Toyo4x4

I'd replace the PCV valve AND hose, too. If its clogged up it will cause oil to blow-by the rings. Both pieces are cheap.

nIgHTmaRE4RuNNeR

so you are saying? just to change the pcv valve and hose? and that could just be my problem.. im not sure how would bad rings would make your performance of the truck to drive.. seems fine i can take it to 80mph steady rpms, just that my muffler is shot.. but if its just the pcv and hose would be nice!!!

nIgHTmaRE4RuNNeR

and the last i drove it , drove it from la to sd straight 2hrs 65-80mph was steady no over heating, rpm still steady

regularguy412

Toyo4x4 is on the right track. An easy way to check the efficiency of your PVC valve / system is to take the oil fill cap off of the valve cover while the engine is idling. You should note a slight change in idle and you should be able to put your hand over the opening and feel a slight vacuum. If it's blowing OUT through that opening, then you likely have a ring problem. There's too much blow-by for the PCV to cope with. This situation can also occur if the PVC is clogged and not doing its job at all. The crankcase is supposed to be under negative pressure ( if the PVC is doing its job correctly).

I can see the PVC on my 3.0, but getting to it is another thing. Mebbe some on here can submit the easiest route to replacement, should it happen that you need it.

Mike in AR

Worley

All good ideas. Have you done a leak down test on the rings? Easy to do and it will tell you if you are having problems with the rings. The PCV valve is not easy to get to you have to take the intake plenum off to get at it not really hard but it can be a pain in the butt. That would be one of the first things to do I think is to check the PCV valve if it is not working correctly it will cause oil consumption. But the thing has 190K on it so I would probably look at putting a long block in it which can cost anywhere from 1.3K to 1.7K plus labor unless you do it yourself. But Good luck with it and let us know what the cause was.