kiyobrown

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Jason - yes, that's the pic I was talking about - those hoses look great, and like they'll last a long time....anyone know where to get them?

And, as promised (now that I'm home), the video of my engine after getting the correct dizzy gearing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaQnPhLT60M


The think smoke coming off the headers I think is from the brake fluid and carb cleaner I'd used during the job to try and de-gunk things. Also, notice the Piece of Crap positive battery terminal that CRACKED when I put it back on after the job! This is less than 2 months old, from Shucks/Checkers/Kragen - absolute garbage....

Jason - Your softtop looks great! I had a Kayline years ago but the windows got scratched/foggy quickly, and a few snaps tore out so I ended up junking it. I need to get mine off for the summer too - it's been years since I did that and I miss it!


Hope to take it out tomorrow to break it back in

THANKS Jason, 92 TOY, Snobdds, and Chef for all your help on this thread - Yotatech is the best car forum I've ever been on by far - such great people willing to help out!

kiyobrown

Sounds good. These motors always sound like they are ticking louder on video then they do in person. Not sure why. But glad you had such an "easy" fix, chef is having a hell of a time with his.

BBP still runs his kayline. I believe he is putting it on tomorrow. It's funny, nobody notices an old first gen around here, but take the top off and it's a whole different story. Weirdos.

Again, congrats.

I liked how you gave the closeup of the battery cable clamp! I had one split on me as well when I did my battery intake swap. Last turn of the wrench and bam! Off to the store again.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I noticed you didnt have the hoses goin over to the pwr steeringn idle up valve.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOOOOOOOOT WOOOOOOOOOT! LOL.. Trust me, no matter how stuck I am, I'm still SO HAPPY for ANYONE who gets these Hypo Sewing machines PURRING! lol.....

Love the top, too!

Thanks for the mention, Kiyo, I really appreciate it. Wish some more people would chime in, but I guess i might have to move the thread or start a new one. At this point, I DON'T CARE IF THE BIG BOYS YELL AT ME! Lol.

SOOOOOOOOOOOO HAPPY FOR YOU, PHIL! Awesome, and sounds great. Oh, btw, my battery/ cable story? Had a 66 Mercury Comet GTA390 pushed to 429, MONSTER....lol. Anyway, was stalling, couldn't figure it out. Suddenly, one day, STALL OUT FOR GOOD, then smoke, then POP! Then I saw the hood buckle and almost bend during the pop! Opened it up and the battery had exploded! Looked closer, ....it was the wire I had that had completely overheated and melted from a short(check those wires is easy on a basic combustion! grrrrrr, lol) SOUNDED LIKE A MOSSY-8GAUGE GOING OFF UNDER MY HOOD! Thank God I wasn't standing over it, eh? lol.

kiyobrown

Speak of the devil! Your ears burning? Hehehe. I still have nothing intelligent to add to your thread chef, but I check up on it daily. Hope you get it soon.

And good thing you weren't standing over that thing when it blew. Not to say that a hood is sturdier than yo..... Ok, I'm saying it handled it better then you would have.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

OH TRUST ME, it wud've KILLED OR AT LEAST maimed me! I've seen a guy's entire left facial portion melted off....NOTHING NICE! lol. Yeah, I'm 6' and 230, not much chub, ....but nonetheless, ACID IS ACID! lol. Oh, yeah, flying plastic shrapnel aint nuttin nice, either!

Thanks for checking in, Kiyo...SPREAD THE WORD! .......

Sorry, unintentional highjack, Phil....You know I wudn't disrespect ya foo! lol.

92 TOY

congrats phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Yup - they were still tucked out of the way at that point...when I put them back is when I noticed one was cracked, so I taped it for now. Would really like to replace my vacuum hoses soon, per my earlier post with the image of the red hoses. Any leads on best affordable way t source these in a kit or independently?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Well, headed off to play a couple baseball games in San Jose today, so we'll see how the runner fares. I'm bringing some wrenches and distilled water and rags, just in case. it's about a 75 miles round trip

thanks guys and have a great one!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

any sport compact/tuner store should have some... have you looked online yet? its just a silicon vacum hose..

snobdds

Good job

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I had in the past for my Datsun, but I guess I was just more concerned about getting the right diameter and knowing how much length of each diameter to get. For the PCV hose, I'm guessing that's something I'll need to get from the dealer since it's so specialized in shape and size.

Is there an accurate way to measure the inner diameter of my hoses, or is that data available somewhere online (don't think the FSM would have that...)?

Thanks

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Phil,

I got almost all dealer Vacuum(BTW, the IACV Vacuum lines are specialized bent hoses as well....41$ for the front and 38$ for the rear) and the PCV was 20-something wholesale, as was the front large vacuum hose to the throttle body.

