HELP MY 87_4×4 sr5 pickup. Won't start
#22
Registered User
Bingo! Other than that and carefully prying the cover off with something like a stiff putty knife working all around to several different areas, there's not much to pulling a cover out with the head still on. Just go over the timing steps with a good online build thread to make sure you're good to go. Then you should be able to fire that beast up!
#23
Ok i don't have that bolt in ?becuse on the old one it wasn't there any thing on a size. Of bolt to get to put one i already have valve cover off .I put new gaskets and seals all around the engine and it has been a long and challenging task . becuse i live in a apartment complex that doesn't allow working on vehicles in parking lot. So packing and unpacking everything from tools to parts in and out of my place im just a bit tierd .and need more opinions so i came here.and its working out nice but i need to sit down with my book on my truck that i have carried around to and from school reading in my spare time i find a lot in there about carb 22r and little about efi 22re
#25
Registered User
Ok i don't have that bolt in ?becuse on the old one it wasn't there any thing on a size. Of bolt to get to put one i already have valve cover off .I put new gaskets and seals all around the engine and it has been a long and challenging task . becuse i live in a apartment complex that doesn't allow working on vehicles in parking lot. So packing and unpacking everything from tools to parts in and out of my place im just a bit tierd .and need more opinions so i came here.and its working out nice but i need to sit down with my book on my truck that i have carried around to and from school reading in my spare time i find a lot in there about carb 22r and little about efi 22re
As for that bolt, you should definitely get one, it's an M8x1.25, 55mm thread length. The original bolt had a 12mm head but if you buy one in a store, it'll be 13mm, no biggie just something to know.
#26
Oh, I'm talking about the one that goes in from the top front of the head into the little oil pool for the cam gear. You can see the hole for it in the pic you just posted cause you don't have the cam in. It's usually kinda hidden and easy to forget about, but it'll crack the top of your cover when you pull it.
And i also have school at 430 to 1030 ..please stay posted or ✔ back in for further questions and feed back on progress
#27
Registered User
Sure thing. I'm not a pro mechanic by any stretch, but I just rebuilt mine last year so it's all still fresh in my head. I'll do my best to keep you pointed in the right direction if anything comes up.
#28
thank you and im guna hit the book a lot more in the rebuild section i have the gaskets for oil pump im sure it came in the set so ill be asking a few questions about that in a day or so thanks agin really appreciate it..
#29
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But just the other day I was in my local Ace Hdwe, where I CAN buy metric hardware onesy-twosey from little drawers. Much to my delight they now have a drawer of J.I.S. hardware!
So just keep your eyes open for J.I.S. It only matters on 8, 10, 12 and 14mm bolts/nuts (not 6mm, with a 10mm head). https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...Head-Size.aspx
#31
Registered User
Thanks scope, good to know! I've got an eBay supplier for my J.I.S. hardware, but I'll check Ace the next time I'm there. I don't really like having any "standard" metric bolts on my truck.
#33
Registered User
J.I.S. = Japanese industrial standard.
"standard" metric hardware has larger bolt heads than J.I.S. and sometimes doesn't fit in Toyota applications as a result.
"standard" metric hardware has larger bolt heads than J.I.S. and sometimes doesn't fit in Toyota applications as a result.
#35
Tell me if this sounds right 1st i pulled off my power steering pump ,vbelts,head cover ,intake ,then i pulled the timeing chain off w/th gears and sprocket , found that shiny link set engin to 0°btdc and distributor at 12o clock that sets its self when inserted my #1  rocker are able to wiggle and to make sure i pulled #1 plug and made sure it was just before full stroke and all marks and chain are were they should be now i need to hook my intake and coolant +fuel supply back up ...... Should i stick to this and try it or am i wrong and dont do it
#37
Registered User
That doesn't look quite right to me. When a 22re is at 0° btdc, that timing mark on the cam pulley should point just counter clockwise of 12 o'clock. Yours is definitely clockwise of 12 enough that it looks to be off at least whole tooth. With your engine exactly as it is right now, take a pic of that plate with timing marks I was talking about earlier. Here's a drawing of it. Yours will probably have a "12" before the 8.
See that little notch on the pulley itself? It's there on yours too and will line up with the zero if you're really at 0° btdc. Also, pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor's pointing to about 10:30.
See that little notch on the pulley itself? It's there on yours too and will line up with the zero if you're really at 0° btdc. Also, pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor's pointing to about 10:30.
#40
That doesn't look quite right to me. When a 22re is at 0° btdc, that timing mark on the cam pulley should point just counter clockwise of 12 o'clock. Yours is definitely clockwise of 12 enough that it looks to be off at least whole tooth. With your engine exactly as it is right now, take a pic of that plate with timing marks I was talking about earlier. Here's a drawing of it. Yours will probably have a "12" before the 8.
See that little notch on the pulley itself? It's there on yours too and will line up with the zero if you're really at 0° btdc. Also, pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor's pointing to about 10:30.
See that little notch on the pulley itself? It's there on yours too and will line up with the zero if you're really at 0° btdc. Also, pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor's pointing to about 10:30.