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Clutch master cylinder bleeding problems ,

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Old 01-28-2014, 09:16 AM
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Clutch master cylinder bleeding problems ,

HI guys .I Have An 87 4 runner w/ 22re ,5speed .I had to replace the clutch Master cylinder today as it was leaking on the firewall . My problem is I just cant seem to get the air out of the system . We've been pumping and bleeding it at the slave cylinder for about 2 hours .whe n I release the bleeder screw it does let a little fluid out w/air ,but Its like the fluid isn't leaving the reservoir. its been full everytime Ive stopped to check it .what would cause this ? I could really use some help .

-Rob,
Old 01-28-2014, 10:37 AM
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Describe your bleed method in a little more detail, what has worked for me is as follows;
with bleeder shut pump clutch pedal then hold pedal down while you crack the bleeder, close bleeder before releasing pedal, top off res. And repeat many times, dont let the fluid level run too low or you will trap a bubble when you refill the res. Unless you have air leaking into the system, this method should work. Check to make sure your pedal is adjusted and is pushing the rod in on the mc, 1/2 turn out on the pedal linkage has a big effect.
Old 01-28-2014, 10:42 AM
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Clutch bleed instructions from the PBB Toyota Bible, just in case there is something here that helps do the trick for you:

Clutch Master by RocKrawler

Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:

1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:27 AM
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Thanks for the replies I just took the clutch master cylinder off , put it in a vise and tested it , its defective! It will quirt the first bit out then it stops (with reservoir full) . I compared it to my old one and it quirts continuously ,It just has a slow leaks at the plunger that attaches to the peddle . Off to the parts store I reckon .
Old 01-28-2014, 12:39 PM
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. . .

Last edited by CAdot; 07-10-2016 at 06:01 AM.
Old 01-28-2014, 01:15 PM
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Next time when you bleed it at the slave, put a hose over the bleeder( I'd recommend using a clear hose) and run it UP into the motor area then down into a bottle. Then crack the bleeder and pump it till you've run 3-4 reservoirs worth of fluid through(or till you stop getting bubbles). Then close the bleeder and test it. It should be almost totally bleed if not completely. And if you use teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder and a tight hose it will be totally bleed. Its way quicker then bleeding the other way and its a one person job

Last edited by Stetson_md; 01-28-2014 at 01:21 PM.
Old 01-29-2014, 10:19 AM
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@Stetson That's exactly what I did , unfortunately I gone through two other master cylinders, all wont pump the fluid through . I just finally gave up and put my old one back on . bled it , and it works for now( just has a slow leak) . Im just going to have to go to the dealership and buy an oem mc.
Old 01-29-2014, 10:57 AM
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Amazon has Aisin MC, which are the same as OEM for a much better price. Same quality too.
Old 01-29-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bipolarandproud
@Stetson That's exactly what I did , unfortunately I gone through two other master cylinders, all wont pump the fluid through . I just finally gave up and put my old one back on . bled it , and it works for now( just has a slow leak) . Im just going to have to go to the dealership and buy an oem mc.
Sorry to hear that man, I have that luck with auto zones alternators went through nine in one month. But that warranty can't be beat lol
Old 01-29-2014, 02:08 PM
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@snobdds,Thanks I'll keep that in mind .

@Stetson_md ,Yeah I've spent 2 days on it. We've been having freezing temperatures,so its been very frustrating. Ive just finished it .Thank god.
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