92 TOY

crossmember off...it's a kinda PITA job because they are very long bolts and things want to move around while you are loosening it.......'ought to be fun to put back together too.



lots of support

92 TOY

At this point you have to be very careful.

you can drive the DIFF right up into the pan.

92 TOY

FSM says take the swaybar off.

FSM does not know that road salt will win every time versus me and PB Blaster



Trying (thats the operative word trying)..to hold things steady....NO DICE



THIS is going to have to get cut

92 TOY

1 more

92 TOY

BACK TO TODAY AGAIN>>>>>>>>>>>>

so that's where I'm at. Just regrouping since the weather is getting better......


FEEL FREE TO POST UP, BUT PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, KEEP IT PERTINENT. nothing worse than a thread that wanders aimlessly (like my other one).

xxxtreme22r

I got mine out, but without undoing the sway bar, or the cross-member, did have to take out the steering stabilizer though and remove the bolts for the front diff and removed the front driveshaft.. once I got all the bolts out of the oil pan I stuck my hand in the pan to undo the 3 bolts that hold the oil pickup tube on, and slid the pan out with the tube and 3 bolts for it inside the pan. But this is a 1987 pickup. I had to remove it with the motor in twice doing it that way. Sorry no pics though.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

i also had to remove the steering crossover bar. i just undid one end of the stabilizer and unbolted my idler arm so it could swing out of the way. i don't have my swaybar installed so it wasn't in the way either. i did have to remove my IFS brace and chose to take out the front crossmember this time (i've taken the diff out before when i swapped to 4.88s and it's a hassle to get it back in with the crossmember installed). i was able to maneuver the pan in a way to clear the oil pickup tube without unbolting it like xxxtreme22r says he did. no pics either, sounds like you've done your research and have got things covered. it's pretty straightforward. have fun scraping the old FIPG off

92 TOY

BUMP..... for the night crowd

92 TOY

a little birdie to me to look here for info about dropping the diff under ZUK's mod....

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/

kiyobrown

http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

and the birdie just narrowed it down for you.

I just took the front bolt out instead of dropping the crossmember, it gave me something quick to pin the diff back in for the reinstall.

weaselman

from the looks of the pictures, i am a little to late......

but in my 86 4runner.. alls i have to do is remove the motor mount bolts. then jack up the motor until its hits the body. then remove all oil pan bolts. break oil pan loose. yous ratchet wrewnch and remove oil pickup tube bolts.... then remove as an assembly. and there ya. out in abt 20min. seriously...lol.

92 TOY

Below is copied from the thread KIYO posted up...thanks man.

Unfortunately the pics didn't paste, but it's referring to the 2 mounts for the front diff.

what I don't get is it says one has a free-spinning nut on top and other does not....TRUE? only one way to find out I guess.

Here's the 2nd one......Use a 19mm or 3/4" shorty wrench to catch the free spinning nut on the topside. Don't remove it yet and leave a couple threads to hold it in. Also, to the left of my finger....remove those six 17mm nuts. The bolts don't turn as they are pressed in but a wrench can be used on them to prevent the CV joint from freely rotating. Again the nuts are really tight.....at least mine were. The joint will then crack apart but won't fully separate yet.

Last big rubber mount...19mm....same thing, loosen it but don't remove quite yet. The nut on the top-side is welded so no wrench needed there. On tight aren't they?

92 TOY

I'm guessing that if I remove those mounts the whole shebang should be able to be lowered as one......I'm not looking to unbolt every bolt on this damn thing.

92 TOY

here's the crap I am afraid of crushing if jacking up the engine....

Hadmatt54

I'm late as well, I did the same as Weaselman on my 89 4 Runner a few years back.

92 TOY

Ok so here we are.....


took the 2 mounts off......yes, I had to use the breaker bar to loosen them and the put same breaker bar on the nuts on top of the mounts to hold them still and the took the 2 mounts off.

the diff came down, alot, with an uncomfortable twist to it as it was coming down, but all is good.

was able to access the rest of the oil pan bolts now and get them off and the the pan broke free with just a little push........HOWEVER...it was hung-up as promised by the oil tube....4 bolts and alot of contorting of my body and i was able to get them off and actually remove the tube........the PAN . however is pinned in there , as promised...can actually turn the pan almost completely around by not enough movement to get the pan out.

92 TOY

if anyone knows how to do steps 6 and 7 of ALLCAMMEDUP's write-up, give me a shout.....I'm done.

took 4 cotter pins out, 4 nuts off, can't get anything to budge.

weaselman

i can do it by just jacking the motor up until it hits the body. you wont damage anything by doing this. i have done it numerous times and never even touched the diff... it takes a few wiggles and shakes. but she comes right out..

xxxtreme22r

By the looks of it you have a manual trans right? So do I and there is no problems lifting up the motor and hitting the trans case agaist the body, buut he has an auto. There are cooler lines ??? and such between the auto trans housing and the body that will get crushed if he lifts the motor like us manual tras guys do. He posted up a pic what those lines look like.

92 TOY

So no progress, but a plan.

I will unbolt the front driveshaft as the FSM had said to do. I need so little more room that it's ridiculous. Looks like everything is resting on the swaybar. so hopefully if I unbolt the driveshaft I will gain the extra wiggle room I need.



Just showing how it's sitting when I unbolted the mounts....came down with a twist, that I don't like very much.