New 22RE Performance Engine Install
#21
Registered User
Awesome reference pictures! Replacing my engine in the next few weeks! I am looking for any advice planning the install. Do you know a good list of parts to replace while I am installing it?
I know I will do the clutch and general radiator hoses, and heat hoses.
What about sensors?
I am also going to take a look at the injectors while they are to see if the need cleaned and rebuilt.
I know I will do the clutch and general radiator hoses, and heat hoses.
What about sensors?
I am also going to take a look at the injectors while they are to see if the need cleaned and rebuilt.
#22
Looks like you did a great job and have a great engine. I'm curious about Putney's recommendation that you don't need to re-torque the head bolts.
When I rebuilt my 22R I carefully torqued the head bolts when assembling the engine and then followed the conventional wisdom and re-torqued them after the engine had run for awhile. I was really surprised at how loose they seemed and they turned about a quarter turn more before reaching the same torque reading as when I originally torqued them.
I used a Toyota head gasket which seems to be slightly thicker than aftermarket gaskets I've seen and I'm pretty sure the composition gasket material compresses a little bit more with heat cycles and can use the re-torquing exercise, which is very easy to do.
Just curious why Putney's would not recommend re-torquing and it would sure be educational if you could call or email them and ask for their specific reasoning. I"m sure they know a lot more about the topic than I do. I'd ask them myself but you would likely get a better response, being a paying customer.
Seems to me that re-torquing it now might help the head gasket seal for a longer time once the motor gets thousands and thousands of miles on it.
Thanks,
Bob
When I rebuilt my 22R I carefully torqued the head bolts when assembling the engine and then followed the conventional wisdom and re-torqued them after the engine had run for awhile. I was really surprised at how loose they seemed and they turned about a quarter turn more before reaching the same torque reading as when I originally torqued them.
I used a Toyota head gasket which seems to be slightly thicker than aftermarket gaskets I've seen and I'm pretty sure the composition gasket material compresses a little bit more with heat cycles and can use the re-torquing exercise, which is very easy to do.
Just curious why Putney's would not recommend re-torquing and it would sure be educational if you could call or email them and ask for their specific reasoning. I"m sure they know a lot more about the topic than I do. I'd ask them myself but you would likely get a better response, being a paying customer.
Seems to me that re-torquing it now might help the head gasket seal for a longer time once the motor gets thousands and thousands of miles on it.
Thanks,
Bob
Last edited by Bob_T; 10-16-2011 at 08:30 AM.
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Awesome reference pictures! Replacing my engine in the next few weeks! I am looking for any advice planning the install. Do you know a good list of parts to replace while I am installing it?
I know I will do the clutch and general radiator hoses, and heat hoses.
What about sensors?
I am also going to take a look at the injectors while they are to see if the need cleaned and rebuilt.
I know I will do the clutch and general radiator hoses, and heat hoses.
What about sensors?
I am also going to take a look at the injectors while they are to see if the need cleaned and rebuilt.
When I started to gather parts, I mainly went for the wear items. The block ships from Putney's all set to just bolt in. From memory here, but its still pretty recent:
Complete OEM gasket kit. (Didn't use most of it, but it had the weird gaskets)
Complete intake and exhaust studs and bolts.
New clutch Kit.
New Tranny input seal.
New Slave cylinder
New fuel filter
Sent injectors to Witchhunter to get cleaned.
New Fan Clutch
New Belts
All new hoses - Upper/Lower/Mid/Heater/under Intake/ Lower Vacuum Only
New dual stage thermostat
Put new brushes into the alternator
Put new starter contacts in the starter.
I did not touch any of the sensors at all. The TPS wasn't touched, the cold start injector tested fine as did the themo sensor. I have since replaced the O2 sensor...just because I was board on day. Also reused the knock sensor and the oil pressure light sensor.
To date the motor has been awesome. I have been taking the truck to the cabin every other weekend and no problems at all. I took it hunting this past weekend in 18 + inches of snow and it one of the few trucks with no chains on getting around. It runs strong and the best part...No leaks what so ever, right at 4,000 miles right now. I can pull hills a full gear lower than I use to.
Here is a picture of it in action in the Snowy Range Mountains during elk season...This was after 3 days of melt.
Last edited by snobdds; 01-09-2012 at 12:04 PM.
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Looks like you did a great job and have a great engine. I'm curious about Putney's recommendation that you don't need to re-torque the head bolts.
When I rebuilt my 22R I carefully torqued the head bolts when assembling the engine and then followed the conventional wisdom and re-torqued them after the engine had run for awhile. I was really surprised at how loose they seemed and they turned about a quarter turn more before reaching the same torque reading as when I originally torqued them.
I used a Toyota head gasket which seems to be slightly thicker than aftermarket gaskets I've seen and I'm pretty sure the composition gasket material compresses a little bit more with heat cycles and can use the re-torquing exercise, which is very easy to do.
