No electrical power?
#1
No electrical power?
1995 pickup 3.0 3vze has no electrical power whatsoever. I pulled into a gas station the other night got back in the truck and there was absolutely nothing. I don't recall hearing anything pop like a spark. I've check the 80 alt fuse the 30 and 40 amp fuses and the other fuses located on passenger side behind battery. Ther seems to be only like 10 fuses in there. Is there not another fuse box in this truck? I know my battery has power and the connections are tight. There are like two big square fuses that I don't know how to check if there good or bad and I'm not sure if these would be a culprit to the problem.
#2
I'm wondering if it may be the fusible link running from the battery to the fusebox. What is the best way of checking that? Also what is the main fuse, is or are the main fuse/fuses located in the fuse box?
#3
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If there's no power to anything it's somewhere between the battery and the fuse panel under the hood or between the battery and chassis / frame ground. Autoparts stores, radio shack, many grocery or drug stores even have cheap analog meters that can measure continuity and / or audible continuity testers that beep if the circuit is continuous.
#4
Registered User
Yes, there is another fuse block behind a small cover on the left kick panel. Pop off the 3" or so square cover and the fuses are behind.
But, it you don't have power to any electrical items like headlights (key off), radio (acc position), or turn signals (on position) then it's likely the fusible link is burned. The following is pasted from another thread:
There is "fusible link" wire between the battery and the under-hood fuse block. This is a piece of wire that is smaller in diameter then the rest of the wiring and has a special flame proof insulation. The purpose is to melt this piece during a major short in order to save the fuse block and wiring into the cab and to prevent a fire. The wire inside the link burns up but the special insulation won't catch on fire. It will bubble and look distorted so that is the next thing to check. The wire that goes directly from the battery to the fuse block has the link. take the cover off the under-hood fuse block and check for voltage between the "dome" fuse (center row of small fuses, engine side 15 A fuse) and the negative battery terminal. If you have 12v here you know the link is Ok. If not, peel back the sheathing over the wire and see if the insulation anywhere along the wire looks melted. You can buy new fusible link to splice in from Auto Zone, Checker, etc., but you definitely don't want to use regular wire. While you're in the fuse block, take a look at the 80A Alt fuse, and the 40A and 30A AM-1&2 fuses. If you find a burned out fuse the block will have to be unbolted and removed to get to the inside. The big fuses are held in with small bolts and can't be just pulled out.
The fusible link won't just burn up for no reason, so first check to be sure it is securely connected to the battery and the fuse block and not corroded, and then check if it's blown. If it is blown, then you have a major short to ground somewhere that needs to be found or a new link will blow again. Look for any insulation chafing along the wire from the battery to the fuse block and make sure it is clear of any sharp metal.
The big square ones with plastic covers are actually relays controlling equipment such as the EFI system and are definitely not the problem if you have no electrical power.
But, it you don't have power to any electrical items like headlights (key off), radio (acc position), or turn signals (on position) then it's likely the fusible link is burned. The following is pasted from another thread:
There is "fusible link" wire between the battery and the under-hood fuse block. This is a piece of wire that is smaller in diameter then the rest of the wiring and has a special flame proof insulation. The purpose is to melt this piece during a major short in order to save the fuse block and wiring into the cab and to prevent a fire. The wire inside the link burns up but the special insulation won't catch on fire. It will bubble and look distorted so that is the next thing to check. The wire that goes directly from the battery to the fuse block has the link. take the cover off the under-hood fuse block and check for voltage between the "dome" fuse (center row of small fuses, engine side 15 A fuse) and the negative battery terminal. If you have 12v here you know the link is Ok. If not, peel back the sheathing over the wire and see if the insulation anywhere along the wire looks melted. You can buy new fusible link to splice in from Auto Zone, Checker, etc., but you definitely don't want to use regular wire. While you're in the fuse block, take a look at the 80A Alt fuse, and the 40A and 30A AM-1&2 fuses. If you find a burned out fuse the block will have to be unbolted and removed to get to the inside. The big fuses are held in with small bolts and can't be just pulled out.
The fusible link won't just burn up for no reason, so first check to be sure it is securely connected to the battery and the fuse block and not corroded, and then check if it's blown. If it is blown, then you have a major short to ground somewhere that needs to be found or a new link will blow again. Look for any insulation chafing along the wire from the battery to the fuse block and make sure it is clear of any sharp metal.
The big square ones with plastic covers are actually relays controlling equipment such as the EFI system and are definitely not the problem if you have no electrical power.
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