Pick up my first 4Runner late this afternoon
08-11-2009, 07:58 PM
#21
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OK... so the blue wire in the pic above poking out next to the headlight is my hood latch "helper" I wrapped it around the release cable and use(d) it to pull the release from the outside whilst I attempt to slam the hood shut. Sometimes it has worked other times.... yeah no. I even thought... the cable needs to be down tight... there is too much give and that is another reason it's not latching correctly.
My fellow Georgia humorist Jeff Foxworthy would say...
"I might be a redneck"
My fellow Georgia humorist Jeff Foxworthy would say...
"I might be a redneck"
08-11-2009, 08:03 PM
#22
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Make sure the latch is tight.If the mount is just a little loose when you slam the hood down it will move the latch.. also Is the cable streched out?
08-12-2009, 03:44 AM
#25
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as far as the battery hold-down....got mine from EBAY......make sure the battery is on it's little plastic tray too.
when we picked up our 88 4runner the battery was WAY too big and not anchored at all and there was evidence of it sliding into the fan as well (3vze)....the fan had melted plastic all over it and the battery was gouged out.
BTW....what year is that?????
i'm not so good on the doing-engines part, but our 4runner was trashed inside.......took everything out undercoated and enameled the floor pan front to back and re-did all the plastic........if you clean all the plastic and use a plastic primer you could do it up in any color you like.....we stuck with the gray to keep it original. take the roll bar out ,sand it,primer it,undercoat it and enamel it and it will look awesome. i could post some pics of our work, just don't want to hijack your thread.
when we picked up our 88 4runner the battery was WAY too big and not anchored at all and there was evidence of it sliding into the fan as well (3vze)....the fan had melted plastic all over it and the battery was gouged out.
BTW....what year is that?????
i'm not so good on the doing-engines part, but our 4runner was trashed inside.......took everything out undercoated and enameled the floor pan front to back and re-did all the plastic........if you clean all the plastic and use a plastic primer you could do it up in any color you like.....we stuck with the gray to keep it original. take the roll bar out ,sand it,primer it,undercoat it and enamel it and it will look awesome. i could post some pics of our work, just don't want to hijack your thread.
08-13-2009, 05:50 AM
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OK.. so a couple of updates....
while I don't mind being the "older guy in the beater" I hate being the older guy in the broken down beater at the local suburbs grocery store....nice... go up to take it out again. Run into the store for gas cards ( gets you a bigger discount at the pumpt.. and the "girl drives" both needed gas ... I'll pay but I'm not pumping their gas for them as well...anywho ). Come out and of course CLICK is all I get. I check everything. OMG. Then suddenly it fires right up like it the first time. GREAT! I then leave it running while I fill her up ( dumped two cans of fuel system cleaner into the tank the two days earlier when I picked it up ). So last night I removed and cleaned the GRND cable at the block and re-attached AND also removed and cleaned the small wire connection at the starter ( what is that thing?) Seems to have helped already. Was tempted to purchase new battery cables but they don't look bad and I hate to replace a part just because. That uses up $$ for upgrades! Shot a bunch of lube on the door hinges and on everything I could get to for the back window. It works better now for sure. Buff out the rear gate quickly and then noticed. Greeeeaat NO REAR DOOR HANDLE. OK uhhhh how do I get this thing open??? and the support arms on both sides are hanging and make beautiful music and you drive around. I've search some and can't find anything so any pointers would be appreciated. And since I am a newbie I will say I'VE READ ALOT my bookmarks are growing rapidly. Did find out that one of the empty electrical connectors on the top of the engine is a EGR Temp Sensor which seems to be used in Cali only. Good to know.....that takes care of one of like ten!
while I don't mind being the "older guy in the beater" I hate being the older guy in the broken down beater at the local suburbs grocery store....nice... go up to take it out again. Run into the store for gas cards ( gets you a bigger discount at the pumpt.. and the "girl drives" both needed gas ... I'll pay but I'm not pumping their gas for them as well...anywho ). Come out and of course CLICK is all I get. I check everything. OMG. Then suddenly it fires right up like it the first time. GREAT! I then leave it running while I fill her up ( dumped two cans of fuel system cleaner into the tank the two days earlier when I picked it up ). So last night I removed and cleaned the GRND cable at the block and re-attached AND also removed and cleaned the small wire connection at the starter ( what is that thing?) Seems to have helped already. Was tempted to purchase new battery cables but they don't look bad and I hate to replace a part just because. That uses up $$ for upgrades! Shot a bunch of lube on the door hinges and on everything I could get to for the back window. It works better now for sure. Buff out the rear gate quickly and then noticed. Greeeeaat NO REAR DOOR HANDLE. OK uhhhh how do I get this thing open??? and the support arms on both sides are hanging and make beautiful music and you drive around. I've search some and can't find anything so any pointers would be appreciated. And since I am a newbie I will say I'VE READ ALOT my bookmarks are growing rapidly. Did find out that one of the empty electrical connectors on the top of the engine is a EGR Temp Sensor which seems to be used in Cali only. Good to know.....that takes care of one of like ten!
