mullinator79

86 4-runner, takes forever to start after it sits for a few hours. I just got it back from the mechanic and spent $1100 for new mass airflow sensor, injector cleaning and muffler. And it still has the hard start issue I took it in for in the first place. I've had the issue for a while and tried many tech things I could find on here, spending lots of money and still have the same f#$%ing problem. This may take a few but I'm going to try to list out everything I've done. At first I thought that the fuel pump went out so I took it out and tested it with a battery in some water it seemed to squirt fine but someone told me that doesn't mean that it produces adequate pressure and flow so I replaced it with a new fuel pump anyways. I replaced the fuel filter while I was at it too. Still had problem so I jumpered the fuel pump plug. I can hear the pump running. Still have problem. Thinking the engine is fuel starved on cold starts I figured it had to do with the cold start injector, so I replaced with a new one. No luck, so what the hell I throw more money at it and replace the coolant temp sensor. Wrong again, so the only thing left is the cold start injector time switch right? From everything I read on here thats it 9 times outa 10. Hard wired the b1t(H to a push button and wouldn't you believe it still nothing. It still takes cranking forever until it starts. Once it starts it runs like a tight swiss watch. I'm sentimentally attached as I'm 28 had it since I was 16 and my parents bought it brand new in 86. I'm willing to send whoever has the suggestion which leads to the solution a money order for a 12pack. Thanks in advance.

stupid_mud_gremlins

Have you run the codes? Take a look at http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
to see how to do it.

4Mogger

EFI relay? Kind of like a fuse. Mine went bad and I had intermittent hot start issues that were impossible to track down. Replaced the relay (28$ part IIRC) and problem solved.

iamsuperbleeder

This might be a dumb question, but you've tried the basics first I'm assuming, right? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter... Seeing you've spent over $1,100, I would only hope so. How about ignition coil? Checked all your vacuum lines as well? Fuel pressure regulator may be another cause too.

mullinator79

Yes, I have jumpered the codes, can't remember off the top of my head what the number is but I printed out a sheet and it corresponded with distributor which doesn't make sense cause when it runs it runs perfect. That wouldn't have anything to do with starting would it? Reading codes has helped me diagnose O2 and TPS problems in the past.

stupid_mud_gremlins

X2

Please tell us you have...

mullinator79

New plugs and wires. They replaced the air filter when they replaced the MAF sensor at the mechanic. I told the mechanic of the distributor code and he said that had nothing to do with it. Cap and rotor are old.

toy power

i had one experience with a problem like that, where the truck ran perfect but was hard to start.. it turns out that there is a check valve that hods fuel pressure in the lines, and it went bad in my truck. the starter had to be held until the pump built pressure. this was on a ford, and the check valve was on the pump. to verify this i attached a gauge to the fuel rail.

stupid_mud_gremlins

How much mileage on the cap and rotor?

dewitt88

Crack in the cap will cause the same issue (Hard to see) or even a build up on the button. I think my next step would be change them out. It may take that button several turn to make a good contact.

Just my $0.02

mullinator79

Don't know if this helps but if I spray starter fluid in the throttle body it will kick off immediately. So many suggestions.... Tested the main EFI relay. It clicks when I turn the key. I've had this problem for at least a year tested that a long time ago. New fuel pressure regulator too, forgot to mention that one. By the way $1100 was just the MAF, injector cleaning and muffler. With all the other parts I've mentioned I've spent at least $2000 at this point.

stupid_mud_gremlins

Do you use seafoam/injector cleaner? Dirty injectors maybe? Sounds like you've tried just about anything I would have done.

iamsuperbleeder

Ah, so it's narrowed down to fuel delivery anyway... I'd still replace that cap and rotor if they have some miles on them. It'll only set you back about $20 at a local parts store, and it's only 2 screws away.

mullinator79

So far there are 2 major suggestions. 1.] Cap and rotor 2.] fuel pressure bleeding off. My logic, which obviously hasn't worked to my favor at this point, is telling me that if it was the cap and rotor that it wouldn't start immediately with the starting fluid. If I jumpered the fuel pump and turned the key to the on position and listened to it run for a while, then cranked it and it still took forever, wouldn't that dispel fuel pressure bleed off or could a pocket of air have to push thru until fuel reaches the injector?

YotaJunky

By "kick off immediately", do you mean that it starts right away?

If so, and you have changed your CSI (cold start injector), it may be the cold start switch. In order to test the cold start system, unbolt the cold start injector from the air chamber and place it inside a glass jar, while still connected to the fuel rail. When you turn your ignition switch to "ON", you should get a spray of fuel coming out of the CSI. If not, then you will need to look at the cold start injector switch more closely, or may be the starter relay, or defective wiring in the EFI that isn't allowing the CSI to work properly.

I had this problem and it turned out to be my starter relay, which was inoperative. After replacing the starter relay, my CSI worked properly and now it starts every time.

myyota

I would bet thats its the thermo time switch thats bad, considering that you have replaced just about everything else.

iamsuperbleeder

that would as well me my next guess...

mullinator79

I mean starts immediately by kick off. New CSI, so then i suspected the switch was faulty so I wired a push button toggle from battery to green wire of CSI. When I depress the button, it doesn't seem to help. I guess I should take it out to see if I get spray. Actually, I have a faulty ignition switch so I wired that push button for the starter years ago. I just wired the CSI from that button as well. Just thinking, could the starter draw enough voltage away from the circuit if th CSI is on the same circuit that the CSI may not be left with enough voltage to operate? I thought I was being smart by using the starter push button as this would be the when the CSI operates (while cranking I mean).

iamsuperbleeder

according to YotaJunky, that CSI should be spraying BEFORE you start turning the motor over, but I'm not sure myself... I would imagine it wouldn't spray to too long as it would just flood the motor.

YotaJunky

Since you said that spraying starter fluid into the TB would start it immediately, I would remove the CSI while still connected to the fuel rail, and stick it into a glass jar. Check to see if you are getting a spray from the CSI, and if not, BINGO, you now know you have a problem with the CSI system.

Give it a go. You don't need to buy any more parts for this test.