ewong

on mine the hard line long the frame AND the pump bracket were toast...

Squiddy

Ok, so here goes:
1) Parts. Note extension high pressure hose on right, didn't put on cuz couldn't get off at upstream end:
2) Rust on brackets = flog:
3)IDeal working conditions? and a reaaaaally good friend:
4)Keep it up with floor jack and platform:
5) You need to remove forward drive shaft joint shield to drop front of tank. Hmmm maybe I should refinish?:
6) Peeling away wheel well liner helps:
7) I think this is best way to get tank hoses free though:

8) Old wreck of bracket. Leaked from BOTH outllets, and hi-pressure one already broken off here:
9) Reassembled with new bracket, old pump. If you don't pull off stariner (which was fine) you don't need the teeny clip thingy. Be careful that pump is firmly in place though:
10) New one in place...

TNRabbit

Great pics!

liferunner2

Sweet pics, I'm doing this right now...well today anyhow. Thanks

Squiddy

OK, so got it about 90% done, and more importantly running. Yahoo! Just before the snow and rain restarted.

So, needed to get hard lines for before and after fuel filter, hoses for low pressure links between low pressure return hard lines (the hoses were a rip off- about $25 each, and you could just use decent fuel line hose), and the rubber covered hard line to go between the fuel pump bracket and the high pressure line running forward (this twisty bastard - in the middle of the picture below - cost $60!)

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0635.jpg

Much easier this go-round as we knew what we were doing, plus the gas was already out of the tank

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0649.jpg

This is the fuel sensor fitting. Should have replaced, but as of now have spend about $300-400 on parts already

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0648.jpg

Looking down on bracket already placed. Sorry about blur. *****NOTE***** when you tighten line onto bracket (on left), the tube can very easily start to bend rotationally, so be damn careful

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0640.jpg

Also note it is very easy for the electrical connection to not seat right the first time...listen for subtle click, or this will happen:

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0646.jpg

New low pressure lines in:

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0638.jpg

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0645.jpg

But note right hand one won't hook up till tank is part way back up (ditto for electrical):

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0637.jpg

Fuel filter is a bugger, because of bolt location for shield, lots of line rust, and the idiot that designed this put the front of it above the cross-member. You need 14, 15, 19 mm wrenches here:

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0636.jpg

We ended up putting in the new rear hard line and new shield, but were unable to get the fuel filter off without either breaking the forward line, or dropping the crossmember (which we couldn't do because of time constraints):

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0642.jpg

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/i...t=IMG_0643.jpg

But it works! So either I will visit the stealership mechanic, or do the crossmember drop later (I have been looking for an excuse for a BudBuilt Crossmember...)

Squiddy

Part 2
OK, so got it about 90% done, and more importantly running. Yahoo! Just before the snow and rain restarted.

So, needed to get hard lines for before and after fuel filter, hoses for low pressure links between low pressure return hard lines (the hoses were a rip off- about $25 each, and you could just use decent fuel line hose), and the rubber covered hard line to go between the fuel pump bracket and the high pressure line running forward (this twisty bastard - in the middle of the picture below - cost $60!)



Much easier this go-round as we knew what we were doing, plus the gas was already out of the tank



This is the fuel sensor fitting. Should have replaced, but as of now have spend about $300-400 on parts already



Looking down on bracket already placed. Sorry about blur. *****NOTE***** when you tighten line onto bracket (on left), the tube can very easily start to bend rotationally, so be damn careful



Also note it is very easy for the electrical connection to not seat right the first time...listen for subtle click, or this will happen:



New low pressure lines in:





But note right hand one won't hook up till tank is part way back up (ditto for electrical):



Fuel filter is a bugger, because of bolt location for shield, lots of line rust, and the idiot that designed this put the front of it above the cross-member. You need 14, 15, 19 mm wrenches here:



We ended up putting in the new rear hard line and new shield, but were unable to get the fuel filter off without either breaking the forward line, or dropping the crossmember (which we couldn't do because of time constraints):





But it works! So either I will visit the stealership mechanic, or do the crossmember drop later (I have been looking for an excuse for a BudBuilt Crossmember...)

Squiddy

Editing trouble....

22re-Michigan

My shop told me that I need to replace the fuel sending unit. Is that what you have done here? If so, how much did you pay for the unit. They quoted me $400 for the part from the 'stealership'. I have a 1989 22re 4-cylinder pickup.

Any info would be great.

WOuld you be willing to email me so that I can ask a couple of questions?

ignitethewill@hotmail.com

Thanks!

Matt

Squiddy

Matt - sorry, haven't checked the thread in a bit. The sending unit should be what I erroneosly listed as "sensor" in the 3rd pic from top here --- sends signal to guage. 400 bucs is a lot, and can likely get it online from far less. It's conceivable that they meant the fuel pump bracket, but doubt it. If you have a carb and not fuel injection, the pump is up at the engine. Just PM me here with any questions.

Squiddy

I've gotten a bunch of PMs with similar questions regarding parts, etc, so I thought I would post a open reply:
Several options for the parts --
1) I ended up doing it all through my local Toyota dealership. While a bit more expensive, they knew exactly what they were doing, and I ended up doing three separate orders as things evolved. I'd recommend this route. Basically, call them with VIN number in hand (parts vary by model, etc). If you need to do it, plan on replacing basically everything ... probably worth doing the sender at the same time.
2) On line through a cheaper, but still Toyota, source. I use Mossy Toyota in San Diego -- takes a bit longer, but dirt cheap.
3) On line through wholesale vender like Drivewire or Autopartswarehouse. However they won't have all the parts, so trickier. Drivewire generally does a great job, APW seems a bit hit or miss.

I will look up the parts tonight and list them in a bit.

Squiddy

Oy vey. Whoever suggested either golf tees or parafilm to plug the (unpressurized) fuel lines should be beaten with a pipe. Neither worked - the former leaked like crazy, the latter just gets dissolved by the gas. On to plan b, whatever that is...

BoostinChick

I actually have to replace the hard lines for the front and rear of the fuel filter. Would you happen to have the part #'s still for those pieces? Also how difficult was it to replace those lines specifically? Am I going to have to go through everything that you have when I know these hard lines are shot?

Squiddy

In the end I had the dealer do the hard line between the front of the filter and the motor, as I was out of patience and time.