89needsatranny

you can buy the couplers from the store bought intakes seperate i believe. check your auto parts store.

DIRT CLOD

gas or air doesnt matter psi is psi. anyways.... all these fittings can be found at your local ace or true value..F%#& Home depot and all..and trust me on that Im a tradesman....the guys at ace ot True value should be able to find you waht you want just by discription or go to your nearest plumbing supply store. I Hav'nt done the Mod myself yet but am going to do it one way or another. I am going to try and use ABS myself(black plastic) I dont thnk the parts used will be around hot enough heat to make a differance. alot of the parts are ABS already. If you do use Steel pipe(exhaust etc..) you can get pipe washers that are bent (crescent shaped). I'm going to try with ABS because it's parts I already got (plumber) and their CHEAP. You can also find 3" soft copper pipe which can be bent pretty easily(make sure it's specifically "soft" copper or else it will kink too easy). Actualy now that I thought of tyhat I think I will try copper, it does dissipate heat rather fast. hmmmm...boy I sure do ramble alot dont I....well there are two options that are possibly feasable for isr mod. Don't forget that I still have'nt tried it myself. But will keep you posted.

oh yea, manual front lockouts or A.D.D. ? I was thinking of converting from my A.D.D to manual hubs. Advantages?...Disadvantages?....anyone?
hmmm...I could buy the manual hubs and keep em in the truck till one goes then change them on site .......lol...ramble ramble... sorry

DIRT CLOD

I asked a stupid question earlier ... I see that the 3/4 tube coming from the intake forward is connected to a seperated box....lol..good answer....!...

phildelfino

Or get it in the mail from Summit. Use this link.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

abecedarian

DIRT CLOD: I wouldn't use copper because of the reason you stated: it's a good thermal conductor. It radiates heat well, yes... but it also absorbs heat just as well so I can imagine the underhood heat being absorbed by the copper and transfered to the intake air charge which is part of the reason for the ISR mod.

As for your manual hubs with ADD... I'd do it if I had ADD, just so I can unlock the hubs when I don't anticipate needing 4wd, and extend the life of the front CV joints and boots.

DIRT CLOD

So true about the copper. I think I must have started drinkin early when I wrote that post...lol...I don't think I would actually use ABS just for it's shear ugliness...lol..I might do it to just get the sizing and bend to take to meineke and have em go ahead and bend me a pc of 3" steel.
I see Phildelfino got the spectre. but for 50 bucks I can go have stainless bent for the mod. The Spectre I think is plastic(thin plastic at that) I know at least the attatchment are. The collar that has the inserts and plugs for fastening your hoses I know is plastic. I was looking at the pieces yesterday thinking I could use my old Airaid from my 02 blazer 4.3. The bend is great on it but the length is short. I might go ahead and figure out some way to fabricate some boots to lengthen one or each end. I'ts stainless. I CANNOT find any 3" rubber hose at auto zone / checker(kragen, whatever). I'll be posting pics this weekend, we just got a bunch of rain and I've been trying to get stuck, I FINALLY dropped into a HUGE hole (what i thought was a shallow puddle) and had to actually put it in 4 low, first time! I was astounded at what I went thru in 2hi. I mean seriously, I would have had the suburban locked in 4whl 10 minutes prior to the puddle.
I am really lovin my Yota. pics this wknd.

DIRT CLOD

BTW, I hated that 02 Blazer. 30-9.5's auto with plenty of power from the 4.3. It didnt wheel bad, I dragged its poor little frame ALL OVER Chiba Falls trail here in Tucson. The guys in their jeeps shaken their heads at me the whole time. the next day I needed ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bushings, shocks and u-joints. After one expedition into the rocks.
Which reminds me.
In my Runner, I have a noise in the left front suspension or steering. Hard for me to tell where its coming from as I am sitting in the drivers seat when it happens.
When I have the wheel cut hard and hit a reasonable drop or lift while moving I get a quick hard CRUNK sounding noise. I was thinking control arm bushings but am wondering about the steering knuckle or sway bar. I can loose the sway bar and find or eliminate that part I guess, but thought I would ask as this is not the first 4 runner I have heard it happen in....lol...probably just needs shocks huh....lol..they are a bit soft.
Anyone?

krb90

Sounds like steering stops....every Toy I've seen has the same thing. Rubber eventually wears off and its metal on metal. It's fixable if you wish.

