mac9968

I was seeing consistant stobing on 5 and 6. 1,2,3,4 didnt appear to strobe consistantly. My timing light is a inductive light, it picks up each time the plug it is inductively connected to fires. My timing light on each cylinder stoble very consistantly.

I believe I am looking at COR... wow what a journey, but my son now has a daily driver.

buckz6319

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buckz6319

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Dan.3

This is so obvious. Here is you problem. I not sure if yo have noticed and I dont think you have, but you have a 3.0 3vze motor. Not the 3.4. Just fyi. It ok though, alot of people tend to not realize this. Be happy that you found this out early before you spend thousands on headers, cams, afms, that dont amount to any hp increase.

TNRabbit

The timing needs to be set with TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port jumpered; did you have that done when you're checking the timing?

Also, what you said about the engine smoothing out when you push open the VAFM indicates to me you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

thook

He's just trying to get the motor to run properly,smoothly, with normal power for a 3.0......which the motor is capable of doing. So, it being a 3.0 is not inherently the problem.

TN.....post #12.....He's had it jumpered when timing it out. [Dwayne] Correct terminals, though? Good connection, though?


Dwayne......did you ohm out all of the ignition cables? You don't necessarily need them to be OEM Denso for the vehicle to run smoothly, so you know. They just need to have good continuity. OEM or NGK or equivalent will certainly perform better/longer. Copper core > carbon core.

thook

Oh.........have you tested the engine coolant temp sensor? That could cause a misfire, for sure.

buckz6319

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buckz6319

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yoterr

i would also check into the vafm and possibly a vacuum leak like tn said heres a link on "how to use timing light" lol just skip till you see them using it, its on a v8 but same difference the light should strobe not ....light.......light light....................light good luck

forgot the link lmao http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc

buckz6319

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buckz6319

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buckz6319

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thook

1) It can cause a misfire if the ECU's not getting correct voltage input on the temperature of the coolant. The ECU needs to know so it can adjust timing and fuel ratio accordingly. More if cold........less if warm. Hell.....your motor won't even run if the ECT sensor isn't plugged in. It will flat fall on it's face, if that tells you anything.

2) Not necessarily. I suppose I'd have to look at the diagnostic codes page to refresh my memory, but I really don't recall there even being a code for the coolant temp sensor. If it was going awry, it would probably throw one of the O2 sensor codes. Then again, it may not. I've been having an issue as of late with my wife's '92 and yet no codes whatsoever.

My dilemma......

It's been hesistating under heavy load intermittently and getting worse. So, I tested the IG coil and that was off.....replaced it. Replaced the fuel pump and filter........that helped A LOT!!, but didn't solve the problem. Then, tested the airflow meter.....a reman'd unit from Auto Zone. Tested bad on the measuring plate track, so traded it out under warranty. Pfffth...the replacement was bad right out of the box.....bent mounting stud with screwed up threads, so couldn't even mount it. BUT! I figured it had to have been dropped in the factory/somewhere, boxed up anyway, and made it's way to my hands. What a piece of garbage! The flapper didn't even operate smoothly. Sounded like an old, creeking door. So, I went ahead and tested that one....tested bad. Got my money back and now have to explore some options. (I realize I am digressing from your topic, but humor me....). So far, O'Reilly has an A1 Cardone for $180......same price as the AZ unit.....and probably same quality.....with a 1yr warranty (forget that crap). The other option is their Beck-Arnley unit for $375 with a lifetime. Sounds good, and I've heard good things about BA from two local foreign shops. Both are now out of business, but they used mainly that brand for aftermarket OEM replacements. My only other options are Toyota or used. With Toyota I can be rolling for the tune of $800+ unless my friend that works there in the parts dept. can give me a substantially better deal than that. Or, a used one that I'd just have to take my chances on. I don't know.......that may be a good way to go. Denso units are very good if you can find one with low enough mileage. No warranty, but I did find a used ECU in excellent condition for $50 a while back. I could live with that on the AFM.

So, I know it's the AFM, but it's not throwing any codes that would otherwise help. Just part of the diagnostic system design.

Dwayne, I'm not sure if I've mentioned this before, but if you can find a shop that has a smoke machine that would run it on your system for a good price I'd sure recommend it. It will find any leaks in a matter of minutes and save you any headache and doubt. When I'd rebuilt my 22re I simply couldn't get it to run correctly. I knew there was a leak somewhere....just couldn't find it. Ran the vehicle down to a local mechanic and within 5min's he found the leak right at the cold start injector gasket. He only wanted like $10 to do it. I'd spent days trying to figure out what was wrong.

buckz6319

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thook

1) There's pictures of the ECT sensor floating around here.....Mt. Goat would the be the poster....but, it's to the right of the heater hose behind the plenum. It should be grey.

2) Yeah, thanks........I'll check that out. I certainly wasn't going to pay $800, anyway.

3) I would strongly NOT recommend you attempt this procedure by yourself. It requires some real technical experience to do it correctly. In other words, I think you should get my help with that.

4) Well, you created a big vacuum leak by doing that.....which isn't normal...hehe.

5) Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak around there somewhere? Like maybe around the exhaust manifold or the "crossover" pipe where it connects to the left side?

buckz6319

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buckz6319

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buckz6319

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thook

Lol.....how is a hooka electrical??? And, I don't have a hooka, but I was hoping to partake of yours....dern.

Testing the coolant sensor is not a big deal. I know you definitely have the ability to do it so long as you have an ohm meter. The way I tested mine was to stick in a pot of water on the stove and watch the meter as the temperature rose. As far as what to be looking for, I don't quite remember at the moment. I'll have to get back with you on that.

As for the location and the thread w/pic I referred to, there was actually a recent post I saw today in that thread. I'll go and find it right quick........