desconhecido

Yes, depending on how fast the motor was running, it can make a big difference. If you set the timing to spec while it is running too fast, you're timing can turn out to be seriously retarded.

Well, that's how it would be with a traditional distributor and quite honestly, I don't know what the ECU would do if it thinks the engine is at idle (signal from TPS, right?) but engine speed is too high for idle. I think the solution is to make sure that the ECU is getting the idle signal and that engine speed is proper and then set the timing as appropriate.

JSneyers

I am in NJ. I went through the high rise inspection.100k on 22RE. I passed the high rise but failed emissions ,BAD. Readings should be,
HC=100
CO=0.50

I had HC=256 and CO=2.86, Crazy, I changed the O2 sensor. Readings are now HC=139 and CO=0,89. I still failed. I realized I still had the stock Catalytic on. So after changing that, HC=89 and CO=0.34.

ironroad9c1

a cat is basically a last resort to clean up emissions, a properly tunes and running engine would pass with out a converter, its just there to act as a crutch because alot of people don't maintain there . your engine has a problem, how did you break it in after the rebuild?

fdeeznutz

I'm still in the process of breaking it in. No redline runs and no long extended same rpm runs. Pretty much just taking it easy on it. I think I may have an injector issue or an afm problem. My afm seal had be broken prior to me owning the truck so I have no idea what the po may have done to it. Going to be timing it tomorrow and checking the plugs to see if I may have a bad/leaking injector. The truck is definitely running rich to the point it makes your eyes water if you stand next to it running. I'll post back tomorrow if I come up with anything. Thanks guys

stagger_lee

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Put some right foot in it and seat those rings properly.

fdeeznutz

Oh I have been, just no redline runs. Haven't lost any visible oil in almost 500 miles so I think they are seating right.

Spark plug pictures.
They look good to me

fdeeznutz

I did some testing today and found some interesting things.

First was the TPS, I tested and re-set it to factory settings. The timing was dead on at 5 deg.
The AFM is were I'm running into problems.
The first tests according to http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
1. E2 - VS 20 - 400 .............good
2. E2 - VC 100 - 300 .............good
3. E2 - VB 200 - 400 .............good
4. E2 - THA 10K - 20K...............good
5. E1 - FC Infinite/open n/a....Not at infinite reading got 1.2-1.3 ohm reading
Dynamic
1. E1- FC Infinite/OpenZero/Short--Fully Closed Any opening..... obviously not correct. Getting readings ranging from 1.2-2.9 ohm
2. E2 - VS 20 - 400 fully closed 150..............good
20 -1000 fully closed to fully open 150 ohm-.655k ohm with lots of variations and infinite/open readings. According to the 4crawler site:
"What you want to watch for are places where the resistance drops below 20 or above 1000 ohms (for example if it goes to infinite/open circuit) as that would indicate a problem."

So I assume there is a problem with my AFM? Am I reading all of this correctly?
This could be messing with the rich/lean mixture, correct?

Look at this thing anyway. Looks like lots of things happened to it in the past.

socalslider

I don't know if this is it, but on some cars when the computer is reset, it needs to relearn, on some cars they say not to smog for so many miles, just a thought.

fdeeznutz

I've been thinking about the AFM and I think my meter may have been giving me bad readings. I would think I would be having strange issues like stalling or it running poorly. I don't know, this truck is giving me a headache.

Jollyradar

I thought most states were doing away with e-checks? Ohio discontinued their e-check, only had it in like 5 or 6 counties anyway.

calisurferdude2000

I resent that last remark. I work for the emissions testing place here in Aurora (Denver Metro Area). We aren't allowed to tell customers what to fix, because if we do and it doesn't fix the problem, they can come back and say we told them what to fix and that it didn't work so it's our fault.

As for high Hydrocarbons (HC) all of your fuel isn't burning/ or it's not burning enough. That's usually a fuel issue. As for the high Carbon Monoxide (CO), you're running too rich. And yes...the cat. converter usually affects NOx.

nieuwendyk-25

You'll notice I said, most! Sorry...

85TurboRunner

That AFM has been opened up before. Probably adjusted wrong by some PO.

abecedarian

The odd thing is you're failing HC at idle yet passing at speed. Passing at speed suggests the O2 sensor and ECU are working fine. The O2 sensor is ignored at idle- closed loop mode occurs off idle. However, if the TPS isn't adjusted properly, the ECU will look to the O2 for feedback and if the O2 is cold, the idle mix will be rich.

fdeeznutz

I couldn't get the tps completely in spec so I suspect that it may be bad. It does drop the idle down when shorting the diagnostic port though. I bought a new one from the dealership today(it was cheaper than checker/autozone off brand)

I'm taking it to a 22re specialist in the next day or so. I just don't have the diagnostic tools needed for this job and I checked everything I could think of. Time to turn it over to the professionals.

Thanks everyone for your input.

I'll post back when I find out what is going on.

fdeeznutz

It passed!

As I suspected, the AFM had been tinkered with by the PO probably trying to compensate for the giant vacuum leak. Just a few clicks to the lean side and it passed with flying colors.

desconhecido

Congrats on getting it to pass. How did you diagnose the AFM situation?

fdeeznutz

I took it to a 22re emissions specialist and they put a good stock(not opened up) AFM on it and it dropped the numbers to almost 0 across the board.

2 weeks of hunting and they were able to figure it out in 45 minutes. Oh well, I found a pretty nasty vacuum leak in the process that fixed my high idle problem. I now just need to suck it up and buy the idle air control valve (cough, cough....$197.00 at cost from the dealership)to fix my cold idle problem.