Janos01

Nice Yota you have there, Mine is a 1990 4runner, same color. How goes your progress on the rebuild? Im having to completely REBUILD my 3vz due to my head gasket blowing for the second time and having to re-hone 2 cylinders.

Also, as some members have mentioned on previous posts, a good header set would be recommend as it improves the exhaust flow and takes away heat from cylinder #6, where the HG commonly blows from.

I bought this header set from Summit Racing:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dt.../model/4runner

LolaL

double post. oops

LolaL

Just got a package from ENGNBLDR this morning before I left for work. I haven't even opened it yet. Can't wait to get home tonight!

Progress on the rebuild should pick up after I get the block back from the machine shop (going to drop it off Monday with the pistons). The head work is done, though I need to check the valve lash once I put it back together. I checked them before I ground the valves and valve seats, so I'm sure they've changed. I need to find a good source of a pile of bucket lifter shims in case I have to adjust anything too. Hrm...

I take it you haven't installed the headers yet if you've blown the HG twice now?

I tried looking up the VIN in vehicle history, but the only things that came up were the HG recall and something else minor. But now I'm wondering if that was the truck with its ORIGINAL engine rather than this remanned one I currently have. Ah, life's many mysteries.

I have Mondays off, so hopefully after block machining, I'll be able to start posting pictures of things going back together! If anyone has picture requests, let me know

or measurement requests. I took all kinds of engine measurements but thought they'd just bore everyone.

Janos01

Reguarding the headers, my dad and I reshearched this for a bit, at the time we did not know of a fix as most 3vz engines are plaged with HGs blowing. As I mentioned above, there were some posts by other members saying installing headers on the 3vz should help or eliminate the hot spot that builds up on Cylinder #6.

My current 3vz was pulled from a 93 4Runner from a junkyard. I was lucky as the engine was not harmed by the elements and it had headwork done already. When the HG blew the first time, it was because of a worn head, second time was this past January, and 2 cylinders went with it.

If your engine is a 3vz V6 3.0L like mine, the HG could blow sometime within its life. Also with the work im having done now, the shop is installing steel Head Gaskets that are from Toyota insted of the composite ones. Hopefully, with that and the headers, I will not have to mess with my engine for a long while.

LolaL

speaking of gaskets and seals...
I'm not sure how I feel about all these parts. Most of the vacuum system gaskets are paper (even the WP gasket is paper, though I'm using the metal Aisin one that came with the timing belt component kit). It feels weird going from Toyota parts like select-fit bearings to paper gaskets. The valve stem seals are the same for intake and exhaust too, it looks like (vs. Toyota's differing ones).

thoughts? Obviously any reviews of anything, not just DNJ brand (it looks like the rebuild kit I have is all DNJ (Domestic 'n Japanese, how creative)) I read online are
A: I used X product and it's GREAT!
B: Piece of crap failed after 2 months

Maybe I'm just feeling anxious because I don't want to have to rebuild the same engine too soon. I'm sure these will work fine, so I'll blame the lack of sleep on my >_<

and a picture because, well, I like pictures.

box of very patriotic made in china

millball

Genuine Toyota or Ishino Stone gaskets are the highest quality.

When you compare these Japanese made gaskets side by side with any others, you will see what third rate junk the other stuff really is.

You are doing a very methodical and comprehensive rebuild, your engine deserves the best components you can get.

superex87

I have all ways been cautious of non- oem parts. Unless you know what company originally made the parts for toyota then its a crap shoot. I personally would only use oem gaskets. they are cheap insurance against leaks. If you look at the aisin water pump gasket you will see it has a rubber seal built into it. No after market water pump gasket I have seen has this seal. My 3vz has a duracrap water pump and gasket and the damn thing leaks from the gasket........save yourself the pain and suffering and use oem gaskets.

LolaL

so it was right to be kicking myself after I opened the package?
I'm debating whether or not I should find a different source for pistons and oil pump now too. On the one hand, I want to get this engine done. On the other, I don't want to just throw "cheap" parts on it.

so, with the bearings (main and connecting rods), Toyota and other imports have select-fit style, where you go by the crank/block codes and measured oil clearances, then select the appropriate size to get the standard range of oil clearance. All of the rebuild kits I've looked at just have "standard" or 0.010"-0.030" undersized (for those who machine their cranks). None seem to have select fit. Any thoughts on how critical getting everything "just right" would be?

(i.e. am I just trying to "put lipstick on a pig"?)

millball

The machine shop that bores your block should fit your new pistons to near minimum clearances.
As to engine parts, NPR pistons and rings are good, and not too expensive+ may well have been an OEM supplier.
I don't think the 'selective fit' parts used by the factory are generally available.
Do you require crank grinding?? The machine shop should do the work so that your new undersize bearings will be clearanced right, as well.
Do your best work with the best parts you can get, but, after all, its not a highly stressed racing engine. You seem to be doing all the right stuff and asking all the right questions!!

