Richjrosa

Hello all,

Let me first say I just found this site and had to join up. I'm looking at getting a 2nd gen 4 runner maybe third gen. My budget is prob going to keep me in the 2nd gen though. I have mech experience but it's been many years since my last rebuild and that was on v-8 etc. I know the principles are the same. Anyway I'm writing to see if anyone thinks this is a good idea or if I should keep looking. I found a 1990 4 runner with 190 on the motor. It has a blown head gasket and they want 1200 bucks for it. I'm checking the vin with the dealer to see if it has the recal avail. If so it's a no brainer. Anyway I'm also thinking of doing the 3.4 swap. This is a second car for me and a much needed hobby. So the question is if it's not eligible for the fix is 1200 bucks a good deal? What else should I look for on a 4 runner of this vintage and how can I tell if there's been any serious damage to the motor as a result of the blown head gasket? If I wanted to do the swap what type of tools will I need? Should I go for a used 3.4 or buy a crate engine? Other than the long block what parts will I need if i go for the 3.4? I know the exhaust and intake need to be changed what about the computer?

Thanks again for the info and I can't wait to start on this!!

bruzer

I would say 1200 if the runner is in good condition could be worth it. If you do the hg youself then you will only be into it a few hundred more after parts and machine work. If you take it to a shop you can be into it another 1200-2300 dollars. Usually there is no other damage donbe when the heads blow unless it was really over heated and the head cracked.
As far as 3.4 goes, you will need another computer as well as intake, wiring harness, exhuast, engine, ect..

93toyrunner

3.4 swaps are very popular check the engine swap section if the 4runner is a manual you could prabably get the swap done for a little over 1,000 other wise auto you are looking closer to 2,000 i have heard people spending 4,000-5,000 grand on the 3.4 swap so at that point I would get a third gen. I had to redo my 3.0 due to burnt valves and i changed the HG right away and timing belt and pullies and with the machine shop bill and doing all the work myself i spent about $500 or a little less.

T-1000

3.4 swap gets kind of expensive fairly quickly it seems. I've budgeted it out before.

But now I'm probably going to do a Lexus V8 swap. Just a few more things to figure out...

Novak Adapters sells a 4.3 to R series adapter if you want to go that route.

Richjrosa

Thx Buzz. I've read in a couple of threads that mention doing the head gasket the right way. I suppose I'll need to get the block and head milled? What is the correct procedure and how do i know if I need machine work done? The other thing should I have the heads done at that time? I heard and experienced that the added compression created on a top end redo can cause the bottom end to fail earlier than usual.

Thanks again

bruzer

To check for maching work you can put a straight edge across the gasket surfaces on both the head and block and if there is any space between the surface and the straight edge you will need a maching shop. Usually the ends of the head get beveled, and if not delt with, will result in another hg.
As far as the bottom failing, the 3.0 is a tuff little v6 (with the exception of the hg's). But the bottom end is pretty much bullet proof. A little extra compression may do it some good. Besides, if they have to take off that much from the head, you may want to think about another head.

Richjrosa

Thx again.. sorry for being such a novice but if i do have the head gone through new guides reseating valves milling the surface of the head I'd need to have the block surface milled too right?

Richjrosa

How many miles can you get out of a 3.4 v6 if it is taken care of? I'm also looking at a 3rd gen 97 with 240K miles that has lots of maint documentation. They want 6K for it and it's very clean. Thx

abecedarian

There are 3VZE (3.0 v6) engines which have topped 300K+ miles without issue as well as 22RE (the infamous 4Cyl), and there are 3.4's that crap out at 100K. ...in all fairness, there are 3VZE and 22RE's that crap out that soon, if not sooner, as well. Maintenance is important but is not the end-all/be-all definitive answer to which engine will have problems- there are 'tolerances' that will allow a weak engine through just as easily as a strong engine.

Buying a used vehicle is always a gamble, and when one considers these vehicles being an in-demand model (1st gen obviously, and 2nd gen as well), the newer the vehicle is the more I question the motives behind it being offered for sale... and with low miles makes me question the motives even more.

That being said, you have to look at things from every angle since the seller is trying to cover every angle to get someone (hopefully YOU) to buy the vehicle. 1200 for a 2nd gen with a blown engine is not a bad price: at least you buy it KNOWING it needs an engine. Imagine spending 2500 (realistically, a good running 2nd gen V6 can go for at least 3500, possibly more- I had an offer of 4500 for my 91 22re 2wd pickup a few months ago) for a good running truck and the engine blows after 500 miles... and you learn when rebuilding that the previous owner did one of those 'head gasket in a bottle' fixes just so it could be sold.

If you're not immediately willing to buy a truck with no apparent problems just because of a good price (who in their right mind would?), heckle the owner and learn why they are selling it. Be honest and tell them you are willing to buy someone else's headache, but you aren't going to buy it if you don't know the real problems or reasons why they are selling it. Play on the owner's emotions as much as you can- sympathize with them... get them to sympathize with you as well. Get them to lower the price because of things they know are wrong. And be prepared to deal with a seller who knows the cost of repairs- you'll say it'll cost 2000 to replace the engine and they'll come back and say that you can do it for 500 yourself since you know so much about the engine... makes it harder to argue when you're dealing with someone who knows what they're selling.

Wile E. Toyote

second gen for $1200 would be my choice.

You said you needed a hobby. These things are like legos, they come apart, they go together.

RobD

How long with a 3.4 last? How high is up?

I did the swap about a year and a half ago and have zero regrets. Mechanically, it isn't that tough to do, especially if it's a 5-speed. The auto is a little more complex, but you just have to source an engine out of a T100 to make it easier. The electronics aren't all that tough, once you figure out the goal.

How much? Depends on what you spend on the donor engine and how much work you can do yourself. Mine came in around $3000, but knowing what I now know and having a welder, which I didn't at the time, I could do it for less (for the exhaust).

If you want a fun project that makes a second gen more fun to drive and you want the knowledge and experience that comes from doing it yourself, I say go for it.

Any questions, just ask.

bigt

a 22re second gen would be my choice if you dont go 3rd gen..

i go 22r/re first gen or 22re second gen...

if you want to do it right from the start with the best platform!

Richjrosa

First let me thank all of you sooo much for the warm welcome and responses!! I know I'd love the experience of doing the swap. I work for Les Schwab so I can get alot of the parts and technical info at work. I think I'll go for something that needs some attention i just need to find the right platform to start from. I will say it gives me more confidence in doing this know you guys are there to help answer questions when the inevidible questions come up. I've read here that there are swap kits for the 2nd gen to change over to the 3.4. What do they intail and generally where's the best place to get them?

Thanks again your guys rock.

RobD

Off Road Solutions used to be your #1 supplier of swap kits, but they shut their doors a little while back. Their site still has a bunch of technical help, but I drew most of my info from http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48

There is a guy in the 3.4 swap forum here making harnesses and he would probably be your best way to go, if you don't want to tackle the harness yourself (not super tough, but time consuming and if he does tons of them, he'll be better at doing them).

Richjrosa

Thanks Rob.. The other consideration is the tranny. Most of the 4 runners I'm seeing are autos. There are a few manuals out there. Are there any known issues with the autos on the 2nd gens? I have a MazdaSpeed 3 so sticks are a way of life for me. The above mentioned 1200 deal is an auto. I could go either way since it's not going to be a rock crawler in my case. LOL A stick is nice when climbing hills though.