my lower a-arms sat at the stock height. I did get a better ride out of it, but I'm not sure it was worth the trouble.
Ever replaced a toyota ujoint before? You can do it without a press, but its hard. Changing a driveshaft, sure, but when you have custom shafts, that gets expensive.
I can change a CV in 15 minutes without jacking up the truck or removing a tire.
As for clearance, yes, it does, especially if you run a belly pan.
More importantly, I wasn't referring to the driveshaft binding. Its the angle. You get wicked vibes at 50-60 miles per hour when that joint is out of alignment.
Anyway, I agree that the OP needs to do something to keep his CV's from binding. I run spacers, with stock bumpstops and stock axles. no binding at full droop.
All that being said, I don't really see ball joint spacers as that great of a modification, having had them for quite some time.
Off road, they do provide a little extra flex, but not anything to write home about. No extra clearance for larger tires like a bracket lift, so trimming/cutting is inevitable unless you run spacers on your compression stops (eliminating some of that extra travel that was just installed).
The added stress to the steering components is a pain, and is what eventually got me to relax my torsion bars so my lower a-arms sat at the stock height. I did get a better ride out of it, but I'm not sure it was worth the trouble.
Last edited by AxleIke; 07-13-2010 at 02:58 PM.
07-13-2010, 04:02 PM
#23
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All that being said, I don't really see ball joint spacers as that great of a modification, having had them for quite some time.
No extra clearance for larger tires like a bracket lift, so trimming/cutting is inevitable unless you run spacers on your compression stops (eliminating some of that extra travel that was just installed).
The added stress to the steering components is a pain, and is what eventually got me to relax my torsion bars so my lower a-arms sat at the stock height. I did get a better ride out of it, but I'm not sure it was worth the trouble.
No extra clearance for larger tires like a bracket lift, so trimming/cutting is inevitable unless you run spacers on your compression stops (eliminating some of that extra travel that was just installed).
The added stress to the steering components is a pain, and is what eventually got me to relax my torsion bars so my lower a-arms sat at the stock height. I did get a better ride out of it, but I'm not sure it was worth the trouble.
The real stress is on the idler arm. Idler arm brace or brass bushings (or both) - easy fix. Sure, if you run cranked out torsion bars with or without BJ spacers you are going to run into problems.
I'm not trying to argue with you. It's all opinion, but I'm really satisfied with this lift. I'm not a big fan of bracket lifts, but once again - opinion.
Last edited by conrad; 07-13-2010 at 04:05 PM.
07-13-2010, 04:08 PM
#24
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Did not mean to start a debate.
Not sure what is more fun, installing a lift or debating about it. Anyway, I'm going to replace the cv shaft this week to be safe. Not sure how long the boot has been bad and maybe damaged the shaft. After adjusting the torsion bar and getting an alignment, I'm not hearing any noises. Happy with the install.
Regarding the diff drop not sure if I need it, but I know there is no disadvantage to installing it. Maybe we can agree on that??
Regarding the diff drop not sure if I need it, but I know there is no disadvantage to installing it. Maybe we can agree on that??
07-13-2010, 04:16 PM
#25
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AxleIke, I agree with your comment about the press and custom driveshaft, this is why I had also mentioned changing the entire driveshaft. but if someone is running a custom shaft then they aren't gonna be on factory IFS anyway I would think. LT maybe on a prerunner. but then they wouldn't have the need for the extra travel and diff drop. 
As far as this statement: "You get wicked vibes at 50-60 miles per hour when that joint is out of alignment." why the heck would you be in 4wd at 50-60MPH anyway? Prerunning? I don't think you will notice any vibes from the driveshaft when yur entire body is shaking from the terrain it's self.
As far as this statement: "You get wicked vibes at 50-60 miles per hour when that joint is out of alignment." why the heck would you be in 4wd at 50-60MPH anyway? Prerunning? I don't think you will notice any vibes from the driveshaft when yur entire body is shaking from the terrain it's self.
07-13-2010, 06:07 PM
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07-13-2010, 07:27 PM
#27
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Yes, I've replaced the U-joints on both front and rear drivelines on my 4Runner. I've also done the CV's. I'll take the U-joints any day over the CV's. I had no problems doing my U-joints without a press.
I did mine without a press too. However, getting them out, and keeping the needle bearings intact and together enough while re-installing the new one while on the trail would be a nightmare.
I find this incredibly hard to believe, but if you can you are more than welcome to come do my CV's. I'll even buy you a six pack.
Why do you find that so hard to believe? pull 6 bolts, pull the hub, disconnect the snap ring, and slide out. I should have clarified this is with air tools. I imagine it would take a few minutes longer with hand tools.
60 in 4wd... hmmm? Your front driveline shouldent be spinning in 2WD, so there wouldent be any issues there. If there is no binding threre won't be any alignment issues, and the diff drop wont change the balance of the front driveline at all.
Right. It doesn't spin in 2wd, except when my hubs are locked in. Which they are when I'm leaving town to head into the mountains. I realize this isn't an occurrence that everyone has, but some people do, and those people may eventually read this thread. When traveling in town here on the Front Range of CO, one is often able to drive on dry roads, and then, gaining elevation, the roads become wet and snowy, necessitating the need for 4wd. Its nice to have the hubs locked, so one can shift on the fly.