08-13-2009, 06:14 AM
#28
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back door opens like this...............roll down the rear window with either the key at the back gate where it says TOYOTA or if you have a window switch inside, roll it down. then,when the window is down, reach inside the rear gate and pull up the lock button to unlock it and then there is a handle to open the gate.
if you are missing parts (door handle), take all the inside trim off the gate and there should be 2 cables (one from either side) that you just pull to release the gate.
if your rear window is working, you are a lucky guy, i had to replace our motor and i've seen alot of posts about the relay box with crappy relays needing work(located just behind the B-post on the driver's side (have to take the wall panel off to get to it).
if you are missing parts (door handle), take all the inside trim off the gate and there should be 2 cables (one from either side) that you just pull to release the gate.
if your rear window is working, you are a lucky guy, i had to replace our motor and i've seen alot of posts about the relay box with crappy relays needing work(located just behind the B-post on the driver's side (have to take the wall panel off to get to it).
08-13-2009, 07:06 AM
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OK... thanks for the tips...
tapping the starter didn't work or seem to this time but thanks WAB cause I had read some other threads about the start contacts and how they are easy to clean up.. I tapped I checked..cables... I tapped again... the GRND connection was D I R T Y so that is mainly why I went to the connections first... I had also read about a good GRND at the ECU but it looks OK and honestly the connections in the engine area were easier to get to ...
I'll have to get inside and take the gate panel off ( man does it have a super cushiony panel on it I was surprised ) to see about getting to the cables so the I can order a handle and such I don't have a handle at all.... but trying to keep my Good Karma going because my windows works fine using the key or the switch at the console...
Regarding the polish... you won't believe this but..... after detailing cars for several years ( when I was a younger gear head ) for oxidation and esp on RED cars I will only use NU FINISH. STOP Laughing.... If you have oxidation and really just want to see what the paint is like there is nothing better. Wait til you see what the engine compartment on this truck looks like after I get time. It's great. I didn't use a high speed buffer either. I have a VERY OLD VERY HEAVY commercial random orbital buffer just to make it fast. It doesn't do anything for scratches but that isn't what I'm after at first. I want to see the condition of the paint. The door frames on this thing look brand new now. Of course this paint is most likely enamel which can take years of abuse better than the newer clear coats.
tapping the starter didn't work or seem to this time but thanks WAB cause I had read some other threads about the start contacts and how they are easy to clean up.. I tapped I checked..cables... I tapped again... the GRND connection was D I R T Y so that is mainly why I went to the connections first... I had also read about a good GRND at the ECU but it looks OK and honestly the connections in the engine area were easier to get to ...
I'll have to get inside and take the gate panel off ( man does it have a super cushiony panel on it I was surprised ) to see about getting to the cables so the I can order a handle and such I don't have a handle at all.... but trying to keep my Good Karma going because my windows works fine using the key or the switch at the console...
Regarding the polish... you won't believe this but..... after detailing cars for several years ( when I was a younger gear head ) for oxidation and esp on RED cars I will only use NU FINISH. STOP Laughing.... If you have oxidation and really just want to see what the paint is like there is nothing better. Wait til you see what the engine compartment on this truck looks like after I get time. It's great. I didn't use a high speed buffer either. I have a VERY OLD VERY HEAVY commercial random orbital buffer just to make it fast. It doesn't do anything for scratches but that isn't what I'm after at first. I want to see the condition of the paint. The door frames on this thing look brand new now. Of course this paint is most likely enamel which can take years of abuse better than the newer clear coats.
Last edited by GA864RUN; 08-13-2009 at 07:10 AM.
08-13-2009, 07:15 AM
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AND I almost forgot!... to speak of my don't buy it if you don't need it statement earlier... the hood latch... well I knee jerked and bought a used latch assembly because mine was so... messed up looking... so last night messing with the truck I decided to take the hood prop out completely.... it was something else that had nick marks in it and I'm thinking..... it's hitting the stinking prop rod... TADA! Hood closes... I have to remind myself KISS ( Keep It Simple STUPID ).
