Gladiator89

I am in the process of rebuilding a 22R out of an 87 pickup to swap into my 82 that says on a badge under the hood that it had a 20R.
The guy I bought it from says the block in it is a 22R that had a headgasket failure but he no longer had all the pieces.
I had a friend who had an 87 with a 5 speed that also had a bad headgasket that he was selling cheap so instead of investing in the block with random parts I knew nothing about I bought his.
I had the block, crank, and cylinder head gone through by a machine shop.

When trying to find TDC I can see piston #1 as far up as it will go through the spark plug hole and the mark on the on the pulley is on 0, but when I check rocker arms piston 1 are loose like they should be but the rocker arms on piston 4 are loose as well when the guide im using says they should be snug against the cam.

I have tried rotating the crank to 0 both ways but both times the rocker arms on piston 4 are loose.

To me it doesnt look like at any one time both the rocker arms on piston 4 could be snug with the way the lobes are oriented. I have tried to just move the cam so both arms on 4 could be snug but they never are as far as I can tell.

I also noticed the guide says to let the engine warm up and maybe I have to do that first but then how do I set the rocker arms for first start?

I had a machine shop rebuild the head and they used two of them I had to make one.
The only thing I could think of is they may have used parts from the 82 20r on the 22r?
Or what did I do wrong?

JoeS

Maybe the timing chain is off a tooth or so?

aztoyman

Set your timing chain up like the manual says with all your marks lined up properly.

Turning the crank CLOCKWISE line up your timing mark on the damper to 0. If it's at TDC of the compression stroke for #1 cylinder, the rocker arms should be loose on #1. If not, turn the crank CLOCKWISE again one revolution to 0 again and the rocker arms will be loose this time. That should be TDC #1 compression stroke.

They are referencing #4 just to let you make sure you are not 180 degrees out of position. If #4 was loose and #1 wasn't you would have had to turn it one revolution like you just did.

YES # 4 should be getting loose and tight. If there are lobes on the cam it better.

To adjust valves the first time you can start with all valve adjustments backed off. Then adjust one valve at a time cold. Whatever rocker arm is on the base circle of the cam can be adjusted to spec. So .008 intake and .012 exhaust. Put a dab of white out or something to mark the ones you did.

With all valves adjusted you should be able to rotate the crank clockwise and it should work out like you were expecting. If you are on 0 on the pulley ,TDC #1 , the valves on #1 will be loose and snug on #4. If not, rotate clockwise one rotation to 0 on the pulley again and this time it should be correct.

If turning the crank you suddenly seem to be hitting a valve STOP because you are out of time. Recheck your timing marks on your chain.

I hope this helps.

Gladiator89

Took the cover off and the different links seem to be where they should be?

Tried turning the crank clockwise and both rocker arms on piston #4 get snug but NEVER at the same time.
If one is snug the other is ALWAYS loose.

Ive tried turning it around multiple times and checked both arms the entire time getting the same results each time.

In the last post I had mentioned how the lobes dont seem to be able to make the arms tight at the same time on piston #4


with the way they are oriented on the cam, making me think that there is something wrong with the cam.

aztoyman

If the rockers never get tight, either the rocker adjustment is too loose or the lobes are gone on the cam. Do the lobes on #4 look like the lobes on the other cylinders? I wouldn't think the valves would be stuck down or too short for the rockers to reach if it just came from the machine shop. I'm at a loss for an answer for you. Can you post pics? If you lived nearby I would help you out.

If you adjust the valves to .008 intake and .012 exhaust when the rockers are on the base circle of the cam, they should get tight when rotated on to the lobes as it lifts. The only time they should be the same is at TDC of that cylinder and loose. the clearance you just set. Otherwise they should not be loose. It's not like they have to be equally tight though. They will be on different positions on the lobes. I think when the manual tells you that, it's because it's a way to make sure you are at TDC of the compression stroke on #1 cylinder. If you were one rotation out at the timing pointer on the crank pulley, #4 would be loose instead of tight. Its just a way to verify you are correct on #1.

Both #1 and #4 cylinder are up and down at the same time. Except #1 will be on the compression stroke and #4 will be on the exhaust stroke. That's why they tell you to make sure #1 rockers are loose and #4 are tight. If not, you turn the crank one more revolution to the timing pointer again and it should be correct. The whole reason to do this is so you can put your distributor in correctly. You will know the crank and cam are in position for the distributor cap and rotor to be lined up to fire #1 cylinder. If your timing marks and chain are lined up properly, your cam and crank are timed properly. You wont hurt anything. No valves will hit pistons.

But if you put the distributor in position to fire #1 cylinder and you are 180 degrees out, you will actually be on #4 cylinder firing. It won't start or it will start and run like crap but nothing will be damaged mechanically. You will just have to pull the distributor and retime it. No big deal.

I hope this helps. If you already know this stuff, sorry. I don't know your level of experience. Good luck.

millball

.The intake and exhaust valve gear should Never be tight (both valves open) at the same time.
None of the cylinders ever should.
Maybe you are overthinking this.
If the cam and crank timing marks are correctly set and both rockers are loose on #1 (TDC on compression stroke)
All is correct, and the engine should run with the distributor correctly stabbed.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

That is very false. There is a period of valve overlap between the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke where both valves are slightly open.

To the OP: I'm guessing your valve clearance is super high thus making the valves on #4 loose when set to TDC compression on #1. My suggestion is to adjust each cylinder's valve clearances one at a time (set one cylinder to TDC compression, adjust valves, repeat for remaining cylinders) and then do the dummy check to see if your original issue has gone away.

millball

Technically correct, but irrelevant to what is going on here.
Half the valves can be set when #1 is on TDC compression stroke, and the other half when the crankshaft is advances one turn.

See this>>> Engine – 20R/22R/RE/RET Valve Adjustment - LC Engineering