Fuseable links - School me
03-11-2007, 11:26 AM
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Fuseable links - School me
Hoping some of you Toyota guru's can help me out. I recently bought an 87 4Runner with a SAS done already, for short money. Problem was, it didn't run. So after puttering around and looking things over, I came to discover that this truck was originally a carbed version and has a FI motor swapped in. Upon further investigation (and the help of my new handy Toyota FSM and wiring diagrams) I find that the truck is missing the main fuseable link from the positive battery cable to the RE2 relay box on the right fender.
Here comes the question part.
Can I a large in-line fuse (say 60 amps) in place of a factory fuseable link, or do I need it to be a slow melting like OEM? It was suggested that I use a large fuse like for a car stereo system and a decent gage wire. LAst thing I want to do is set my truck on fire. So is this an acceptable method? My local toyota dealer couldn't seem to find a fuseable link in their system for that old a truck.
Show me the way Oh great purveyors of Toyota knowledge....
Here comes the question part.
Can I a large in-line fuse (say 60 amps) in place of a factory fuseable link, or do I need it to be a slow melting like OEM? It was suggested that I use a large fuse like for a car stereo system and a decent gage wire. LAst thing I want to do is set my truck on fire. So is this an acceptable method? My local toyota dealer couldn't seem to find a fuseable link in their system for that old a truck.
Show me the way Oh great purveyors of Toyota knowledge....
03-11-2007, 10:34 PM
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whats strange about that? they offered the caebed version till like 88 or something like that, as far as i know
as to your question i would try to get a OEM one, but i dont know what problems, if any would come from using a fuse
as to your question i would try to get a OEM one, but i dont know what problems, if any would come from using a fuse
Last edited by notanymore; 03-11-2007 at 10:48 PM.
03-12-2007, 06:32 AM
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[QUOTE=DeathCougar;50464466]87 Carbed? I dont think so....
I have an 1987 that was carbed also. Everything looked factory to me before I as I was taking it apart. If I still have the title, I will post the VIN
I have an 1987 that was carbed also. Everything looked factory to me before I as I was taking it apart. If I still have the title, I will post the VIN
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03-13-2007, 06:53 AM
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I'm no expert, but it seems to me a fuseable link is just a cheap way for the manufacturer to put a fuse very close to the battery. I think you can get the same protection with an inline fuse of the appropriate size and if it blows its a lot easier to change than a fuseable link.
I've found the Monster Power inline fuse holder for high-end stereo installs to be the most reasonably priced of the 60-100 amp sized inline fuses.
I've found the Monster Power inline fuse holder for high-end stereo installs to be the most reasonably priced of the 60-100 amp sized inline fuses.
03-13-2007, 06:58 AM
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You can now purchase 50-100-150-200 amp circuit breakers for such use; I bought a couple off ePrey...they are much easier to reset than having to find a fuse.
http://search.ebay.com/circuit-break...ageNameZRC0022
http://search.ebay.com/circuit-break...ageNameZRC0022
Last edited by TNRabbit; 03-13-2007 at 07:00 AM.
03-13-2007, 07:24 AM
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For my lights with 100w non-HID bulbs I have a 10ga wire with a 25A fuse in the link...one powering 2 lights, the other powering 1. Just wondering since this is the first wiring job I've ever done.
03-13-2007, 08:21 AM
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That's a very similar set-up to what I purchased, but have yet to install, Mt Goat.
I understand the bidggest difference between a fusible link and a regular fuse is that the fusible link is a slow melt off, where the fuse just pops at a short or an amperage spike. At least that's my understanding, but again, I'm no expert either.
I was hoping for some of the MT's to chime in with their thoughts (No offense implied if anyone that HAS responded is a Master Tech.)
I understand the bidggest difference between a fusible link and a regular fuse is that the fusible link is a slow melt off, where the fuse just pops at a short or an amperage spike. At least that's my understanding, but again, I'm no expert either.
I was hoping for some of the MT's to chime in with their thoughts (No offense implied if anyone that HAS responded is a Master Tech.)
03-13-2007, 10:30 AM
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ok here the easyest way to fix this man im just scared that noone said this yet......go to a jusk yard and steal one thats it that easy come on now!!
(stealling is illeagle i dont say its ok if you get cought i didnt say it was ok nor am i heald liable for any thing that might come your way if you do this is just an idea nothing more!!)
(stealling is illeagle i dont say its ok if you get cought i didnt say it was ok nor am i heald liable for any thing that might come your way if you do this is just an idea nothing more!!)
03-13-2007, 01:02 PM
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ok here the easyest way to fix this man im just scared that noone said this yet......go to a jusk yard and steal one thats it that easy come on now!!
(stealling is illeagle i dont say its ok if you get cought i didnt say it was ok nor am i heald liable for any thing that might come your way if you do this is just an idea nothing more!!)
(stealling is illeagle i dont say its ok if you get cought i didnt say it was ok nor am i heald liable for any thing that might come your way if you do this is just an idea nothing more!!)
stolen or not, junkyard is still a great place to score random-ass parts like that...