08-13-2009, 07:25 AM
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Next time the starter won't crank, try jumping voltage to the small plug on the starter solenoid and see if it cranks. If it does, the starter is probably fine and you might only need a starter relay.
08-16-2009, 04:59 PM
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Minor Update.... and A QUESTION ( or two )
Replaced the bentup hood latch with the used replacement. Prop rod still can't be there but whatever.
Changed oil... went with Mobil Clean 5000 10W-30 which is when the fun began and the first question comes from. What exactly is the Toyota engine that take a Purolator Pure One filter PL14670 because that is definately NOT the filter this for a 1986 Toyota 4Runner with the 22RE engine. So now what engine do I have? And it looks like I'm missing a couple of motor mount bolts on the passenger side. Anybody have an idea of what size these little puppies should be? And lastly why in the world would a designer mount a sensor within the stink'n motor mout!?
Also made it look a little bit more "presentable" after removing the stripes from the passenger door and buffing out the door and rear quarter panel. And scrubbling the top with ALOT of simple green and a brush.
Lastly, since this is a major BUDGET unit I'm going to repaint the thing myself using the web wonderful high density foam roller, wet sand, buff out approach. The top I'm going to paint black.
Replaced the bentup hood latch with the used replacement. Prop rod still can't be there but whatever.
Changed oil... went with Mobil Clean 5000 10W-30 which is when the fun began and the first question comes from. What exactly is the Toyota engine that take a Purolator Pure One filter PL14670 because that is definately NOT the filter this for a 1986 Toyota 4Runner with the 22RE engine. So now what engine do I have? And it looks like I'm missing a couple of motor mount bolts on the passenger side. Anybody have an idea of what size these little puppies should be? And lastly why in the world would a designer mount a sensor within the stink'n motor mout!?
Also made it look a little bit more "presentable" after removing the stripes from the passenger door and buffing out the door and rear quarter panel. And scrubbling the top with ALOT of simple green and a brush.
Lastly, since this is a major BUDGET unit I'm going to repaint the thing myself using the web wonderful high density foam roller, wet sand, buff out approach. The top I'm going to paint black.
08-20-2009, 03:54 PM
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OK so I suck and updating stuff... have gotten a little done...
Removed the ugly door mirrors.... peeled off the strips from the doors... got the top cleaned and the whole trucked buffed out...
Oh Yeah and I actually washed the tires & rims and sprayed the tires... to attempt to please my buddy at work
who's only statement after seeing it was "Dude get the wheels and tires clean."
Removed the ugly door mirrors.... peeled off the strips from the doors... got the top cleaned and the whole trucked buffed out...
Oh Yeah and I actually washed the tires & rims and sprayed the tires... to attempt to please my buddy at work
who's only statement after seeing it was "Dude get the wheels and tires clean."
Last edited by GA864RUN; 08-20-2009 at 03:59 PM.
08-20-2009, 03:58 PM
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Got the Yota battery hold down mounted and lost the nice red strap.... also the windshield washer unit arrived and got it installed along with getting the grill removed and repainted.
08-20-2009, 04:05 PM
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OK.. so the deal with WHY did it take the oil filter that wasn't listed... along with.. IS that sensor SUPPOSE to be mount INSIDE the motor mount?? And lastly I guess the best way to figure out what size the motor mounts bolts that are missing are to take one of the others out and use it to size with. Is the engine mounted wrong? Is it some car motor? It does say 22RE right on the front yes. But I'm confused/just wanna know what I really have.
PICS...
Yes, looks like the timing/water pump cover has definately been off. And I have NO idea why they would have packed the white crap in the holes where the A/C compressor goes. It runs.. OK.. .nothing great. Has a "noticeable" tick. So I'm thinking adjust the valves which from what I've found is pretty straight forward and should be fairly easy. I figure if I could do my Cosworth Vega ( shims, digital mic, half a dozen special tools) I can do this 4 cyl.
PICS...
Yes, looks like the timing/water pump cover has definately been off. And I have NO idea why they would have packed the white crap in the holes where the A/C compressor goes. It runs.. OK.. .nothing great. Has a "noticeable" tick. So I'm thinking adjust the valves which from what I've found is pretty straight forward and should be fairly easy. I figure if I could do my Cosworth Vega ( shims, digital mic, half a dozen special tools) I can do this 4 cyl.
Last edited by GA864RUN; 08-20-2009 at 04:12 PM.
08-20-2009, 04:19 PM
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good find man even if you have to rebuild the engine and if you do any thing to it go sas, lift ,gears, lockers,bigger tires and you will be ready for some narley trails buddy.