4Crawler did his in the red like that, and I believe he really thought out the diameter and such, if I remember right. He has a whole section on what vacuum stuff he did on his site, www.4crawler.com, I believe. I think he shares where he got the hoses as well. I think that site that makes the wiring harness wrap(BIG NAME, CAN'T REMEMBER, GRRRR)...oh, PAINLESS is it,......they should have vacuum as well, in section. I think that's where 4crawler got his but can't be sure.

Good luck, Phil, I'M SO HAPPY for you getting that solved! WOOT, WOOT, WOOT! lol.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

So, I'm glad my wife talked me out of driving it all the way to San Jose Sunday (took the "reliable" Bimmer instead). I ended up driving the truck to the train station Monday for my commute (about 7 miles) and WOW, it leaks something aweful.

Turns out it's leaking both oil and coolant.

The oil I can attribute to a crappy install of mine with the pan I dropped. I had expected that and will reinstall it again with my next oil change (which will happen soon, since I primed the pump with vasoline). Question: Do you install a gasket WITH the RTV Silicone, or just use Silicone (I used Silicone but did a bad job putting it on before the install)?

For the coolant leak, it appears to be coming out of the driver's side rear coolant pipe (the one that bolts to the back of the timing cover with 3 bolts). These bolts were a PITA to tighten and I never felt like I got a good seal when putting it back together. Question: Is there a good "Safe" way to bolt these up, since it attaches to a metal tube? For example, can the metal tube somehow be disconnected from the engine block so that it's more "felxible" where it attaches to the timing cover? Last thing I want to do is strip the timing cover HERE as well!


Thanks for any input guys!

Chef - I'm watching your thread and wish I had some recommendations there, but don't

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Phil, I found this one out the hard way(0il Pan), hehe. In the manual, which for some reason I didn't see the first time, it says, in the oil pan section, FINALLY, AT #8. of Section 2A-17, "Before installing the oil pan on PRE-1985 MODELS, apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the flange. Attach the new GASKET to the pan(make sure the bolt holes are aligned). NOTE:>>>>>>> The Oil Pan on 1985 and LATER MODELS doesn't require a gasket-Liquid sealant, available at local parts stores is used instead."

NO gasket for the later model years, EVEN THOUGH THEY SELL THEM, GRRRRR, lol. Mine leaked, with the gasket.....then, did it with RTV alone, just like book describes(on the 4 corners you use more RTV to fill those block to cover and back-block ridges), and apply it IN ALL BOLT HOLES! Mine has studs for the two in front, and they came right out, so I put some in, reinstalled the studs and then used the nuts later with a LIL bit of sealant on the surface where the stud/block surface is. DO NOT go heavy with it, either, ...just use a 'MODERATE' amount and in the manner it diagrams in the book.(I had to hunt for the page where it showed exactly where/how much/ and how to apply the RTV. Also, GET DEALER OIL PAN RTV, it's cheap, and it's REALLY good quality stuff. You don't have to, but I found it easier to work with and MUCH stickier(it held the pan in place much better) and it's rated to work with sealing out Oil the best. However, Permatex and many others have it. I only paid 8$ for it at Toyota, I think. (Oil Pan and Cam Cover RTV).

Far as the water pipe? I used a gasket cut out for mine, since the kit had it sticking out of the timing cover and I couldn't get it out enough to put sealant behind it(oops, lol). Cut that off and replaced it with one I cut out from some Pep Boys 3M Gasket Material(They also make some with sealant already on one side of it, covered with wax type paper). Also, read up on whether one of those bolts gets RTV as well. Don't remember those calling for it, but can't be sure.

PS> 3 Bolts? Hmmm, I'ma go lookand see if I can come up with anything. Maybe ours is set up differently. Mine seems to travel behind the header and then bend upward to a heater hose coming out of the firewall in rear. ??? BBinaminute!

PSS> I just now saw your "Chef, watching your thread..." comment...THANKS, PHIL, I really appreciate it. Sure nuff, if you think of anything let me know. I'm going to be trying a meticulous checklist to really pin this down. AHHHHHHH, LOL. Nah, I'm having fun, just trying to not be a burden to the boss, lol. Bbsoon, hopefully with some thoughts on what I did with your water pipe problem. Pics, maybe?

Good luck, sorry to hear about this, Phil!

Lumpy

Not sure about this one...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Philbert......TURN THE VOLUME DOWN, lol....can't seem to get that right, it's really loud though. Just leave it barely on when playing this video(it's only like 10 seconds)

Is this the pipe you're talking about? And, is it set up differently on your rig, if so? ......

Lumpy

If the pipe on the T-cover is leakin you might get away with using a bit of the copper RTV on the gasket.

hilandfrog

Both of my pipes were leaking.....

It seems that I took too long putting the T-chain cover on and the RTV dried out.

After removing the PS pump and ALT it was a bit easier to get at those 3 bolts and water pipe on the drivers side.
After cutting off the "old", new gasket I made one from a cereal box and added some high temp.

Same thing on the pass side but not much in the way so made things a bit simpler...
I like the vise grip angle, though I did not need them.

Best of luck.

Repo