It allows for 33x12'50's, which is a common and practical setup. No way I could have fit 33's without the BJ spacers. Any flex would have caused a lot of rub. I'm sure this varies from truck to truck.
No. You can fit any tire stock that you can fit with BJ spacers, the difference is that BJ spacers allows you to drive that tire on the street without a lot of cutting and trimming.
However, BJ spacers in no way affect the uptravel of the lower control arm, which is the arm that is bump stopped on uptravel. Because nothing has changed, the wheel will still compress to the exact same location as it did stock. It will just droop 1.5" farther with the spacers.
I ran 33x12.50's as well for a while. They rubbed just as much when I was lifted as they did when I relaxed to stock height.
The real stress is on the idler arm. Idler arm brace or brass bushings (or both) - easy fix. Sure, if you run cranked out torsion bars with or without BJ spacers you are going to run into problems.
I'm not trying to argue with you. It's all opinion, but I'm really satisfied with this lift. I'm not a big fan of bracket lifts, but once again - opinion.
I'm not arguing really. I think we both agree that the OP needs the diff drop. I am just offering a different opinion on both the diff drops and the bj spacers. I tried the diff drop and immediately removed it. I've been running the spacers for a number of years now.
I did mine without a press too. However, getting them out, and keeping the needle bearings intact and together enough while re-installing the new one while on the trail would be a nightmare.
I find this incredibly hard to believe, but if you can you are more than welcome to come do my CV's. I'll even buy you a six pack.
Why do you find that so hard to believe? pull 6 bolts, pull the hub, disconnect the snap ring, and slide out. I should have clarified this is with air tools. I imagine it would take a few minutes longer with hand tools.
60 in 4wd... hmmm? Your front driveline shouldent be spinning in 2WD, so there wouldent be any issues there. If there is no binding threre won't be any alignment issues, and the diff drop wont change the balance of the front driveline at all.
Right. It doesn't spin in 2wd, except when my hubs are locked in. Which they are when I'm leaving town to head into the mountains. I realize this isn't an occurrence that everyone has, but some people do, and those people may eventually read this thread. When traveling in town here on the Front Range of CO, one is often able to drive on dry roads, and then, gaining elevation, the roads become wet and snowy, necessitating the need for 4wd. Its nice to have the hubs locked, so one can shift on the fly.
It allows for 33x12'50's, which is a common and practical setup. No way I could have fit 33's without the BJ spacers. Any flex would have caused a lot of rub. I'm sure this varies from truck to truck.
No. You can fit any tire stock that you can fit with BJ spacers, the difference is that BJ spacers allows you to drive that tire on the street without a lot of cutting and trimming.
However, BJ spacers in no way affect the uptravel of the lower control arm, which is the arm that is bump stopped on uptravel. Because nothing has changed, the wheel will still compress to the exact same location as it did stock. It will just droop 1.5" farther with the spacers.
I ran 33x12.50's as well for a while. They rubbed just as much when I was lifted as they did when I relaxed to stock height.
The real stress is on the idler arm. Idler arm brace or brass bushings (or both) - easy fix. Sure, if you run cranked out torsion bars with or without BJ spacers you are going to run into problems.
I'm not trying to argue with you. It's all opinion, but I'm really satisfied with this lift. I'm not a big fan of bracket lifts, but once again - opinion.
I'm not arguing really. I think we both agree that the OP needs the diff drop. I am just offering a different opinion on both the diff drops and the bj spacers. I tried the diff drop and immediately removed it. I've been running the spacers for a number of years now.
07-13-2010, 07:30 PM
#28
Contributing Member
AxleIke, I agree with your comment about the press and custom driveshaft, this is why I had also mentioned changing the entire driveshaft. but if someone is running a custom shaft then they aren't gonna be on factory IFS anyway I would think. LT maybe on a prerunner. but then they wouldn't have the need for the extra travel and diff drop.
As far as this statement: "You get wicked vibes at 50-60 miles per hour when that joint is out of alignment." why the heck would you be in 4wd at 50-60MPH anyway? Prerunning? I don't think you will notice any vibes from the driveshaft when yur entire body is shaking from the terrain it's self.
As far as this statement: "You get wicked vibes at 50-60 miles per hour when that joint is out of alignment." why the heck would you be in 4wd at 50-60MPH anyway? Prerunning? I don't think you will notice any vibes from the driveshaft when yur entire body is shaking from the terrain it's self.
I'm also running a full flat belly (drivetrain lifted up into the cab), dual cases, .120 wall driveshafts, ARB's both ends, and 35" tires.
Not many are as dumb as I am, but I do enjoy driving this turd, so I keep polishing it.
See the above reply for the 50-60 miles per hour scenario. Not as cool as prerunning, though I wish it was LOL, just a practical application in winter time around here.
Last edited by AxleIke; 07-13-2010 at 07:31 PM.
07-14-2010, 08:31 PM
#31
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If you haven't tossed your swaybar yet, you can buy a swaybar drop kit from 4Crawler with the diff drop - cheap and easy fix.
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