AxleIke

Get to cutting and trimming, and you can fit whatever you want. Mine rides pretty well still: Stock height front suspension, using ball joint spacers and relaxed torsion bars, now with 35x12.50's

jrobertson4runnner

Man, that's a nice rig.

ckblum

AxleIke, your 4runner looks sick!!!! I love the look and stance. I am also partly worried about mileage cause I may end up commuting a half hour in my truck, it is a 22re and right now on 30's its not too bad. It isn't running the greatest yet but after I fix that it should be decent, get maybe 30mpg.

Would 33/10.50 (or 9.50) get decent mileage cause of the height? I would try to go to 4.56 or maybe 4.88 gears. What about 32's? They are wider but a bit shorter, I'm still real undecided on the size. I might even just go one size up to 31's which are the same width as the 33's.

AxleIke

I think you'd see better mileage with 33x10.5's than with the 32's, but not by much. I was getting pretty steady 22-25 city/hwy with my 33x9.5's in the summer, 18-20 in the winter. Haven't had many tanks on the new tires, but so far, they seem to be the same.

If you think about the height and width difference between the 33x10.5's and the 32x11.5's, I think it'll make sense.

Think about the tires as rectangles, IE, when you are looking at the front of the truck, and ignoring the third dimension. A 33x10.5 is a 33" tall, 10.5" wide rectagle, and 32x11.5 is a 32 inch tall, 11.5" wide rectangle.
Rolling weight isn't going to change much betwee

n those tires, so thats a wash.

So lets just think about the overall area of the tire that is presented to the wind, ie, the rectangle:

A 33x10.5 rectangle has an area of 346.5 in^2.

A 32x11.5 rectangle has an area of 368 in^2.

Obviously the wind resistance calcs are much more complicated that that, but as a basic idea, it works. More area means more wind resistance=less mileage. More rolling mass generally means less mileage too, but I'd bet that the overall masses of those tires is quite similar.

AxleIke

Thanks. Its got lots o clearance now that nothing hangs down below the frame

rattlewagon

I bought the downey 2inch lift springs for my 92 ex cab runnin 35s. I keep a fiberglass cap on it and the springs have settled back to almost stock height, however, they do flex ALOT and are very smooth going down the road.

buuuuttttt im pretty sure that downey went out of business.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...siness-188541/

good luck!

tj884Rdlx

AHA! Mr. Pizza Cutter goes up to 35x12.5!!! you turncoat!

lol just kidding. they look sweet.


hey Renegade:
in response to your original post. i think you're on track. i'm doing the same set up with my 88. i put in the 1.5 bj spacers from 4crawler.com. my t-bars are at stock. i just put in OME dakar leafs in the back. (i thought downey went out of bidness? am i confusing with another co.?)
the OME's are pretty stiff still. i put them in with new poly bushings and an Allpro 1.5+ shackle. i think this is my problem. right now the rear is a little too high. i would have to crank bars back up to level it.

i'm waiting for my OME shocks to come in from ARB. so right now the rear is stiff and bouncy. i am considering pulling the fourth leaf. OMEs are 4+2 overloads. (stock was 3+1)

HEY, HAS ANYONE HAD TO PULL A LEAF FROM THE DAKARS?

as far as gearing, right now i'm still with 4.10s (22re) and it's dog slow with the 33s. most peeps here say 4.88, but i think i'm going to go 5.29 when i do, so i have room to move up to 35s.

i am planning to shim the rear axle this weekend to level my rear pinion, since i have a humming vibe now. keep this in mind when you put in new leafs in the back.

t-bars up front, from what i've read get real stiff real fast, with just a couple MMs thicker. do a little searching on this, and find the brand that's just a tweak over stock. i think stock is 22 and there's a 23 out there; 25 or 26 is reported as overkill, unless you're moving up to new control arms and doing 80mph thru trails.

but give the stockers a chance before you buy new bars. you may find them sufficient.

but take it from Ike, gears and lockers will take you farther than any other mod you do. even with 31s.

oh, i did a 1" b.l. too. that a a little wheel well smashing up front to fit my 33s (less clearance in 88 than 95) plus the b.l. will give you a little more room for sliders. so you may want a little bit without going up 2". 4crawler.com sells them too.

dig through his site. buttloads of info there.

hey, here's some pics of what i'm talking about. this profile is just after putting the leafs and shackles in back. with 33x10.5s, you can see the front height with the spacers and relaxed t-bars.

the back is crazy. it's already come down since that picture, but i need to do something else. the second pic is the OMEs with the Allpro shackles.

have fun man! you may have liked jeeps, but toys are much more addictive!
Tj

AxleIke

Eh, not too much of a turn coat. I still advocate skinny tires over fat ones. I just couldn't take the ride on the narrow interco tires. I like BFG's.

And, since I like to beat on it, I'm having to rebuild the steering, and modify a lot to fit these tires. Its not particularly sensical... LOL

tj884Rdlx

hijack on...

hey Ike, i just found and read your morph thread today, so i'm caught up to speed on your tire boost. you've definitely brought your rig to another level. and i think i read you said it's no longer a DD? so i can dig the increase in meat size/weight. its a different animal all together now. and it all looks good!


ok, hijack off

Tech Tim

Very nice ride height. I have a drop bracket kit with 33s and am in the process of doing the Blazeland low buck long travel kit and going to 35s.

Just curious, would you be kind enough to measure the height from the bottom edge of the wheel straight up to the bottom edge of the fender?

tc

Bad idea. That's a lot more stress on components that aren't designed to take it. At the minimum, you're going to need to seriously beef up the steering.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

looks like you might want to try going back to stock shackle. i run stock shackles and my dakars don't make my truck sit like that - it did before i put the bj spacers in. maybe give just a little tweak to the tbars and it won't make it looks so raked. also might try some sandbags in the back to help break in the springs?

Tech Tim

Huh? You think a long travel kit is going to stress components out?

AxleIke

No problem.

Looks to be right at 29.75 give or take an 1/8 or so, (uncertainty due to paralax)

AxleIke

Yeah, though I DD it in the snow. And, I've been driving it more just because its fun. But its no longer my only mode of transportation.

Thanks for the kind works!

tc

I know long travel increases the leverage on the frame.

I know bracket lifts increase the leverage on the frame.

I think either BY ITSELF is not too much of a problem.

I think both TOGETHER is asking for trouble.

Tech Tim

Sorry to confuse you, didn't say I was doing both. I said I have a drop bracket kit with 33s and am in the process of doing the Blazeland low buck long travel kit and going to 35s.

Drop bracket kit coming out Blazeland kit going in.

That said, I don't see any issues with doing both if done with extra gusseting and support; I just don't want 7"s of lift.

tc

Ah, gotcha.

Tech Tim

The Blazeland Low Buck Long Arm kit is installed and even got a little dirty today!

What an impressive difference to the IFS, way better performance than the drop bracket kit it replaced. The added width makes it feel like a slot car and it doesn't have the sway bar on.

Don't have the 35s on yet, lots of trimming to do first.

ckblum

Your truck looks great with those 33's. I think if you do go 35's you should definitely consider some front fiberglass to cover the track and give more fender clearance.