tys_toyota

I recently bought an 88 yota with a 22re. I replaced the drums pads and brake cylinders and bled the brakes and put new fluid in it but the pedal still goes to the floor unless i pump the brakes and then the motor dies. Do i need to replace the master cylinder?

ThatGuy1295

Probably replace master and/or booster. Spongy after bleeding sounds like a bad master.
But the engine shouldnt die, thats sounds like a vacuum leak in the booster or your idle is to low to begin with,, maybe?

tys_toyota

Theres a small crack in my air intake box, would that contribute to my problem? I checked the valve which seems to be functioning propperly when i blew through it. When i pulled the vaccuum hose from the intake the motor doesnt die down when i apply the brakes and the pressure builds up in the lines and the pedal no longer goes to the floor. I still havent tried turning up the idle yet. I'll try that next. Should i try replacing the lines? Does that still sound like its the booster/master cylinder?

tys_toyota

I turned the idle up enough to see if it would fix the problem and it did make a slight difference but didnt solve the problem

angrybob

Booster diaphragm has a tear in it if your engine dies when you hit the brakes. A tear provides the engine vacuum a path to your interior (read: no vacuum).

What happens when you start the truck with the brake pedal pushed?

Plug the vacuum line and push the brake pedal. If it doesn't stall, you've probably identified your problem.

ksti

Also maybe check valve is busted inside?

tys_toyota

So i cant figure out how to post another question so im reposting on this. Iveever solved the brake issue, new booster. Did a tune up on my truck and bought 32" super swampers and dropped into a puddle that was a little to deep for my stock lift and hydro locked the motor. I bought a rebuilt 22r for 220$ in washington and cant seem to get it running right. I think the timing is right. My buddy helped me do it and we bypassed egr system which i was told would give me more power. Put a header on it, new cap plugs rotor air filter. But everytime i give it gas it seems to stall out. It will drive but anything more than a little throttle and it wont accelerate. I cut the cat out hoping it was just clogged but didnt seem to solve my problem. I was also told the timing could be out but it starts up kust fine and sounds good when i rev it up while its in the drive way but once i take off the check engine light comes on and starts to stall. Any ideas???

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

Boy, your engine dies when you hit the brakes, then your engine dies when you hit the gas. Tough luck!!

Seriously though, if you cut out the cat, what did you do with the O2 sensor? The computer needs that data to run your engine...and when you bypassed the EGR, are you sure you have no leaks?

I'm not a 22 guy, so I can't offer any other ideas.

combatcarl

How's your TPS check out? AFM work right? Check fuel pressure, too.

tys_toyota

I did solve the brake problem ive just aquired a new one. The only sensor i seen on the exhaust was before the cat. And im not sure there isnt any leaks. Ive checked every line with starting fluid and didnt find one. Im not familiar with TPS or AFM. How do i check that. And ill definitely check my fuel pressure when i get home. The fuel pump is also running much louder than it did before the motor swap.

combatcarl

TPS is throttle position sensor. If it's out of spec, it isn't telling your ECU where the throttle plate is positioned, leading to fueling issues.
AFM is air flow meter, tells your ECU how much air is entering the engine, if it isn't working correctly, it will give on throttle issues.
Sensor in exhaust ahead of cat converter is O2 sensor, tells ECU how to tune the fuel mix by reading oxygen amounts remaining in exhaust stream. PM sent.

Pat8942

Since your pump is loud, I would suspect that it's bad and not delivering enough fuel, That would explain why it won't run much faster than an idle.

tys_toyota

So if all the sensors arent hooked up propperly it wont run like it should?

combatcarl

Correct, with some exceptions. Stuff like the gauge senders for temp, oil, etc, won't affect running, (your gauges just won't work) and some others, like EGR temp sensor, won't affect running, but will pop the check engine light on. Some though, are critical to running properly, and those are things like TPS, O2, AFM, and a couple others. Even a Haynes or chiltons manual breaks down how to test and set the ones that are important, and/or adjustable.

Pat8942

Have you even bothered to check fuel pressure and volume?

DirtyHarry460

Turn your idle down, to 750 rpm, that will solve your. Brake problem I think

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Your first post said you have a 22re, but after you replaced the motor you said you now have a 22r. I'm going to assume you forgot the 'e' and you still have the same motor. Carb v. EFI can make a big difference. Get a Haynes or Chilton's manual and keep it in the truck. Start with the simple stuff: TPS check, AFM check, timing and vacuum leaks. Sometimes the biggest pain in the a$$ can be a real simple fix which only makes it a bigger pain in the a$$ once you figure that out.

My first guess is that your timing is off. Are you at 5* BTDC with your TE1 and E1 terminals jumped? Your timing should be around 12-14* BTDC at idle speed (750 RPM) without the jumper. Another quick check is to unplug your TPS and rev the engine and see what happens. Unplugging the TPS will put the ECU into 'safe running' mode (it's different than having the TPS out of spec because rather than the ECU getting the wrong info from the TPS it knows it's not getting anything at all). It will still run, but it won't have the optimal air/fuel mixture and it should throw a CEL code. If your not having the same problem with the TPS unplugged you just found the culprit (it's either out of spec or it's gone bad).

Just a few other ideas: Some people have reported sh&*$% performance because of the brand of plugs they're using. That could be a simple fix.

Try revving the engine up slowly by hand on the side of the throttle body vs. popping it up real quick and see if there's a difference. Don't just check vacuum lines for leaks. Make sure you check your air intake between the AFM and throttle body, throttle body gasket, intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket for vacuum leaks too. Use an unlit propane torch to check for leaks and put the nozzle end everywhere it will reach under the hood.

Pat8942

Since it's just a guessing game, I'll guess the washer bottle is empty.

tys_toyota

Ok. That helps a lot. I had a 22re and then i got a good deal on a 22r and just put my efi system on the 22r! My uncle did the timing on the truck and adjusted the valves and it runs way better than it did but still is lacking a lot of power. Its no longer cutting out and but taking longer to get up to speed. What kind of plugs should i run? I just put ngk in the old motor before i threw rods through the block, so i just the old ones into my new motor

tys_toyota

Ok. That helps a lot. I had a 22re and then i got a good deal on a 22r and just put my efi system on the 22r! My uncle did the timing on the truck and adjusted the valves and it runs way better than it did but still is lacking a lot of power. Its no longer cutting out and but taking longer to get up to speed. What kind of plugs should i run? I just put ngk in the old motor before i threw rods through the block, so i just the old ones into my new motor