Just curious why Putney's would not recommend re-torquing and it would sure be educational if you could call or email them and ask for their specific reasoning. I"m sure they know a lot more about the topic than I do. I'd ask them myself but you would likely get a better response, being a paying customer.
Seems to me that re-torquing it now might help the head gasket seal for a longer time once the motor gets thousands and thousands of miles on it.
Thanks,
Bob
When I rebuilt my 22R I carefully torqued the head bolts when assembling the engine and then followed the conventional wisdom and re-torqued them after the engine had run for awhile. I was really surprised at how loose they seemed and they turned about a quarter turn more before reaching the same torque reading as when I originally torqued them.
I used a Toyota head gasket which seems to be slightly thicker than aftermarket gaskets I've seen and I'm pretty sure the composition gasket material compresses a little bit more with heat cycles and can use the re-torquing exercise, which is very easy to do.
Just curious why Putney's would not recommend re-torquing and it would sure be educational if you could call or email them and ask for their specific reasoning. I"m sure they know a lot more about the topic than I do. I'd ask them myself but you would likely get a better response, being a paying customer.
Seems to me that re-torquing it now might help the head gasket seal for a longer time once the motor gets thousands and thousands of miles on it.
Thanks,
Bob
I think manufactures and retailers tell people to do it just because they know how inaccurate some of the torque wrenches are out there that DYI's are using. If it saves them some hassle on phone calls from upset customers, it makes some business sense.
I have 4,000 miles of no coolant leaks, so I am either lucky or it doesn’t need to happen. I think if you have a good builder with good tools who uses good parts...don't worry about it. I have also not adjusted my valves once, I am suppose to do it at 30,000 miles... if there is any valve train noise The motor is quite and the only tick comes from the injectors.
Last edited by snobdds; 01-09-2012 at 12:05 PM.
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am at the point now where on my next oil change I want to go synthetic. In the wife's Mercedes ML500, I use a Mobil 1 0w-40. This is a true grade IV oil and is not a highly refined mineral oil like the other Mobil 1 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils are. This is some remarkable oil and it lasts forever. Her car goes 14,000 miles before an oil change is needed. Now, I won't ever let the oil go that long just because of the conditions I drive the truck in, but I want that kind of protection. I would just go Amsoil, but I get the 0w-40 by the case for the wife and it would just simplify my oil buying. I will update this thread when I decide what to do about the oil.
I am planning on replacing the engine on my fathers hunting truck with another engine from Jim at Putney's / 22RE Preformance here next fall. He is the only engine builder I know that builds a great engine. A little expensive, but super cheap in the long run...
#30
Excellent. Thanks for the update. I rebuilt my 22R myself, a very low budget job and it's OK, but I can sure see the advantage to going the way you did. My engine performance and mileage is not what yours is.
Bob
Bob
#32
Thanks for the update. I go with the mantra do it right the first time, even if it cost more. Most of the time, this means it will be cheaper in the long run. I am debating on a OM602/ 3rz swap or getting a 22re. I would like some more power form the 22re. Did you notice a difference power? Maybe I missed it, but how many HP is the stage 2/2.5?
#33
Registered User
Dude I know what you mean !! I just did my 22RE motor in my 85 i used all engine builder parts and had it assembled by this ole guy that was always known as THEE ENGINE GUY around these parts . He used to have a machine shop and hes now retired but if you get referred to him he'll build you a motor in his at home machine shop . This guy is freakin awesome he built me a motor for my 93 TBI chevy truck that was flat out badd ass and even made it pass smog and work with the stock computer .. anyway back to my 22RE lol. I am so happy with it it really does seem like it gets more powerful every time I drive it . Im only at 400 miles so Im getting ready to do an oil change too. I was thinking Ill get5k on it and go synthetic too ... did you happen to decide on an oil WT yet ??
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
I noticed a bit more power, only because I think my old engine was more tired than I thought. The biggest difference is how smooth the motor is, it has a nice power / torque band. I can't remember what the horsepower was with this motor, but with me being at 6,200 feet above sea level...it hardley matters. It's not a power horse by any means.
I have adjusted my driving habits to this truck. For some reason, I don't feel the need to get anywhere quick when I am in it. I just putz around and enjoy the slow pace, it has a calming effect. That's why I keep it.
I have adjusted my driving habits to this truck. For some reason, I don't feel the need to get anywhere quick when I am in it. I just putz around and enjoy the slow pace, it has a calming effect. That's why I keep it.
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am in the process of having a fiberglass bed built for it. So that means it is getting a new paint job as we speak. Will update with pictures later...
#40
Registered User
I am new to YOTATECH,I just wannna say thats is a very fine job you did on the P/U.I am getting ready to change out the 22RE on my 1987 4 Runner soon.Hope it turns out like yours did.....Nice clean job..........God Bless