Iceman4193

So it has been a while since I was looking into whether or not I wanted to buy a reman long block or try to have one from a salvage yard machined and done up myself.
So far I am looking at 1500 to 2100 bucks for a reman long block from what I can find.
Buying one from a yard would be about 350, then 700 for machine work, then probably 300 to 400 in parts bringing it very close to just buying a reman.

I looked around on ebay and found a few options if you guys want to tell me what you think, but I am looking for some opinions and suggestions if you all have any past experience with good companies.

I don't have a fortune to spend so trying to keep it at the most 2000 but would like to find a good one with a decent warranty for less if I can.

Let me know where you got yours and how much it ran you

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-85-95-2-4-Toyota-22R-22RE-Long-Block-Engine-/371446858086?hash=item567bf54166&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92-93-94-95-toyota-2-4-22re-engine-/291569088822?hash=item43e2df3936&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-22R-or-22RE-ENGINE-LONG-BLOCK-1985-95-REBULT-HEAD-NO-CORE-REQUIRED-/171914925136?hash=item2806ed9450&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-22RE-ENGINE-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-135HP-173FTLBS-/201407378775?hash=item2ee4d0b557&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-22RE-Engine-2-4-85-95-1985-1995-/171935269714?hash=item2808240352&vxp=mtr

nordicwargod

Don't buy an engine on ebay. Some individual parts are OK as they are generally new. Too many horror stories of terrible quality with engines and transmissions. Look at some video's on youtube about this. Cheapest parts, they cut corners, and when you figure in cost of shipping you aren't really ahead. If I had to do it over again my choice would to be a good local short block by a reputable and recommended place that stands behind their work and simply buy a Topline head from engnblder with valves and springs already assembled. They have very good deals and everything is new. Get one of their performance cam's too. They are very helpful if you have any problems or just dumb questions.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have bought two motors from A1 engine and know of two other people in my area that bought one from them. I was very happy with those motors.

I just rebuilt a motor and with a used block, machine work, parts and other odds and ends, it was about the same price as having a motor done with a warranty. I did have a used head that I had worked over and the camshaft bolt snapped on me. I torqued it to specs but still imagine it is my fault. I have done several top end rebuilds so it wasn't my first time at it. I used all Engine Builder parts and his parts are great. What failed was not EB fault.

There are others that have rebuilt their own motors and did everything right and it failed on them. There is always a chance you can get a bad motor. Others have built them and know exactly what was done and have great luck with them.

Things I would consider how much time you have to build it, and your skill set. I like A1 Engines and I do like Engine Builders parts.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Price for performance motor seems low. And numbers from dyno don't match cam power curve.

I say caution...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Myself I would buy local if at all possible.

Trying to warranty a engine that came from 2500 miles away is a real pain

Some companies the warranty fine print allows them to blame every thing on the installer. Then the other good one is ship the engine back for inspection on your dime.

Now they have both the engine and your money and tell you inspection reveals end user damage warranty claim denied but for $999.00 plus shipping they can repair the engine and return it .

At this point your already at 6 weeks.

I was involved in a few of these over the years.

nordicwargod

Yup, I was thinking that too. Specs on the cam are almost the same as engnblder's 261 crawler specs. It has almost same lift and duration but a little more overlap. You don't get much if anymore top end with those specs, but more lower end torque. Seems like an exaggerated claim but even with that said its a great deal.
For me this place would be good to check out because its close. [about two hours] Which is the point, buying an engine from a shop 1500 miles away is a bad idea and simply risky. Lots of shops out there that put out great products, lots of shady one's too.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

I agree with wyoming9. Buy a long block from a somewhat local shop if you plan on keeping the truck for a while. If you go the rebuild way engbldr.com and LC engineering would be where I get the parts from. Spending more money on a good long block or rebuild up front will save lots of time money down the road to re do it again.

Iceman4193

I have not found anything in the local area. I only really know to check craigslist and ebay other than that I am not sure places to check locally. The only thing I like about ebay is it is an extra layer of protection. If they do send a piece of crap, you are protected through Ebay policy which is nice.

nordicwargod

These engines are almost as popular as small block Chevy's. Where are you at? There have to be at least 25 places that sell these withing 100 miles in my area.
Check out machine shops in your area too!
I still think a short block with a new head,valves, etc would be best in the long run.

Janos01

All very good points guys. I personally would recommend that you either buy local or have a local shop that is known for rebuilding engines do the work. I had my 3VZE on my 90 4runner rebuilt top & bottom. Was about 4200 total. Runs great and I got to put some good headers on as well.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Short blocks are only bottom end. If you go short block make sure timing chain cover is machined to block. Might wind up with a head gasket problem. I went with a cheap short block and head once. Had connecting rod issues after getting into a hairy situation after off road where i kept engine close to redline on a hill climb. I bought my last engine from sunwest outside of spokane, WA. Was a performance build and very pleased. Been running it since 2008, minus three years out of country. Shipping to a commercial address is cheaper.

JoeSailor

Have a look at DOA: http://doaracingengines.com/ They are good for about 150 hp from a 22RE. I've got about 180K miles on mine so far and it still runs great. I did get the long block though which comes with significant porting.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

DOA makes a stroker motor too, one BA 22re. Suppose to have great torque. Had a chance to buy one off a classified could kick myself for missing that one.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

I've heard both good and bad things about DOA engines, but have no personal experience with them. I just don't understand why you would want to name your engine rebuilding company, DOA.

Iceman4193

I live in Port Saint Lucie, FL. Not sure where to look for local places selling long blocks but I would prefer to but the entire long block so I know it is all assembled correctly.
I could get a salvage long black and have it machined, but if it is coming out to around the price of a long block anyway. Why not just get the long block?

nordicwargod

There are a lot of machine shops just north of you, probably more cnc high tech shops than anywhere else in Fla. Start calling some of the machine shops in your area and ask about who builds what? Get some recommendations and start looking. Not much on craigslist in your area, probably have to go down around Miami to find a lot of used stuff.
I prefer to do a short block and then buy a new head, with new valves, with a cam I want, with a head gasket I want.... You should be able to get a good short block with all the work done for $750 within 100 miles or so, either your old block done or a manufactured one with yours turned in for core. Then I would get an engnblder head with o/s valves and their 261 crawler cam delivered for $550. Another $200 or so for new head bolts, and other misc and you still come in shy of 2 grand. And you won't have a piece of crap.
I wish I would have done it this way my fist time.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Solid advice. When I did a short block it didn't come with timing cover which should be machined to block height.

Iceman4193

Thanks for the advice man.
Question though, I'm not looking for high performance. Mainly durability and fuel economy because I do long distance driving.
Would the O/S and Cam have a big effect on the fuel consumption?
Do I need O/B Pistons for the valves and the cam?

nordicwargod

OS valves would only be another $100 and same with the cam. Not much more than stock. Some report getting better mileage with this particular cam and sometimes extra torque comes in real handy.
I used stock pistons with my cam.
The reason I suggested assembling the top end yourself is that its easy to go cheap on parts [many assembly line shops do] Those engines for $1k to $1200 have to be just slapped together with the cheapest chinese parts. There are some real crappy heads on ebay for $200 delivered.
For durability it needs to be put together correctly. Buy local from a good shop. Do some asking at parts stores and any mechanics you may know.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I have a local guy do the machine work. Got all the good stuff and then bored & honed to match. Cost the same as an ebay reman and I have a very good engine.

endldr for the master kit, Delta cams for a regrind, reused my my with new exhaust valves & saved the intakes.

You really just need to get involved in the process and you get a good reliable engine at a proper price.