DIRT CLOD

Ok, I ended up getting an 18 in. pc. of 3" exhaust pipe, 7 dollars. I took solid wire and made the form I needed, wire I had, .50 cents. took it to the exhaust shop down the road to have it bent, a can of coke. 3" rubber coupling for ABS pipe, 8 dollars. a 3/8 MIP to 3/8 hose barb fitting, $2.65, 5/8 MIP to 5/8 hose barb fitting, $2.95.
the feeling of accomplishment....priceless.

I found that the 3" I.D. pipe is a bit too big as the openings from the mass a/f and intake are 2 3/4". also the ABS couplings are about 3 and 3/8 I.D which sucked. so I ended up getting a 3" flexible 90 deg. and cut the coupler ends off. perfect fit. the curve of the rubber was kinda a bear to get cut properly. (I was told an innertube from a off road mtrcycle would be perfect to strectch and clamp on for the couplers, will find out later). drilled my holes and tapped them using an iron pipe fitting of the same size.
(I actually screwed up there and put my larger fitting forward when it needed to be rearward...lol...no fret)
pulled out the I.S. unit and installed the pipe.

DIRT CLOD

I did notice a small differance in performance. Now this is coming from a mod that I really didnt expect to notice too much from, but! I found somewhat more mid range power at about 3rd and 4th gears (accelerated much better on downshift to third and into fourth while passing an old lady creeping at 40 mph on the hwy.
low end might seem a bit more torquey as well as it climbs in 3rd what I used to have to downshft to 2nd for. so all in all I think it is well worth whatever it may cost for the do it yourselfer. I basically ended up with what I would have gotten from K&N for a couple hundred bucks only no air filter.
Thanks TUBBYFATTY!

Tubbyfatty

Yeah man this mod is amazing!!! Have fun dude.

DIRT CLOD

I FOUND HOSE AS BIG AS 3 1/2 INCHES at my local Merles store. I imagine you could probably find it at NAPA as well. only problem is you have to buy it in a "stick" it's not sold by the foot, at least not there. it was 3' at $21. still not bad but thats enough for ummm....12 mods.....lol.... But I am sure I can find other uses for it eventually.

Cyberman

I'm late in this thread, but here was how I made mine:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post50994139

DIRT CLOD

I had the exhaust shop bend me a pc of 3" exhaust that I bought at checker for $7.


https://www.yotatech.com/picture.php...&pictureid=506

https://www.yotatech.com/picture.php...&pictureid=528

https://www.yotatech.com/picture.php...&pictureid=529

DIRT CLOD

how the heck do you post pics on replys in threads?

awareness

You need to do IMG codes to link to another site where they're stored (like PhotoBucket).

SMOD

I heard that a short ram or cold air intake can actually reduce horsepower and decrease mpg.

Has anyone else done a dyno test with the ISR? And gotten negative results?

TransAmBandit

Is there a way to use an open element on the stock air meter? I dont know if a MAF adaptor can be used on it.

93toyrunner

Never dyno but i talked to my mechanic friend and he was telling me if i use 3in exhaust pipe on my intake it is a hot air intake reducing horsepower and gas mileage because the there is so much heat from engine and manifolds that the intake tupe heats up then heats up the air, so the only way to get cold air is to wrap your 3in exhaust isr with heat wrap or use pvc because it does not heat up as fast. however when i had my isr mod on i felt it did have better throtle response but i took it off to make somthing differnt where i can still get at the dipsticks.

DIRT CLOD

Yeah, I thought about the heat factor. I have opened the hood a number of times after the mod to make sure everything is still clamped up good and I haven't seemed to be too hot. after running tilll engine is hot and letting it idle 10 more minutes I was still able to comfortably wrap my hand around the mod. So I figure if its not too hot too touch that it probably isnt getting hot enough to worry about the air warming up.
I also figure that the intake silencer being right at the radiator and lower reservoir it was probably getting hotter without the mod. all that air wrapped up whirling around in those boxes at the radiator...hmmm...but even if the air IS getting hotter the throttle response improvement is worth it. I think I'll continue investigating with other alternatives though. I just HATE plastic.