My ball joint spacer writeup
05-18-2008, 10:19 AM
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My ball joint spacer writeup
Just installed the spacers. Work wasn't too bad, took me about 3.5 hrs solo.
Also wanted to add best way to jack up truck for spacer install. I'm not the most smartest guy when it comes to this stuff and it's what took me so long to figure out.
When doing the spacers, jack up & hold your truck this way
NOT THIS WAY!
I couldn't figure out why the ball joint wasn't falling out, then after an hour staring at it, the light bulb came on. DUH! How is the bj going to fall out, when it's being pushed up by the jack/stand? I'm sure this is common sense to most haha, but it wasn't in any of the write ups and would've save me an hour.
Don't forget to use something to hold up the UCA. It will make it easier to squeeze the bj under the spacer.
Cuts in UCA to make room for spacer
Cut out the metal, grind it if possible, then spray paint it to prevent rust
Spacer & new BJ installed
End result
My fender lip was at 14", I'm going to relax the t-bars for more travel.
Shot of old shocks to be replaced w/longer ones this week.
Hope this helps someont out!
Also wanted to add best way to jack up truck for spacer install. I'm not the most smartest guy when it comes to this stuff and it's what took me so long to figure out.
When doing the spacers, jack up & hold your truck this way
NOT THIS WAY!
I couldn't figure out why the ball joint wasn't falling out, then after an hour staring at it, the light bulb came on. DUH! How is the bj going to fall out, when it's being pushed up by the jack/stand? I'm sure this is common sense to most haha, but it wasn't in any of the write ups and would've save me an hour.
Don't forget to use something to hold up the UCA. It will make it easier to squeeze the bj under the spacer.
Cuts in UCA to make room for spacer
Cut out the metal, grind it if possible, then spray paint it to prevent rust
Spacer & new BJ installed
End result
My fender lip was at 14", I'm going to relax the t-bars for more travel.
Shot of old shocks to be replaced w/longer ones this week.
Hope this helps someont out!
05-18-2008, 10:26 AM
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Good stuff. I laughed out loud at your second picture 
Also, people... follow the torque specs on your new bj spacer bolts. If you reef on them they are gonna snap.
Also, people... follow the torque specs on your new bj spacer bolts. If you reef on them they are gonna snap.
Last edited by Jay351; 05-18-2008 at 10:27 AM.
They are indeed allen head bolts secured with two nuts at the end.
05-18-2008, 11:05 AM
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sheesh... I just realized it was a perspective problem affecting my eyes. If I'd have looked closer I would've seen that you had one inboard and one outboard bolt installed in the pic. For some reason I had it in my head that the outboard side was narrower than the inboard.
Okay, call me slow.
Now, this may be a matter of preference, but I would've put the bolts in from the top. Call it a hard habit of mine but I'd rather loose the nut than the bolt.
Also, is that one plain nut and a nylock jammed on top of it?
Okay, call me slow.
Now, this may be a matter of preference, but I would've put the bolts in from the top. Call it a hard habit of mine but I'd rather loose the nut than the bolt.
Also, is that one plain nut and a nylock jammed on top of it?
Last edited by abecedarian; 05-18-2008 at 11:07 AM.
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05-18-2008, 11:15 AM
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Yes. You torque the first "regular" nut down, then you snug the nylock nut up against that.
There is not way you will lose these guys.
Besides, the factory bolts are installed the same way, minus the extra jam nut.
There is not way you will lose these guys.
Besides, the factory bolts are installed the same way, minus the extra jam nut.
05-18-2008, 12:26 PM
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I was out doing some errands, thanks Jay for answering the questions. Yes, guys, Jay is absolutely right. There are 4 bolts per spacer and 2 nuts per bolt. I just happened to take a pic with 2 bolts and nuts per bolt, to hold it till they are torqued. And yes, the reason I put the nuts on the top end, is because that's how the factory does it, plus SDORI and 4crawler's sites have it the same way.
05-18-2008, 08:18 PM
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I need to do this. P.O. installed 3" lift leafs in the back and wailed on the t-bars up front. rides like a dump truck. i think it has about 1/2" of downtravel, which is 1/2" more than it did before i relaxed them to get it off the bumpstops. very anti-cool.
how do you like them? is there any need for a alignment after this?
how do you like them? is there any need for a alignment after this?
05-18-2008, 08:25 PM
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Yes, you defnitely need an alignment after. There are "how to" threads on that as well. I haven't driven the truck yet cuz I need to go buy a torque wrench and also I don't have any front shocks now. I'm ordering them tomo.
You should do it. I am VERY mechanically challenged and it didn't seem that hard.
You should do it. I am VERY mechanically challenged and it didn't seem that hard.
05-18-2008, 08:28 PM
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haha, yeah it doesn't seem that hard, but i'm in college and $$$ is tight right now. not to mention time. but i want my nice ride back so bad!!!!
i do have the front tie rod recall thingy for my 4Runner, maybe i should do this and then get Toyota to align it for free with the recall!
BTW how you like your bikini top? i'm considering one for mine for the summer months.
i do have the front tie rod recall thingy for my 4Runner, maybe i should do this and then get Toyota to align it for free with the recall!
BTW how you like your bikini top? i'm considering one for mine for the summer months.
05-19-2008, 06:21 AM
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BTW, SDORI's instructions say torque the nuts to 44 ft-lb and 4Crawler's instructions say 33 ft-lbs. What torque are you guys using? I did 33 ft-lbs like Roger said, since I used anti-seize on the fasteners (I usually adjust torque values down 10% when I have some sort of lube on them). I also figured that if the higher value is right, then I can always go back and bump them up.
05-19-2008, 11:56 AM
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05-24-2008, 05:30 PM
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Punching the old bolts
I am installing the spacers on a 92 4runner. I got half way there and am having trouble with the original bolts. I have secured them and slammed them pretty hard but they won't budge. Is there a better way to do this with less potential for destroying something?
