name this part (connect to idler arm)
10-02-2012, 07:48 PM
#24
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I still want to know the purpose of the bicycle tube and the zip ties 
I can't for the life of me think of what the "repair tech" was thinking when they did that 
Maybe they thought since the boot was busted and grease was leaking that would be a good way to seal it up? Some peoples kids. I'd call the guy I bought that truck from and direct him to Yotatech 
I can't for the life of me think of what the "repair tech" was thinking when they did that Maybe they thought since the boot was busted and grease was leaking that would be a good way to seal it up? Some peoples kids. I'd call the guy I bought that truck from and direct him to Yotatech
10-02-2012, 07:53 PM
#26
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Luvmeye i think its not for seal it up but to reduce the play so i wont feel the clunk.they were tubes n zipties on both sides till the pass side ripped off n i feel the "clunk" but i drove like that for more than a year with tubes both sides n no clunk
When i bought it i saw those tubes were there but i didnt think of anything
When i bought it i saw those tubes were there but i didnt think of anything
10-02-2012, 07:57 PM
#27
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An alignment would still be a good idea especially if you have decent tires. Different parts, different specs, etc. It was aligned probably a while ago and it was done when that part was still probably not new and if it was done when it was new, it's probably even further out of whack. The tires will tell you soon unless you measure. I'd wager a 100% guess it's out of proper alignment but as it sits it seems safe at this point. I'd give the ball joints etc. another wiggle to check for further wear before that time comes just in case. Either way, it's not a big deal. Coming from a fellow cheap guy, I'd do it just to save money on tires but I bet tires on that thing don't cost nearly as much as the tires on my 4x4 would so..... I get it
If your tires aren't ideal and you don't really care just align it when you are due for tires
If your tires aren't ideal and you don't really care just align it when you are due for tires
10-02-2012, 08:03 PM
#28
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Luvmeye i think its not for seal it up but to reduce the play so i wont feel the clunk.they were tubes n zipties on both sides till the pass side ripped off n i feel the "clunk" but i drove like that for more than a year with tubes both sides n no clunk
When i bought it i saw those tubes were there but i didnt think of anything
When i bought it i saw those tubes were there but i didnt think of anything
Just like I always say... "Even when my Toyota is broken, it still runs better than most cars."
That was a sketchy situation though and I'm glad it got handled. What all parts did you end up with for $270?
10-02-2012, 08:28 PM
#29
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Man, that is WRONG lol. I would never trust a zip tie and bicycle tube to reduce my clunk factor. It seems he may have done that just to sell it... The economy causes crazy things at times! (I'm going to blame the economy since the guy didn't tell you your steering was ready to fall off soon).
Just like I always say... "Even when my Toyota is broken, it still runs better than most cars."
That was a sketchy situation though and I'm glad it got handled. What all parts did you end up with for $270?
Just like I always say... "Even when my Toyota is broken, it still runs better than most cars."
That was a sketchy situation though and I'm glad it got handled. What all parts did you end up with for $270?
That had to be the wrong center link for this truck if PO used a rubber inner tube as spacers, that's a definite
Last edited by ksti; 10-02-2012 at 08:30 PM.
10-02-2012, 08:51 PM
#30
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Yea my front tires are bad from that problem,so since alignment will cost me some $$ so just wait for tires due which is very soon
I went drive it on highway today and it didnt pull or anything weird,speedbumps went fine without clunk or wiggle on steering wheel
I went drive it on highway today and it didnt pull or anything weird,speedbumps went fine without clunk or wiggle on steering wheel
10-02-2012, 08:56 PM
#31
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10-02-2012, 09:01 PM
#32
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I went through the same thing recently. One of my lower ball joints was an aftermarket piece of poorly designed junk. Long story short the upper part of the ball joint DID NOT fit into the tapered cup part it was supposed to fit into. Well who ever put it in just torqued the bolts down leaving a 1/4" gap between the plate on the ball joint and the mounting surface of the knucle. It was like that for quite some time! I don't know how that truck made it as long as it did.
Needless to say I'm poor. I did that lower bj instantly. Then it turned out I needed the other lower bj, a pitman arm and an idler arm....
Did all that, already drove better.
Got an alignment, drove even better.
New tires, feels like a new car.
After I get shocks.... Gonna be a sweet ride!
You'll love new tires!
Needless to say I'm poor. I did that lower bj instantly. Then it turned out I needed the other lower bj, a pitman arm and an idler arm....
Did all that, already drove better.
Got an alignment, drove even better.
New tires, feels like a new car.
After I get shocks....
Gonna be a sweet ride!You'll love new tires!
10-02-2012, 09:11 PM
#33
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Parts
Idler arm $26 plus tax
Center link $58 plus tax
Tools (rent)
Slide hammer $80
Fork puller $15
3jaws puller $50
Return everything today
Got castrol 5 20w,oil filter n 5 different oil filter remover for my 240sx that ended up return 5 of them bc didnt fit
Im not sure how much i spent but i know my credit cd limit only $270 left and i kept using it till got declined
Idler arm $26 plus tax
Center link $58 plus tax
Tools (rent)
Slide hammer $80
Fork puller $15
3jaws puller $50
Return everything today
Got castrol 5 20w,oil filter n 5 different oil filter remover for my 240sx that ended up return 5 of them bc didnt fit
Im not sure how much i spent but i know my credit cd limit only $270 left and i kept using it till got declined
10-02-2012, 09:13 PM
#35
Registered User
I went through the same thing recently. One of my lower ball joints was an aftermarket piece of poorly designed junk. Long story short the upper part of the ball joint DID NOT fit into the tapered cup part it was supposed to fit into. Well who ever put it in just torqued the bolts down leaving a 1/4" gap between the plate on the ball joint and the mounting surface of the knucle. It was like that for quite some time! I don't know how that truck made it as long as it did.
Needless to say I'm poor. I did that lower bj instantly. Then it turned out I needed the other lower bj, a pitman arm and an idler arm....
Did all that, already drove better.
Got an alignment, drove even better.
New tires, feels like a new car.
After I get shocks.... Gonna be a sweet ride!
You'll love new tires!
Needless to say I'm poor. I did that lower bj instantly. Then it turned out I needed the other lower bj, a pitman arm and an idler arm....
Did all that, already drove better.
Got an alignment, drove even better.
New tires, feels like a new car.
After I get shocks....
Gonna be a sweet ride!You'll love new tires!
10-02-2012, 09:38 PM
#40
Registered User
It has to be one of the most epic "fail" repair pics I've seen in ages.
I do have to admit it was a little out of line to harass YOU for what somebody ELSE did.
That said, I'm glad you didn't wait and got it taken care of.
Another pic for the fail blog!
I do have to admit it was a little out of line to harass YOU for what somebody ELSE did.
That said, I'm glad you didn't wait and got it taken care of.
Another pic for the fail blog!