LolaL

^^ haha, right after I posted, I ordered a set of NPR pistons and rings...on Amazon of all places. Should be here later this week, which means machine shop NEXT Monday when I have a day off.

no, I don't require crank grinding, thankfully. The main and CR oil clearances are just on the high side of the standard range, but the crank is well within spec and didn't show any taper/out of round. I'm replacing the oil pump, and I think clearing out a lot of solid buildup in all the passages might help with oil circulation

how do you know this isn't going to be a highly stressed racing engine? j/k. I just want it to run for half a million more miles, or at least until I'm too old to be able to climb into it. (that'll be a sad day).

Anyone know what the difference is between the Toyota "valve grind gasket kit" and the "rebuild/overhaul kit"? I saw both on a dealer's site, but the descriptions and pictures are less than helpful.

valve grind kit: 04112-65018
rebuild kit: 04112-65018
Yotashop also has a rebuild kit- they say their gaskets are all KP (Japanese brand)
http://www.yotashop.com/toyota-3vze-...placement-kit/

millball

The overhaul set will include additional gaskets like oil pan, probably crank seals, and other bottom end stuff that would not ordinarily be changed when doing only head work.

Janos01

I concur with millball as well Lolal. If possible OEM parts or better are preferable. However, even a rebuild kit made in China does not mean that the kit is of bad quality. If this build is going to be used for fun or a daily driver and you do not push the truck too hard, you should be fine with your kit.

LolaL

Yes, I realize not ALL made-in-china goods are horrible, but...I guess my gut feeling is that I'm spending a lot of time trying to do a good job, and I don't want to put any parts and constantly be second-guessing if the engine's going to fall apart/leak sooner than later, even though the truck's not going to be racing or hauling too much.

Since it was my day off today and I didn't go to the machine shop as planned, I tried tinting the windows on the sentra. The tint was from Snaptint (ordered years ago). My brother tried his hand at it and after infinite frustration, gave up after the driver rear side window fail.

I decided to take the windows completely out instead. It made for easier application, but dang, it's still frustrating to try to do a good job. After what I thought was success,
1) I ended up scraping part of the tint when I put one of the windows back in
2) one of the tint edges creased up after I closed the window
3) I discovered that the scrape-y tool that came with the tint left marks all over the tint

Not having a very successful day


a picture of 1) not a toyota 2) not engine rebuild. A photo, nonetheless.

millball

Theres a dead dog on your deck.

Applying tint is an art. Many of the guys that do it for a living are not so good at it either.

Janos01

I understand completely and same here. I prefer to purchase car parts that are decent or most expensive, especially for our 3vz engines so we do not have to keep fixing or worrying about them.

superex87

Your doing a very good job with the rebuild. Asking questions is a big part of learning. As long as the bearing clearances measure good then its fine to use a "standard" bearing set. I kind of doubt all the bearings in those sets are exactly the same size, I'm sure there a slight variations in size.

RBX

Just a suggestion, don't use a gasket on the oil pan or crankshaft oil shield. Just use some liquid gasket. When I did mine I had a gasket but everything I read said to use some liquid gasket like permatex/RTV.

LolaL

haha, yeah, he was eating grass all morning and had a gurgly stomach the whole day.

I wish I had more windows and tint to practice on now. I learned I should have used distilled water to spray it down, should have found a clean place to do it, and had a better assortment of squeegees. Each window has a dog hair in it, not to mention all the pollen falling out of those trees.

aw, thanks for the encouragement And yeah, I got the 'standard' bearing set. I'll check the clearances again when I install. Crazy how the Toyota select-fit ones differ from size 1-2-3 by 0.0001". If I remember correctly, the Nissan ones were similar. Japanese precision?

Yeah, I used Permatex "The Right Stuff" on the sentra rebuild. My truck transmission pan (yeah, it's an automatic ) had a gasket on it when I got the truck. It had dried up and cracked and was leaking in spots. Nothing in wrenching gets me dirtier than applying FIPG/gasket maker/RTV. I don't know how I do it. The parts I put it on look great, but man...

When I took apart this engine, there was gasket/sealant all over the sides of seals. Guess they were trying to 'fix' oil leaks or something.

just ordered my gasket kit, bearings, and oil pump, headbolts, etc....
Thanks everyone for all the input. Keep it coming!
...on to Round 2!

RBX

I never heard of using distilled water for tint, I don't do tint but if I do I'll keep that in mind. Makes sense.

When using FIPG type stuff always clean the surface of any oil, I wipe stuff down with denatured alcohol. I didn't know this for years, and then I read it somewhere. It's all in the prep, like everything else.

gandude

Since you have the windows out of the vehicle,


When I did tinting (along time ago) a buddy told me to clean the bathtub out then fill it with water and install the tint under water. That was in the early 90's, and it still looks good!